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Stripped exhaust stud *UPDATE*


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A few days ago I posted seeking advice for stripped threads in the head of my ea82 for the header studs. I was coming to terms with the fact that I was going to have to buy a helicoil set, do some drilling, and tapping then install the helicoil etc. etc. Honestly, I was intimidated by this repair because I have no experience with this type of work and I could just picture myself screwing up with catastrophic results.

 

Gloyale chimed in with a suggestion on tapping the existing hole with a 7/16-14 tap and install a 7/16 stud in the newly tapped hole. Not only did it worked like a charm but it saved me some coin and no drilling! So, if this ever happens to you and you have a 7/16-14 tap on hand save your money on helicoils they are not needed. This job took me a little more than hour to tap both of the holes, install the studs, and reattach the exhaust (Including 2 trips to the parts store because I forgot to buy new gaskets.)

 

Thanks again Gloyale for that tip!

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Yep.

 

Either 7/16"-14 or 7/16"-20 tap will go right into the stripped thread hole, no drilling needed.

 

Doing this will get one by for a long time, and leaves plenty of "meat" around the stripped hole to do a proper Heli-Coil/ Timesert repair when that time comes.

 

Is especially easy to do on Subaru engines what have the spacer for the ASV tubes, as you only really need to tap that spacer, not the hole in the head.

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WISH I would have asked that question.............This place is like GOOGLE for Subaru's!!!! I used the opposing holes in the head on my ea 82 and had to have my exhaust cut and welded to match(I was getting new exhaust anyway) but it sucks now to get to that one nut!!! :banghead: I LOVE USMB!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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I would try running it until it gets to normal operating temp, then try turning it with vise grips.

 

Or if you have an oxyacetylene torch, and know how long to use it....

 

Not sure if I could do my TIG a jam nut or a washer to the end of the stud trick will work upside down.

 

Why these work is the heat expands and weakens the grip of the corrosion between the bolt / stud and the aluminum, so it is also key to do it while hot.  (after the glow from welding [in that case] fades)

 

Tapping on the broken piece with a small hammer after heating also may help break up / loosen the corrosion.

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