monkeyposeur

I've used a Motive Brake Bleeder. You can do it by yourself and it gets all the air out. It's great but also $70. Me and a buddy went in on it.

Probably the o-ring under the power steering reservoir is old and leaking. They're a couple bucks at the dealership and easy to repalce.

Hmm, I'm not quite sure I am understanding what you are saying. Are you saying to cut the solenoid wiring going into the transmission. measure the resistance of the wire, and then splice it back together?

Cool! I'm not on FB but I'll try and get in touch with that Ben dude! My buddy said he found a guy in Australia that would find me one. Wonder if it's the same guy. Weren't you looking for some 22T pistons a while back on bbs? I have a set that I might toss soon.

No problem! If it is indeed a 22t turbo swapped car and the block is seized you could swap in an EJ205 shortblock from a USDM wrx, a JDM EJ20G shortblock, a JDM EJ20g longblock, and all could be run with the stock 22T ecu. To swap the turbo bits onto your 86 GL would require the oil return line mod I mentioned, running a coolant line and oil feed line to the turbo, a top mount intercooler or front mount, notching the engine crossmember for the turbo downpipe, a modified exhuast from the downpipe, a rising rate fuel pressure regulator, and only run 4-6 psi boost to be safe. Most turbo swaps like I just described work well in 90-94 first gen legacies, or some 95-96ish outback legacies or GCs.

I'm confused. None of the models you listed are a first gen turbo model. The LSi is an na vehicle. The Turbo Legacy is the SS. The turbo and na 22 blocks are different but share the same bore size, crank, and rods. The turbo 22ts are closed deck and about 8.5:1 compression with different pistons. The 22e blocks are open deck and have higher compression. The 22t heads have slightly smaller valves and a return line for oil from the turbo. They can be interchanged. The turbo return line component can be swapped from the 22t heads to the na heads, or one can plumb a line. The 22t valve covers have two breather ports and the na heads only have one. the 95 ej22 is the same as the 90-94 ej22 as far as the long block goes. Cam and crank sensors are also the same. NA and turbo ECUs are different. If you found a boost sensor on the 95, then you must be looking at a JDM wiring diagram since the only turbo legacies were available in the US from 90-94.

I just looked through your thread! Awesome job! A brat restoration is one of my dream projects.

I'm confident that if I pulled the pan I could do it right. I've build a few shortblocks and swapped engines and trannies, etc. Thanks for the info. I was wondering the the ecu had to communicate with the tcu or if they were independent. So it seems like the only way to get a phase 2 to work properly would be to do a complete wiring harness merge and engine/tranny swap. I was looking into doing that but I have since decided to go with a RobTune ecu.

OK, If I get some extra time I'll think about dropping the pan. I know it won't be a big deal although some report issues getting the pan to seal. I just replaced the steering rack, tie rod ends, oil pan, power steering lines, duty-c solenoid, did three drain and fills so I'm a bit tired of being underneath the car for a while at least. Most of what I have read on bbslegacycentral says not to bother with replacing the internal filter but I'll definitely keep it in mind.

Yeah, it's a good tranny. I just like to plan ahead since I want to keep the SS forever. A few strange issues have occurred with it though. There is a rattling type noise coming from the front of the bellhousing, where the torque converter is located. It goes away at higher rpms though. It's not a loose heat shield either. It isn't causing a problem but I don't like it and have no idea what it is. The other problem is the Duty-C solenoid code was flashing. I dropped the tailhousing and replaced the duty-c with a superseded part from Subaru. The torque bind and flashing went away for about two hours and came back. That pissed me off a little since replacing the duty-c is kind of a big job. I did all the FSM diagnostic procedures which indicated a faulty TCU. I replaced the TCU with another turbo TCU of the same year from a working vehicle and got the same flashing and torque bind. I checked the resistors and transistors of the TCU and they were all within spec. So on a whim I swapped in an NA TCU and the flashing is gone as well as the torque bind. It has a slightly different shift pattern now, but I have the POWER mode wired up and with that it shifts pretty good, and at WOT I can run it up to the redline. I have done multiple drain and fills and the fluid is nice and clean. To replace the filter I would have to drop the transmission pan, and the generally don't clog up so I'm not going to mess with that. There isn't an exernal trans filter on my 4EAT like some later models. I am also trying to source a JDM VTD TCU for an EJ20G Auto trans since I can find low mileage JDM transmissions pretty easily, but the TCU is proving impossible to find. I am also installing a RobTune TCU soon so there will be a bump in hp and like I said, just in case it breaks down the line I want to know what options are available. I would rather just swap in a JDM 5MT but my wife drives the car and loves having an automatic even though she can drive a stick just fine.

The 4EAT in my 93 Turbo Legacy has 180k. It shifts great and works as it should but I am looking for options in case it shits the bed. I could swap in an NA Phase I Legacy 4EAT, but I want to know what else I could swap in. I am trying to find a JDM TCU so I can run a 20G VTD trans but can't locate a TCU (any help locating one would be awesome!!!). Does anyone have any info how to swap in a phase II 4EAT? I would imagine it would require swapping over the Phase II trans wiring at the very least. I Someone has to have done this, lol.

^If you use STi 257 2.5 heads you will also get the mushroom chamber. Thanks for the clarification though.

I measured the voltage with the solenoid connected. Since the solenoid is only accessible if you remove the tail housing I don't see how it would be practical to remove the tail housing to test the solenoid. The FSM protocol doesn't specify to remove the solenoid before measuring.

Thank you CNY_Dave. I found the thread you might be referring to: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/106396-fixing-a-fried-4eat-tcu-due-to-bad-duty-c/ I have more evidence that the TCU may be bad. I measured the voltage output of the TCU with the FWD fuse in and the accelerator pedal released and it was 11.9 V. This is in the specified voltage range of 8-14 V. The NA TCU output voltage is 11.4 V. However the output of the TCU with the FWD fuse removed and the pedal depressed is 10.2 V. The specified range is 0.5 V max. What is strange is the output of the TCU under the same measuring condition is 4.8 V. So both TCUs are out of range, but the Turbo TCU is a lot farther out of the range. My board shows no signs of damage like the board in the link above. I checked each of the transistors paying special attention to the transistor that is connected to pin 3, the duty C solenoid pin. They all read the same! So so far I have no indications that the transistor for pin 3 is in any way falty. The resistors measure in spec and I was able to follow the circuit all the way to one of the tiny black thingys on the back side. The black thingy looks like a small fet but I am not sure what kind of component it is. I found a local electronics repair guy and with some persuasion I might be able to get him to repair the board if it needs it, or at the very least diagnose the issue. He feels working on older TCUs is potentially dangerous and I can see why for liability reasons. I am also trying to figure out what JDM 20G transmissions may be compatible with the SS. There isn't a lot of information on them and I haven't come across any JDM wiring diagrams with which to compare to the SS 4EAT wiring. I am considering buying a complete 93ish JDM 20G 4EAT drivetrain and swapping that in next summer just to freshen things up. Although I would rather do a 02-03 WRX harness merge and build another 205/22T hybrid to modernize things a bit. Once I know more I'll update. But so far the NA TCU is working nicely so that's a success. Still looking for a replacement Turbo TCU. If anyone has a 93-94 4EAT Turbo Legacy TCU send me a PM.

I would try adjusting your cable that connects to the handle first. Sure it might be old but worth a shot.

Did you replace the MAF with a used one or new MAF? Used MAFs suck in my experience. Did you try cleaning yours? Try a new one. Next up would be a fuel pump. A walbro 255 lph would be a nice cheap upgrade.

Hybrids are a good way to go for sure. I get 350 whp out of my 22T/205 with a 20gxt on 91 oct @ 4250 ft. (03 WRX). The WRX swap/merge route is nice because you can actually tune the damn thing. But if you are just in it for fun you can get away with a lot. If you want to boost your 22E with your stock I would source some 22T heads. You can pick of a set for next to nothing on bbslegacycentral. I've thrown out three sets of 22T heads because no one ever wanted them. Or find some 22 dual ports. But if you don't care if anything blows up try the 25d heads. One of the problems with mating 2.5 heads to a 2.2 block is you end up with a mushroom like bore/combustion chamber combo which causes heat issues and detonation, but if you're running low boost it probably isn't a huge problem. 22Es are actually pretty solid blocks. The sleeves are thicker than 205 and 257 sleeves. The open deck isn't really an issue if you aren't going for mad HP.

I didn't see a link to a video in your post so I don't know what your sound is like. If its a squealing sound then it's the belt. If it's a lower pitched grinding noise then it is probably air getting into the system from a bad o ring connection in one of the lines, a bad seal between the reservoir and the pump, or a leak from one of the rubber hoses that joins the sections of hard lines. The lower pressure line has a clamp fitting which can go bad but be fixed with a good hose clamp. Are you getting any leaks anywhere? Are the boots of the steering rack torn? Power steering pumps can go bad but that is pretty rare. I just dissassembled one and there isn't too much that can go wrong on them mechanically unless they are run on a low amount of fluid. Have you tried going lock to lock with the power steering reservoir cap of to further bleed air out of the system? I wouldn't get too worried. Even if it is a blown steering rack it's not too bad of a job to replace it.

Update: After work I went to the junkyard to pull a TCU. The 93 Legacy w/90k I have been salvaging was gone. I was going to pull the moonroof assembly and motorized seatbelt assemblies and stash them away. From what I have read the 90-92 TCUs have different wiring than the 93-94s but I'm not 100% sure on that. Anyway I pulled a TCU from a 93 sedan with 4WD and then pulled a TCU from a sedan with FWD. They are different TCUs with different part numbers and the 4WD TCU is stamped 4WD and has the designation 'KY' in large letters. There are differences between the NA and Turbo TCUs although they can be interchanged. At first I assumed they would be the same but I poked around on bbslegacycentral before I installed the NA TCU. The main difference that was reported is that the NA TCU will go all the way to redline and bounce off the rev limiter at 7k, and exhibits different shift patterns and sometimes a rev hang. I had yet to check the TCU output voltage of the turbo ECU and I wanted to know how it functioned so I swapped it in. It takes about 10 minutes at the most. Remove kick panel and remove the two bolts that hold the TCU in place and swap in the new one. The TCU is a gold box so it's hard to miss, it's left of the steering column. Started the car and the 16 flashes were gone! Time for a test drive. I backed out of the driveway and did a tight slow turn and no more torque bind! Did some WOT pulls and it would sometimes go all the way to 7k in first gear. bounce off the rev limiter a bit and then shift. Not too big of a deal. I then switched to POWER mode and it would do the same thing. It wouldn't always rev to 7k though, but almost always if you just mashed the pedal and ran it out. I could get it to rev almost to 7k, blip the gas and get it to shift so it could be worked around if you are paying attention. Felt pretty good to run it to 7k for the first time, lol. After the test drive I tried to measure the output voltage from the turbo TCU and NA TCU but I was using my multimeter wrong. I think I know what I was doing wrong so I'll test it in the next day or two. So in the meantime the NA TCU is going to be a great fix. I am asking around for a turbo TCU so I should be able to find one sometime soon to swap back in. I then took apart the turbo TCU to see if there was anything visually wrong with the circuit board. I've done a bit of soldering and repair with RC helicopter boards so I kinda know if something looks wrong. Visually the board looked fine. No loose bits or burn marks. I'm going to do some research and figure out if there is any way I can diagnose and repair the TCU. Once I measure the TCU outputs and resistance of the wiring harness I will post what I get. I think that the original TCU was probably on it's last legs and since the Duty C solenoid is activating all the time that wears out the TCU components. And perhaps the solenoid actually went bad that taxed the components even further. I swear the duty C solenoid was working for the test drive after I installed it so maybe then the TCU just crapped out. Just a wild theory but I'd like to think that all that work wasn't for nothing. I guess we'll see how this plays out.

I have been asking about this issue on NASIOC and there is some good information about the wiring schematic: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=45292427#post45292427 I went out and did some more testing. I tested pin 4, same result as before. I tested pin 11. Nothing registered. I tested pin 4 & 11 again, and still nothing registered. Looking at the wiring diagram again I realized that the pinout of the transmission connector looked more like the female end that goes to the TCU. Was I reading it backwards??? Apparently yes! I checked the correct position of pin 4 and got .3 ohms! So the ground line is within the 1 ohm range. I then checked pin 4 & 11 and got 13.6 ohms, which is within the 9-15 ohm range! So the ground line is good, and so is the solenoid! If I followed the FSM flow chart I would have checked the TCU output signal first, but I figured it was easier to check the ground and solenoid first. According to the flow chart the TCU must be faulty. I'll pull the junkyard TCU tomorrow and see if it solves the problem. I'll probably check the output voltage of the current TCU and see what I get. Maybe the original duty C solenoid was good all along, or went bad and helped fry the TCU? I'll be able to answer the TCU question in a day or two. I hope it all works!!! At least I'm learning something.

Thanks for the link. Unfortunately the FSM contained in the link does not contain the transmission control system section that I need.

Car: USDM 93 SS Turbo Legacy 4EAT I had the 16 flashes, did the handshake and code indicated Duty C solenoid issue. I have slight torque bind at slow turns, with FWD fuse in place torque bind still occurs. I replaced the duty C solenoid and the flashes persist and the torque bind is still there. While everything was apart I replaced the clutch drum with a lower mileage drum and did some sanding of the clutch plate grooves. While separating the tail housing I pulled the housing out too far and pulled the wiring out of the pin to the duty C harness plug. I soldered on new connector. I installed the new duty C solenoid and applied sealant to the housing and started to put everything back together. I realized that I soldered the wrong end of the duty C harness plug so I had two identical ends!!! To save time I cut both harness plugs and just soldered them together and bolted the tailhousing back on. The next day the torque bind seemed to go away, but the flashes persisted. The next day the torque bind came back. I don't know if my solder job was bad (not likely, i solder RC helicopter wires all the time with success), I pinched the wiring when I put the tailhousing back on, or messed up something when I pulled the pin off. Anyway I started doing some diagnostics and am kinda stumped at this point. I checked the resistance of the duty c solenoid and it is 24 ohms which is way out of the 1 ohm max range given in the FSM. The flow chart says to replace the duty C solenoid ground. Does anyone know how to replace this ground? EDIT: Here is some more info. Links to FSM diagnostic procedure http://www.main.experiencetherave.co...id_c_diag1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.co...id_c_diag2.jpg To check the Duty C solenoid's ground disconnect connector from the transmission, and measure the resistance oftransmission connector receptacle and transmission case. I put the probe on pin 4 and the trans case and got a reading of about 28 ohms. The max allowed is 1 ohm so the reading I got would indicate a bad duty C solenoid Ground. If you look at the pin out diagram you can see that the duty C ground is spliced into the signal wire going to the duty C. This is the line that I had to cut and splice. The FSM flowchart states that if the ground line is out of the 1 ohm spec to repair the ground line. Unfortunately I don't have the transmission section of the first gen FSM. So in my mind the only way that I could replace the original ground would be to drop the trans, take it apart, and replace the internal wiring. Not an easy task. However, in theory shouldn't i just be able to run a new ground wire from pin 4 to the chassis? It wouldn't be in a loop like the original wiring but that should provide a good ground for the TCU and should in theory provide a low resistance value? If one looks at the wiring going into the 4EAT pin 4 ground loops into the duty C signal wire, so shouldn't running a new ground by tapping into the wire coming out of pin 4 work?: This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 3264x2448. My other idea is to go and measure the resistance of the donor legacy at the junkyard and see if pin 4 of the donor car gives a low resistance measurement. If I get a high number then I know that something else is the issue. When I follow the FSM procedure to measure the resistance of the duty C solenoid itself (pin 4 and 11 of the connector) I get nothing, which would make sense if I am not getting a ground. Or is the ground going to the duty C inside the trans not your typical ground and one of the 'powered' grounds you find in a Subaru? I am also going to cut open the wiring loom going and see if the ground has a broken connection. So perhaps the duty C solenoid was fine all along and I just have a wiring issue. If anyone has any ideas please let me know. I'll post back any findings I get as well.