Is this keyway salvagable with the Loctite 660 repair? Mechanic tells me I need new engine ej25d for my 97 Outback. I am stranded 8 hours from home (in iceland) and can not afford a new engine. Mechanic also says pulling the crankshaft and sending to a Tig welder will cost more than engine swap. Please see picture and chime in.

Thanks,

Hval

A new key and 140 ftlbs of torque on the bolt and you should be fine.

I have had a good welder weld the key in with the crank in.  Still working fine years later.  It was on a 95 2.2.

There is also a repair that uses roll pins to pin the damper to the crank gear.

 

Good luck.

Larry

had same problem prolly 15 years back. Was told the same nonsense that motor would have to be replaced. Not true, don't iknow how shop exactly repaired it, but remember they did use Locktite to prevent it coming apart again. Never had any trouble with the issue after that.

Yep, I put a new key and used crank pulley on, and overtorqued the bolt, and drove it for years. The key should not have any load on it while the engine is turning, it's just there to align things during assembly.

mine is up there around 150 ftlbs on it ever since it came off one night driving home. im pretty sure its not going anywhere again. is been a year since i cranked mine on.

This is easy, file the crank smooth and bolt the pulley on.

 

You don't even need a key. Just overtorque it and you're fine It's steel threads not aluminum.

 

I've done it a bunch of times on subarus without a key over the last 15 or more years, no big deal. As he said the key literally does nothing but align which in this case doesn't matter, it's not load bearing. If the pulley bolt isn't tight enough it's gonna back out regardless of having a key or not.

 

I'll bet the mechanic $500 that I'm right. But only if we use a third party escrow because I know I'll win.

Why does everyone spend time on the key, I've never understood that on newer engines you can't even time like older gen stuff?

 

If the pulley is really hogged up the pulley may not seat flush, get another pulley and smooth off the crank. Again, easy.

 

Unless it's reaaaaly bad the current pulley should get you back home though. Carry an extra belt. Lol

You guys rock! I will insist that the mechanic tries to loctite the woodruff and slightly over torque to 150 ft/lbs. thank you all for responding so quick.

Edited June 13, 20169 yr by Hvalreki

I hope you guys are right, I'm going to try Loctite 242 and smokin' that bolt on there really tight and get on with the rest of my life.

A good welder can weld that and file it back while in the car,

I hope you guys are right, I'm going to try Loctite 242 and smokin' that bolt on there really tight and get on with the rest of my life.

 

Granted I've done a bunch and can't give a clear torque value except "3 foot pipe over the socket wrench and crank it on" - but otherwise there's no hope needed, it's easy to get locktite and a key to work when they aren't even needed to begin with. 

 

3 foot pipe - crank it on, it's not coming off.  Steel crank and bolt, you're not going to strip it unless you try.  Even without a key, they won't come off. 

 

I've also filed down and repaired cranks before, but if it's my car it's not worth the time or much worry.