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BobBrumby

calling General Disorder: removing shifter slop

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On ur site it has pics of how u fixed the slop in your gear stick and i was wondering if i would have to drop my trannie to fix it?

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well I am not the big GD but I say NO dropy the trany. its all accesable from under the car. at least mine was cool like that.

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Well - no actually you don't. I happened to have mine out, and that made the picture easier to take, but I just did this mod to my brat not long ago without removing anything other than the console. It's a pain to work under there, but definately easier than removing the tranny. If you use an 8mm bolt it will slide right into the existing hole in the shaft with no drilling required. Also - while your in there it's a good idea to replace the nylon bushing on the bottom of the shifter. They are around $3 from the dealer.....

 

Also - for the record I wasn't the guy who invented this method, but I seem to have taken the best picture of it (that I have seen anyway)... hehe

 

GD

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So what do you have to do, if the hole is already there. Did you make the cut in the thing now bolted to the trannie. And what is holding it together in the first place?

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From the factory, it's a roll pin (two of them actually) and a cotter pin. Yes - you have to make the cut (on both sides), and them put in a bolt to clamp it down tight.

 

GD

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does this method only work on 4wd or will it work on a 2wd too, if so can you give me detailed instructions on how to do this because mine has real sloppy shifting, also the syncros are going soon.

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Strangely enough, all the ones I've pulled apart the rod was worn, but not the shifter! Sucks because to replace the rod requires dissasembly of the trans. When I did the one on my wagon with the trans out of the car, I drilled both out to 3/8" and bolted it with a SS bolt (this is the one in the picture). That one is INSANELY tight now. Almost no play at all. The one in my Brat I just used an 8mm bolt, and it's also tight, but not quite as good as the wagon. Both are 500% better than what it was tho. I would just do the 8mm bolt unless you have a small right angle drill that can chuck up a 9mm or larger bit and fit in under the car.... you could take the driveline out (just four bolts, but lookout for the trans fluidif you do), and drop the transmission cross-member and that might give you enough room to get a small drill in there..... I wouldn't bother tho. 8mm is just fine, and most of the tightness comes from the slots, and the clamping effect that gives you.

 

GD

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yeh sweet ill giv it a go this weekend probably

 

i assume the shifter is pretty easy to get out from the top to make the cut?

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Yeah - once you get the roll pins out, it's just one bolt, and she'll pop right out.... done forget the nylon bushing on the bottom of it tho. Its snaps on, and they wear out. Would be a good time to replace this $3 part.

 

GD

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I've been looking at this pic and can't seem to figure it out.... are the braces something you have to make.. or are you replacing the spring pin only???

Pls advise, as my shifter is so sloppy i can hardly shift and I am desperte to try any mods needed..

Thx

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Braces? I don't follow you. Please explain.

 

There are NO parts required other than an 8mm bolt and nut with some washers, and the nylon bushing if you need to replace it.

 

This works ONLY on 4 speed 4WD transmissions from the Gen 2 cars (and the 81 GL Brat).

 

GD

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how hard are the bushings to replace, is it something that you can do with out pullling out the trans, and can you give me any advice about my bad synchros? thanks

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yeh it easy as get it the gear stick out (one bolt) after you get the rubber thingy unscrewed and you can do it from easily from top.

 

GD i got a question: Is the hole at the pivit point in the gear stick meant to be heaps bigger then the shank on the bolt that goes thru it?

 

Cause this is where all the "up and down sloppiness" in mine comes from. And where you said there would be a split pin the is a bolt but i supose the previous owner didnot cut it when he did it.

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That pivot point is where the nylon bushing goes - it snaps to the bottom of the "pivot", and fits snugly into the little pocket built into the trans. There is actually two nylon bits in there - one on the shifter, and one inside the pocket - sort of a sleeve.... I've never had to replace that sleeve, but if it were toast or missing..... have to have the dealer look that one up.......

 

Or are you talking about the rubber and nylon bits on the shackle that connects the shift rod with the stick? Only thing I've ever done with that is tighten the HELL out of it. I suppose one could get new bushings and rubber for it, but tightening it up is usually all it takes.... The hole IS heaps bigger if you don't have the rubber in there like you should..... maybe you have a broken rubber? :lol: Or did you just forget your rubber? :drunk:

 

As for the bolt, yeah the previous owner did that probably. The stock setup is two roll pins - one inside the other (no clue why this was done?!?), held in by a special cotter pin with a flange on one end.... weird little guy. Anyway - just chuck all that junk and get an 8mm bolt for that part...

 

The 2WD ones - yeah, you can replace them by pulling up the console. Not hard at all. As for syncro's, you can try some redline gear oil - it helps some people.... but the only real fix is a new (used) or rebuilt tranny. Once they go, they are history as they are made from brass.

 

GD

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yeh the last person to try and fix it lost the metel innner sleeve from the shift rod that sits inside the nylon/rubber bushes (where it bolts to the shackle), lucky i had another shifter wif one under my house.

 

i bought the bottom nylon thing that sits in the hole in the trannie but its rubber, not biggie.

 

should be cuttin the shackle tomoro and if all goes ill have a tight gearbox by night fall :brow: .

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