96 Subaru Legacy wagon 4WD ABS. 

 

Brakes stop - straight line - abs has not worked from day one that we bought used Subby - but you really have to push down hard and hold and they certainly don't stop on a dime. Looks like the master cylinder was replaced - fluid is also clean - possibly replaced. All new brake pads replaced by me 2 weeks ago all the way around. Cleaned a ton of rust built up around the right front caliper - at path where pads move. Haven't had a chance to check/clean other calipers yet. Two front caliper bleeders are just about down to a nub - rusted away - I ordered a couple of front calipers refurb from Rockauto should be here by the weekend - will replace front two and bleed - then take a look at back calipers and hopefully bleeders are in good enough shape to break open. 

 

I've done bleeding probably on ten cars over the years - never a Subaru - assume nothing special - any DIY advice guys? I have my son pump the pedal - then hold it down break bleeder open - and repeat until no air. Do you think I should also bleed master - first, then the calipers - any particular order? Etc. 

 

Thanks, 

 

Milty 

 Nothing unusual about them. They will practically gravity bleed themselves given enough time. If the master cyl.  had air you would not be getting a hard pedal. I have never used a special order on bleeding although i'm sure that there is one.

I've seen at least 2 bleed orders listed, personally, I do farthest to closest.

 

I use a one-man helper gadget - a hose with a valve in it. Document clip to hold to rim of clear plastic container. I set it on top of a small box so the tubing isn't so long.

 

I put a chunk of wood under the pedal so I don't go to the floor - some folks warn against that.

 

DO NOT FORGET to remove the wood chunk before flight!

Edited November 7, 20178 yr by 1 Lucky Texan

Hard pedal.. is the vacuum booster working ?

I've used a Motive Brake Bleeder. You can do it by yourself and it gets all the air out. It's great but also $70. Me and a buddy went in on it.

1+ on Motive Brake Bleeder.  I've been using one for years to flush Subaru brake systems that have been ignored for years.

I just did a brake bleed on Monday. I made a one man brake bleeder out of a water bottle and some clear hose. I started at the right rear. Went to left rear. To right front. To left front. I had a helper. So I was able to see the fluid at the bleeder to make sure it was coming out clear and no air bubbles. Just make sure the master cylinder doesn't go dry. Hope this helps.

Thanks for all the advice. Pedal to me seems hard not spongy but I want to bleed brakes as a starting point - vacuum is working. Interesting, never heard of block of wood to prevent pedal travel to floor - I assume this is to still have travel gap to floor to ensure brakes grab before pedal bottoms out? 

 

...Milty  

from what I've read, the fear is moving the MC seals over some debris or corrosion located where there is usually no travel - and tearing the seals.

 

probably more of a concern on old and/or neglected vehicles.

After years of doing the two person bleeder routine I broke down and spent $35 on a vacuum bleeder at Advance Auto.   Once I learned to use it I kick myself in the butt for not doing this years ago.  

 

Basically I flush brake fluid every two years as a preventive maintenance whenever I do a brake inspection.   Its more time consuming but in the process I know my calipers are function properly and all the gunky stuff and moisture is out of the piston chambers.   Assuming you are going in with new pads when you change calipers, and everything glides on the frame, and you know the calipers are moving....if after all that you still have little brake grip I'd be looking at vacuum leaks as @montanna tom has suggested. 

 

Jeff

Edited November 9, 20178 yr by robertjem