Looking at this for my sister:

 

2003 Subaru Outback H6-3.0 AWD automatic, new inspection,leather interior,6 cd changer,sunroof,remote keyless entry,132k, drive excellent,alloy wheels,$3750 call 

 

Is there anything special that I should look for with this engine? 

 

I currently have a 2005 2.5 and I figure this engine is diffrent as far as issues they might have since the h6 is a timing chain engine. 

 

I have talked him down to 2,750 sight unseen,  but before I even go I wanted to check here with you guys for any issues I should be looking for. 

 

Thanks

look in the fuse box under the hood, make certain there is NO fuse in the FWD slot.

make sure all 4 tires are the same model and wear-level

 

make certain you see the CEL 'tested' just before you go from ON to start.

 

drive the car in tight circles on dry hard pavement - it should idle, or maybe just above idle - thru the turns with no jerking/bucking.

 

check the sticky threads here for the most common issues;   http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/

Edited May 17, 20169 yr by 1 Lucky Texan

they're pretty simple.  for that price i wouldnt' look for much more than headgaskets and general condition - how much maintenance it would need for the next 100k:  plugs, VCG's, axle boots, brakes, rusty exhaust, basic stuff. 

 

some don't have a FWD fuse - like VDC H6's of the era.  i don't think VTD equipped vehicles have a FWD fuse.  if not, those really dont' develop torque bind, so i've been told, and i've never seen it happen anyway. 

 

headgaskets - look for signs of overheating - the H6's are very sneaky when they first start to fail. they can go months between overheating episodes and initial failures may only show themselves under very specific conditions (a/c on, interstate travel, idling, etc).

 

i consider the seller the most important part of the equation: dealer, private owner, and how long have they owned the vehicle.

 

H6's are more prone to getting traded in/sent to auction/sold - so presumably a higher percent of for-sale H6's have headgasket issues than those on the road.  i prefer private sellers who have had the car awhile. 

 

look for signs of cooling system work - hoses, tstat, caps, clamps, brand new coolant, overflow tank condition.  anything out of the ordinary there suggests someone was chasing something - maybe overheating, maybe something benign. 

 

signs of coolant splatter/spilling around the radiator cap, battery tray and that front drivers side corner of the vehicle. 

 

let it idle a long time with the A/C on high.  while it's idling look in the coolant overflow for bubbles (NOT the radiator while it's hot).  bubbles = bad. 

interstate travel would be ideal. 

look for overheating during idling/interstate. 

a radiator coolant level check before starting it and after cooling down after the test drive would be a good check but time consuming and cumbersome.11

Great price! If it wasn't a sedan, I might have to race you to it

^+1

 

And listen for noise @ front of engine. the H6 has the chain but the chain guides do wear (out) and start to

'rattle' (google it). It's not the 'death knell' of rod knock, and the car may run for 10's of thousands of miles just fine, but personally...I don't like noises.

 

And yeah...$2750 is a steal - unless its middle name is 'Rusty'.

Floor it on the interstate to check for chain noise under load. Good point, Most people wouldn't want to get into a car with engine noises.

 

Chain noise is rare and I think only the early years like 01 and maybe 02. It is also benign and I don't think any damage or issue has ever occurred because of it. So if you're a gambler type you might pint out the noise and offer another $500 less LOL

Floor it on the interstate to check for chain noise under load. Good point, Most people wouldn't want to get into a car with engine noises.

 

Chain noise is rare and I think only the early years like 01 and maybe 02. It is also benign and I don't think any damage or issue has ever occurred because of it. So if you're a gambler type you might pint out the noise and offer another $500 less LOL

On this engine, it's not the chains themselves that go bad: it's the tensioners due to lack of regular oil changes.  They are lubricated by the engine oil and if they fail, the engine is toast.

 

I bought one with a known overheat issue for more than this (but gorgeous otherwise), we rebuilt the engine and I drove it for years until 2 spine surgeries made it hard for me to get into it.  Honestly, at $2750, you can hardly go wrong.

 

Emily