I may need to replace my clutch plate soon. 

 

The clutch would disengage barely enough with the clutch pedal to the floor.   

I adjusted the clutch cable so it is now possible to press the clutch pedal to he floor put the transmission into reverse without hearing the clashing of gears, but...

 

accelerating with the clutch fully engaged, it looks like the clutch slips.  The RPM rise at full throttle without the expected  corresponding acceleration. 

 

I last did this job on a Gen 2 Subaru in 1989!   I think I can do it again.  

 

Please, I would like advice on...

 

Where to buy parts, including the insert to position the clutch plate

 

What other jobs should I do on the engine, as it will be out of the car, and easy to work on?

 

mkoch

 

 

More on the symptoms....

 

I can make the clutch slip without touching the clutch pedal, at full throttle, 2500 rpm.     It does not slip (foot off clutch pedal) at 4,000 rpm.  

 

With the clutch pedal all the way in, the transmission will hardly go into gear.  It is a struggle to push the stick forward when at a stop, putting it into 1st gear.  

 

So, it looks like I can't solve this by adjusting the clutch cable, it seems to me to be a worn clutch.   Opinion?

So which year is this one? You mention in the past you’ve done a Gen 2

 

Aside from the clutch issues you might want to check the pedal box for cracks especially on the clutch side. And be sure you are routing the cable correctly. Yes I know you’ve done the Gen 2 before but just throwing out some info.

 

While it’s out you want to also do the rear main seal. If this is a 90’s EJ then also do the rear cam seals.

 

Clutch alignment tool is what you’re describing. Often comes with a clutch kit , which you should get. It will have the disk , pressure plate , probably a release bearing and alignment tool as well.

Edited December 7, 20178 yr by moosens

Thank you for the response.

The one I have now is a 1984 nom turbo 4wd wagon. The old one was a 1981 nom turbo 4wd wagon.

Is there a vendor for the clutch kit which is better than others?

 

Edited, is ti likely I will need a new flywheel?

Edited December 7, 20178 yr by mkoch

check the cable mounting at the pedal box.

 

Seen a few now were the mounting was flexing/tearing in the pedal box not allowing the cable to actually pull.

 

A few reinforcing welds will fix it.

That’s exactly what I’m talking about. Pedal box cracks and flexes.

 

Flywheels can usually be resurfaced but sometimes you can find a new one if desired. A little pricey but that’s life.

Easy search to see what a bad flywheel looks like. You don’t want any blueing or any minor cracks etc.

 

You’re likely to see some light blueing. Don’t let that scare you. Just inspect well and I’m sure it’ll last until the next clutch disk. I was in a pinch at the time and reused mine at around 159k and the car now has 312k and still it’s original flywheel.

Rock Auto has a few choices... 

 

Is this a good one?

 

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=334557&cc=1268344&jsn=508&jsn=508&jsn=508

I personally would try to find a Sachs or LUK. I've used Sachs with great success and heard good things about LUK.

 

Twitch

 

PS: I second checking your clutch bracket. I went through 3 clutch cables before I welded mine up with some pieces of angle iron.

 

PS: I second checking your clutch bracket. I went through 3 clutch cables before I welded mine up with some pieces of angle iron. 

 

I will check it again.  I am having trouble at both ends of the clutch travel.  

 

The clutch will slip when my foot is off the clutch pedal

The transmission will resist going into gear with the clutch pedal fully depressed.  

 

mkoch

I will check it again. I am having trouble at both ends of the clutch travel.

 

The clutch will slip when my foot is off the clutch pedal

The transmission will resist going into gear with the clutch pedal fully depressed.

 

mkoch

Don't forget to inspect your clutch cable while you're down there. The end may be frayed near the pedal box.

 

Twitch