monkeyposeur

I've used a Motive Brake Bleeder. You can do it by yourself and it gets all the air out. It's great but also $70. Me and a buddy went in on it.

Probably the o-ring under the power steering reservoir is old and leaking. They're a couple bucks at the dealership and easy to repalce.

Hmm, I'm not quite sure I am understanding what you are saying. Are you saying to cut the solenoid wiring going into the transmission. measure the resistance of the wire, and then splice it back together?

Cool! I'm not on FB but I'll try and get in touch with that Ben dude! My buddy said he found a guy in Australia that would find me one. Wonder if it's the same guy. Weren't you looking for some 22T pistons a while back on bbs? I have a set that I might toss soon.

No problem! If it is indeed a 22t turbo swapped car and the block is seized you could swap in an EJ205 shortblock from a USDM wrx, a JDM EJ20G shortblock, a JDM EJ20g longblock, and all could be run with the stock 22T ecu. To swap the turbo bits onto your 86 GL would require the oil return line mod I mentioned, running a coolant line and oil feed line to the turbo, a top mount intercooler or front mount, notching the engine crossmember for the turbo downpipe, a modified exhuast from the downpipe, a rising rate fuel pressure regulator, and only run 4-6 psi boost to be safe. Most turbo swaps like I just described work well in 90-94 first gen legacies, or some 95-96ish outback legacies or GCs.

I'm confused. None of the models you listed are a first gen turbo model. The LSi is an na vehicle. The Turbo Legacy is the SS. The turbo and na 22 blocks are different but share the same bore size, crank, and rods. The turbo 22ts are closed deck and about 8.5:1 compression with different pistons. The 22e blocks are open deck and have higher compression. The 22t heads have slightly smaller valves and a return line for oil from the turbo. They can be interchanged. The turbo return line component can be swapped from the 22t heads to the na heads, or one can plumb a line. The 22t valve covers have two breather ports and the na heads only have one. the 95 ej22 is the same as the 90-94 ej22 as far as the long block goes. Cam and crank sensors are also the same. NA and turbo ECUs are different. If you found a boost sensor on the 95, then you must be looking at a JDM wiring diagram since the only turbo legacies were available in the US from 90-94.

I just looked through your thread! Awesome job! A brat restoration is one of my dream projects.

I'm confident that if I pulled the pan I could do it right. I've build a few shortblocks and swapped engines and trannies, etc. Thanks for the info. I was wondering the the ecu had to communicate with the tcu or if they were independent. So it seems like the only way to get a phase 2 to work properly would be to do a complete wiring harness merge and engine/tranny swap. I was looking into doing that but I have since decided to go with a RobTune ecu.

OK, If I get some extra time I'll think about dropping the pan. I know it won't be a big deal although some report issues getting the pan to seal. I just replaced the steering rack, tie rod ends, oil pan, power steering lines, duty-c solenoid, did three drain and fills so I'm a bit tired of being underneath the car for a while at least. Most of what I have read on bbslegacycentral says not to bother with replacing the internal filter but I'll definitely keep it in mind.

Yeah, it's a good tranny. I just like to plan ahead since I want to keep the SS forever. A few strange issues have occurred with it though. There is a rattling type noise coming from the front of the bellhousing, where the torque converter is located. It goes away at higher rpms though. It's not a loose heat shield either. It isn't causing a problem but I don't like it and have no idea what it is. The other problem is the Duty-C solenoid code was flashing. I dropped the tailhousing and replaced the duty-c with a superseded part from Subaru. The torque bind and flashing went away for about two hours and came back. That pissed me off a little since replacing the duty-c is kind of a big job. I did all the FSM diagnostic procedures which indicated a faulty TCU. I replaced the TCU with another turbo TCU of the same year from a working vehicle and got the same flashing and torque bind. I checked the resistors and transistors of the TCU and they were all within spec. So on a whim I swapped in an NA TCU and the flashing is gone as well as the torque bind. It has a slightly different shift pattern now, but I have the POWER mode wired up and with that it shifts pretty good, and at WOT I can run it up to the redline. I have done multiple drain and fills and the fluid is nice and clean. To replace the filter I would have to drop the transmission pan, and the generally don't clog up so I'm not going to mess with that. There isn't an exernal trans filter on my 4EAT like some later models. I am also trying to source a JDM VTD TCU for an EJ20G Auto trans since I can find low mileage JDM transmissions pretty easily, but the TCU is proving impossible to find. I am also installing a RobTune TCU soon so there will be a bump in hp and like I said, just in case it breaks down the line I want to know what options are available. I would rather just swap in a JDM 5MT but my wife drives the car and loves having an automatic even though she can drive a stick just fine.

The 4EAT in my 93 Turbo Legacy has 180k. It shifts great and works as it should but I am looking for options in case it shits the bed. I could swap in an NA Phase I Legacy 4EAT, but I want to know what else I could swap in. I am trying to find a JDM TCU so I can run a 20G VTD trans but can't locate a TCU (any help locating one would be awesome!!!). Does anyone have any info how to swap in a phase II 4EAT? I would imagine it would require swapping over the Phase II trans wiring at the very least. I Someone has to have done this, lol.

^If you use STi 257 2.5 heads you will also get the mushroom chamber. Thanks for the clarification though.

I measured the voltage with the solenoid connected. Since the solenoid is only accessible if you remove the tail housing I don't see how it would be practical to remove the tail housing to test the solenoid. The FSM protocol doesn't specify to remove the solenoid before measuring.

Thank you CNY_Dave. I found the thread you might be referring to: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/106396-fixing-a-fried-4eat-tcu-due-to-bad-duty-c/ I have more evidence that the TCU may be bad. I measured the voltage output of the TCU with the FWD fuse in and the accelerator pedal released and it was 11.9 V. This is in the specified voltage range of 8-14 V. The NA TCU output voltage is 11.4 V. However the output of the TCU with the FWD fuse removed and the pedal depressed is 10.2 V. The specified range is 0.5 V max. What is strange is the output of the TCU under the same measuring condition is 4.8 V. So both TCUs are out of range, but the Turbo TCU is a lot farther out of the range. My board shows no signs of damage like the board in the link above. I checked each of the transistors paying special attention to the transistor that is connected to pin 3, the duty C solenoid pin. They all read the same! So so far I have no indications that the transistor for pin 3 is in any way falty. The resistors measure in spec and I was able to follow the circuit all the way to one of the tiny black thingys on the back side. The black thingy looks like a small fet but I am not sure what kind of component it is. I found a local electronics repair guy and with some persuasion I might be able to get him to repair the board if it needs it, or at the very least diagnose the issue. He feels working on older TCUs is potentially dangerous and I can see why for liability reasons. I am also trying to figure out what JDM 20G transmissions may be compatible with the SS. There isn't a lot of information on them and I haven't come across any JDM wiring diagrams with which to compare to the SS 4EAT wiring. I am considering buying a complete 93ish JDM 20G 4EAT drivetrain and swapping that in next summer just to freshen things up. Although I would rather do a 02-03 WRX harness merge and build another 205/22T hybrid to modernize things a bit. Once I know more I'll update. But so far the NA TCU is working nicely so that's a success. Still looking for a replacement Turbo TCU. If anyone has a 93-94 4EAT Turbo Legacy TCU send me a PM.

I would try adjusting your cable that connects to the handle first. Sure it might be old but worth a shot.