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83 GL10 Rupert

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I welcomed a new member to the family last night. Rupert is a 1983 GL10 FWD 5-Speed.

 

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I adopted it from mechanical_misfit and am grateful to have a new project. 

 

What needs to be done:

 

Needs Engine repaired, bent push rod, need to dig further to see if more needs to be done with engine (looking to buy a complete one for now).

 

hwasxBS.jpg

 

I took the hitachi off the manifold last night. The emissions junk was full of soot, what a waste of tubes, plastic gadgets and HP. Needless to say I am going to be trying the hitachi simplification. I now have two hitachi's, so I may take them both apart and use the best from both. 

 

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Needs radiator, electronic dash (i may be able to fix that one) and Fuel Pump controller.

 

What would you do to it if this was yours? 

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  • I'm not sure who to quote on this extensive thread(s), so I'll start here.   The car was purchased from us in April, but I never heard anything back from him until July 29th.  After checking with th

  • 1600 pistons ARE EA71 pistons. 

  • Loyale 2.7 Turbo
    Loyale 2.7 Turbo

    Awesome Wagon!    it is a shame that the Engine blew, what happened?         He is also here @ USMB, with same user name than AUSubaru: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/user/52562-willy

Is this the wagon that had the CCR EA81 in it? Thats a pretty clean example for sure. Nice snag. Hopefully these Midwest winters won't get the better of this one.

 

Good luck with the Hitachi. They work pretty good once all cleaned up and rebuilt, minus all the emissions feedback junk. I guess there is also more you can do if you have an EA71 Hitachi and EA81 Hitachi and combine them both. One of the Aussie guys on Facebook (Gerard Kleyn) knows whats involved with doing this setup. Perhaps give him a holler.

 

https://www.facebook.com/gerard.kleyn?fref=ts

 

If this were mine, I would clean it up, get it running nice, and drive the hell outta it in the summer. Store it in the winter and keep it for the next 30yrs :) Perhaps sometime, go with some type of 14" peugeot wheel, or redrill to 6x139 and have any choice of 6-lug wheel you want. It will be easier to get tires in the future. Although, those Alloy honeycomb wheels are pretty nice, Hang onto those for sure!

 

Redrill write-up, if you ever get the inch to do it.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/128105-offcial-6-lug-re-drill-thread/?do=findComment&comment=1087335

  • Author

Is this the wagon that had the CCR EA81 in it? 

 

I know it was picked up in Colorado with some custom engine work, unfortunately the engine blew on the way back to Michigan. It's partially torn apart, with a bent pushrod right now. It might be even worse once the engine is torn apart. That will be a new adventure for me. I'm going to see if I can snag an already operational EA81 to put in it for now. 

 

I ordered a weber tonight, have one in my Brat and am very happy with it. I will be selling the 2 hitachi's that I currently have, for cash to get Rupert up and running. 

 

I think a 6 lug conversation is a must for both of my cars! 

Awesome Wagon! 

 

it is a shame that the Engine blew, what happened?

 

 

... One of the Aussie guys on Facebook (Gerard Kleyn) knows whats involved with doing this setup. Perhaps give him a holler.
 
https://www.facebook.com/gerard.kleyn?fref=ts ...

 

 

He is also here @ USMB, with same user name than AUSubaru:

~►
 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/user/52562-willy-fisterbottom/

Kind Regards.

  • Author

Awesome Wagon! 

 

it is a shame that the Engine blew, what happened?

 

Thanks!

 

I am not sure what happened to the engine, Mechanical_misfits said it lost compression on his way back, was running really well before that. He tore it apart and found a bent push rod, but had not had a chance to dig further into the engine. If it's an easy fix I may just tear into it. I need to ask him again what happened and see if anyone here will know more about the issue. I have never ripped an engine apart before, but "now" is a good time to start. 

I remember James contacted CCR about it, but got shrugged off. I'm kinda curious what else happened. A Pushrod doesn't just bend.

 

As for the Weber, did you get a genuine one (Not one of the knock off ones maid in Spain) I agree the Weber is a good option, simple and makes good power. I got mine to make a maximum of 23psi of absolute vacuum. Works perfect!

 

Keen to see more about this car :)

  • Author

I remember James contacted CCR about it, but got shrugged off. I'm kinda curious what else happened. A Pushrod doesn't just bend.

 

That's kind of what I was afraid of, which is why I am thinking of picking up a new EA81 for now, I have two cars with EA81's so a backup engine is not a bad thing to have :) 

 

I bought a weber on ebay, true weber. It's a manual choke but if I don't like it, I got it for cheap enough that I can sell it and buy a new one if desired. 

 

I will be posting pics for sure, the house I am buying has a garage, so shenanigans will be had!

Maybe that EA81 ran out of oil, due to a clogged passage?

 

 

... As for the Weber, did you get a genuine one (Not one of the knock off ones maid in Spain) ...

 
Dear Thomas,

The "Made in Spain" ones are Not knok off, they're Genuine ones,
 
because the original factory on italy has been under Legal problems,
 
they moved to Spain the Production... but are Genuine.

The Knock off are the ones made in China. Sorry...
 

~► https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Weber_carburetor
 
~► http://www.clutchkitcenter.com/media/images/weber/comparison.jpg
 
~► http://genuineweber.blogspot.com/
 
Kind Regards.

I have a couple of the ones made in italy and they work great along with some of the older spains. I have a ea81 with 150k on it where someone floated the valves on it and bent 2 push rods and broke one. I think they revved the piss out of it. I thought the broken one was the only problem so i put a unbent one in and drove it around on the farm. Had lots of power and ran great.  Just had a blown head gasket and those other two bent push rods otherwise no problems.

  • Author

What causes Valve float?

 

He did say that the valve was really stiff on 4, which is the one that had the bent rod, so it could have been from that. 

What causes Valve float? ...

 

On daily use, usually deep acceleration to Redline.

 

 

... He did say that the valve was really stiff on 4, which is the one that had the bent rod, so it could have been from that.

 

In that case, it worth to contact the Engine's rebuilders (CCR) and ask them to check it.

 

Maybe some part was not installed as it meant to be, or the bolts got overtorqued.

 

Kind Regards.

  • Author

In that case, it worth to contact the Engine's rebuilders (CCR) and ask them to check it.

 

Maybe some part was not installed as it meant to be, or the bolts got overtorqued.

 

Thanks!

 

CCR is in Colorado and I am in Michigan, unfortunately they will not be able to look a the engine. I wonder if they have record of what they used, by the sounds of it the engine has had a lot of custom work done to it, which makes me worried that the custom job is not gelling well with the other components. 

What causes Valve float?

 

He did say that the valve was really stiff on 4, which is the one that had the bent rod, so it could have been from that. 

Redlining the rpms of the engine.  The wagon didn't have a tac gauge so i'm sure he took each gear as fast as it could go from Eugene to Portland.  where the push rod broke in half. It was backfiring through the carb because the #4 exhaust couldn't open.

  • Author

Hmm, interesting, I don't think the tac was working on this car either, although Mechanical_misfits is a very knowledgable car guy, I can't imagine he would have been revving to high, although if there is no tac and it's a new car, it's completely possible. 

 

I'm probably picking up the engine form him this weekend, to tear apart a little more. what else should i check for damage before replacing the bent rod? 

 

Thanks for the input.

Edited by MDW

Valve float, caused from extremely high RPMs and weak valve springs.

 

  • Author

I actually watched this video a few minutes ago, it is mesmerizing! I am going to snag the engine, and see what I can find out. I will probably have a million questions. 

  • Author

I wanted to like that, but I have used up all my likes, oops  :drunk:

  • Author

Have been tearing into random things like some kind of OCD freak, I am in the underwriting process of buying a house and will be moving in about 3 weeks. Kind of hoping to get this bad lad on the road, so I don't have to tow it 40 miles. Can it be done? I hope so. 

 

I tore into the Manifold, ripping off the emissions spoob! Have a Weber in the mail, should be to me on wednesday, will have to probably clean up, rejet etc. 

 

Where do I find the plugs for the now vacant holes, for the Thermal Vacum Valve II (19), the EGR Pipe (9) and the Thermosensor (6)? 

 

3mYNUCV.png

 

Manifold cleaned up, ready for a bath

 

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I also took a few things out of the engine compartment today, mostly emissions junk and took out the secondary fuel filter, since I will be running a weber, it looks new if anyone needs one, let me know! 

 

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I am not sold on keeping the AC unit at this time. The temperature is hot enough for AC for maybe 2 weeks a year here, and I have never used it in my life. I just don't care for AC and I know I could sell it to someone who would really like to have it, and have a little more money to put into this project. 

 

Can I remove the AC without loosing charge? in one piece? 

 

I am a minimalist, less that can go wrong. 

 

Thoughts. 

 

Heading out to my companies warehouse to work on the engine, I made a new thread for that here:

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/155289-ea81-bent-pushrods/

 

Have a great Sunday everyone,

Michael 

  • Author

Also major thanks to Tom Rhere for hooking me up with the FSM! 

... Where do I find the plugs for the now vacant holes ...? ...

 

Usually our Local NAPA store sells rubber Caps in 3/16"

 

which works great for those unused vacuum ports,

 

But also you can find online, sets like this:

 

~► http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dorman-Vacuum-Caps-Rubber-Kit-/331366274810

 

 

... I am a minimalist, less that can go wrong ...

 

Exactly my way of Thinking.

 

Kind Regards.

If you need to plug the EGR pipe hole thats in the Head and in the Intake. Brass plugs from Menards or Homedepot will work perfect. Thats what I put on mine.

 

I'll look into my thread and see what Size I used. Also, use some thread sealant.

As for removing the A/C system without loosing charge. Nope. No matter what, you will have to disconnect the lines which run into the Firewall.

Edited by TheLoyale

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