Skip to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

Ultimate Subaru Message Board

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.

1984 Subaru digital instrument panel

Featured Replies

We need to find a working digital instrument panel for our 1984 Subaru 2-door hardtop.  The factory labeled the little car as a "Hardtop".  I don't know which other models might interchange.  This car has turbo with 1800 single cam engine but we could possibly work with any 1984 digital instrument panel and may nont require an instrument panel particularly from a "turbo" car.  Any lead would be appreciated. 

Good luck.

They never were very reliable.

I think almost all quit working some time ago.

Some folks swap in analog ones,but,it is a pain.

They made a few that worked.... it seems to be like the clocks in GLs & loyales. Out of about 7, only one worked long term. I came up with a mod that fixes most of them permanently. I don't know if the digital dash had the same kind of silly design compromises that the clocks had, or if whatever fails is more complicated.

The majority of clock failures is due to the choice of main power regulator. THE clock circuit runs on 5v. THE 3 most practical ways to get 5v from 12 are switching regulator, pass transistor regulator, zener regulator. These are listed by order , highest to lowest. Cost, efficiency, complexity.

 

They chose the cheapest simplest and least efficient one. SO it has to cook away a watt or 2 of heat. In a small enclosed box. THAT is installed in a closed space, dashboard, where the ambient temperature can get over 140 degrees. The resistor that drops most of the voltage as waste heat gets so hot that it causes the solder on its leads to corrode and the connections fail. A linear pass transistor regulator would have to dissipate roughly half the power that the zener regulator does. Even back then, those were cheap and common. Side note, a switcher was not a financially practical choice back then.

 

There is one other feature of the clock design that can be improved also. BY adding a diode and capacitor to the keep alive power feed, the clock doesn't forget the time when starting the car like it did a few times per year, before I added them. They actually had no filter on that line to smooth over momentary voltage dips.

Interesting analysis DaveT, I'm not an EE by trade, so don't have the knowledge base to triage the failed dashes I've come across.  This may help my friends who are helping me with this project, so thanks!

 

Do you think a similar phenomena is the reason for the EA81-digidash failures?

It would be the first thing I would try to trace out. I have never run a car with a digital dash, so I don't know what the fail looks like.

 

When I can't get a schematic of something, I just start drawing out the schematic from the actual circuit. As long as it isn't potted, or using custom ICs, it is just patient / puzzle. Then redraw so it makes sense.

Wait I take that back. A couple months ago the numbers glitched out, but its back to normal now.

  • 10 months later...

I know this is old but do you still have a working digital cluster?. I have a 83 gl-10 wagon non turbo

Thanks

I have a working (when I pulled it) digital dash out of a 89' GL Turbo. 

Pulled it about 3 years ago

If interested

I have a working (when I pulled it) digital dash out of a 89' GL Turbo.

Pulled it about 3 years ago

If interested

does it matter that 89 would be an EA82, his 83 is an EA81?

I know this is old but do you still have a working digital cluster?. I have a 83 gl-10 wagon non turbo

Thanks

 

does the dash beep?  if so the dash may not be the issue. 

 

they are very sensitive to input voltage, so a weak alternator or electrical system can cause them to enter a safe mode and not turn on.  id double check your input voltage before replacing.  I don't know exact specifics, I just had to research it once.  the info is here so do some searching.

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in

Sign In Now

Account

Navigation

Search

Search

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.