im pretty sure i cannot save the head what exactly happened to cause this thogh. the passenger cam is no longer strait with the head its cocked over at an angle. im guessing it needs new heads would like confirmation. what caused this to happen? this is an ej22 so the valves shouldent have contacted the pistons.

 

Edited December 2, 20178 yr by sirtokesalot

cam gear broke is my guess. Or the camshaft itself.

do i need heads from another 95 2.2? what other year subaru heads can i use on the 1995 legacy l 2.2 engine?

I'd pull the cam gear and see what's up.

 

If the cam froze due to lack of lub, the engine most likely is beyond hope.

 

Dig a little further, drain the oil and check the filter for metal.

 

Miles?

I'd pull the cam gear and see what's up.

 

If the cam froze due to lack of lub, the engine most likely is beyond hope.

 

Dig a little further, drain the oil and check the filter for metal.

 

Miles?

engine has around 220,000 it had oil in it and the pressure light never came on i had just done an oil change about 600 miles ago and check it daily due to having a leak.

Cam gear might have gotten damaged at some point and just now broke...   otherwise a broke cam is almost always lack of oil.

i dont have money for another engine. if this moter is hopeless it might not be fixed for quite a long time. it did not make any bad sounds before it let go just a light squeaking sound when it would idle down witch to me sounded like a bad idler bearing. i was cruising slowly when it let go maby 1,500 or 2000 rpm in gear it just lost power and the engine light came on no throttle response then all the other lights came on. it was not knocking prior to the incident either. i cannot check anything on it now as i had it towed to my uncles house where the heated garage is.

Edited December 2, 20178 yr by sirtokesalot

All the speculation in the world isn't going to help solve this case. It's a 95 so valves and pistons didn't meet. Remove the shredded belt and see if the cam gear turns, if it does that's great. Remove the cam gear, maybe that's all it needs. If the cam won't turn remove the valve cover and take a look.... Give us some update so we can help you.

All the speculation in the world isn't going to help solve this case. It's a 95 so valves and pistons didn't meet. Remove the shredded belt and see if the cam gear turns, if it does that's great. Remove the cam gear, maybe that's all it needs. If the cam won't turn remove the valve cover and take a look.... Give us some update so we can help you.

will do at the moment im thinking ither Sunday or Tuesday will be the next time im there to start tearing it apart. i will update with what i find. the belt is still in tact from what i can tell and is just pushed over inside the center cover the cam did not want to turn when i tried to move it but i did not stick a wrench on it.

Edited December 2, 20178 yr by sirtokesalot

Well it's not going to turn with a belt jammed up behind it no matter what you do. Get the belt out of there and see what's up.

https://hartford.craigslist.org/pts/d/subaru-22-engines-1996/6401306277.html

 

 should i maby just buy these? 200 for 2 ej22 1996 engines unknown miles would it be worth the chance?

Edited December 2, 20178 yr by sirtokesalot

How about you diagnose the problem before jumping to conclusions.

Camshaft seized or pulley broke. Reach in there and try to spin the cam with a 17mm wrench on the pulley bolt.

https://hartford.craigslist.org/pts/d/subaru-22-engines-1996/6401306277.html

 

should i maby just buy these? 200 for 2 ej22 1996 engines unknown miles would it be worth the chance?

Not sure where you are but I also saw this listing as it isn’t all too far from me and other USMB guys. I doubt you will need these but if you need some help with them let me know and maybe I can help out.

 

But for now , just make the time. Start with basics. Remove the battery negative , drain oil , remove fans , 22mm socket and large pipe for the crank bolt , remove timing covers , and you’re on your way.

 

Are you near CT ? With a board name like that I’d think VT lol

Enjoy

My first thought is a pulley went and you’re just feeling tension on the cam. Belt pushed the cam out. Maybe the weak metal gave in. But you’ll tell us soon.

 

Don’t buy cheap. I know money is tight but if the car is important and you need the timing belt kit many folks will suggest you do it right and try to buy dealer parts , or a better make of aftermarket.

 

But do beware ! Names we trusted recently have now slapped their name in lesser quality parts. So research current experiences.

Edited December 2, 20178 yr by moosens

Look on ebay for a good timing set , six star bernie sells a good kit ...  subaru OE belt and NTN tensioner ,NSK rollers   (200858175013 )  $259.85 delivered.  Or you can get the same kit with a mitsubeshi belt  for $216.65 delivered (191939610590 )   You will be sorry if you end up with the china junk.

tomarrow morning im going to head over where the car is  to pull the engine out. i might tear  it apart if i have time tomarrow but it might not get torn apart until monday or tuesday. and yes i am located in connecticut

Edited December 2, 20178 yr by sirtokesalot

I have cam gears and everything you need to put it back together to see if it runs.

 

Shipped from CO, 80919

IF the head needs replaced and because it's the Passenger side you can use any head from a '90-'95 as they're all Dual-port exhaust. '96-'98 are Single-port and you'd have replace BOTH heads and get the single-port exhaust manifold or do some interesting exhaust manifold work.

 

Also, if this is an Automatic trans it'll have EGR which means the DRIVER's side head must also have the EGR port (but we all know that's not a show stopper).

 

GL,

Td

Edited December 3, 20178 yr by wtdash

well the engines out now i took a few pictures but dident take it apart that far im waiting on a friend of mine to come down on tuesday after work to help me tear the engine apart and inspect it closer. heres a few pictures for now when i drained the oil i did not find any metal in the oil there was some metallic look to the oil inside of the filter but again no large bits just a slight metal look in the oil but i only saw it inside of the filter.

 

this pulley seized could this idler seizing have anything to do with the cam snapping?

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 3, 20178 yr by sirtokesalot

Cheaper and faster to pick up a good used engine and bolt it in IMHO.

those 2 engines were sold. there are no other engines around in the state at the moment. im thinking im going to just throw a junk yard head on it. i feel like that cogged gear was seizing putting extra strain on the cam and the extra pressure along with it suddenly stopping caused the cam to snap. at least im hoping this is the cause because the inside is not chewed up like it was wearing the metal from lack of oil. im going to put another oil pump on it for good measure as well just in case it is weak.

Edited December 4, 20178 yr by sirtokesalot

Anything is possible, but normally a locked up idler will just shred the belt. The cam might have been previously damaged and just decided it was time to go.

Have seen a couple of pulleys overheat when the engine is running and weld themselves stuck after the engine is off.

 

Id pull the rest of the cam out and see if there's any scoring of the other 2 cam journals in the head. Look for any signs that the cam seized due to lack of oil. If it all looks ok then put a used head on and it should be fine. If the other journals are damaged it would indicate that the cam seized due to lack of oil and there could be other serious damage elsewhere in the engine.

Sudden side force on the cam end produced when idler seized.

 

I would just pop the valve train off, pull the cam and replace the cam.  No need for an entire head, especially not for one slapped on JY head.

 

good time for some Delta upgrades?

Umm , I have a low miles 2.2 for sale.

It’s up with Jesse - Subafreak in Canterbury.

 

You can see it run. Send a PM and we’ll talk.