My mechanic just pulled the '95 EJ22 out of the '97 GT where it had been swapped since the GT had run into an embankment, so the EJ22 needs another new home. Per the previous owner, the engine only has about 100K miles on it.

I found a clean '99 Outback that needs headgaskets that I'd like to have this engine swapped into. How easy is this swap? I've read where EJ22's (especially '95's with dual port exhaust) directly swap into '97- '98 Outbacks/ GT's that came with EJ25D's, but is this also true for a '99?

 

Yes as long as the EGR configuration matches.

I've done a bunch.  Love the 95 2.2 into the 96-99 Outbacks.

95 2.2 goes in a 98 forester easy as well.   I have done 3-4 of these 95 2.2 into 96-99 outbacks.     Not a 99 legacy though as that is gen ii

I'm looking at a '99 Outback- E25D with bad headgaskets. Car looks rust free and clean, 180K miles. Customer brought it in for service and decided not to fix it and give it to the shop so they are selling it for $500. They say the steering rack leaks a bit, needs a CVT boot/ axle and will need a wheel bearing eventually. Trying to work out a deal with the shop to swap my engine in. 

I've read somewhere where you should use the EJ25D flywheel on the EJ22? As for my engine, pretty sure it has EGR (looks like it has an EGR valve) and did not throw a CEL in the '97 Legacy GT either.

 

14 hours ago, Stevo F said:

I've read somewhere where you should use the EJ25D flywheel on the EJ22? As for my engine, pretty sure it has EGR (looks like it has an EGR valve) and did not throw a CEL in the '97 Legacy GT either.

 

 

You just use whatever flexplate/flywheels matches the trans.  If you have an automatic, that will be the 2.5 flexplate.

change the oil separator plate from plastic to metal while you are in there too.  

Also check the starter mount studs.  I forget what combination but some require you to put a helicoil in the trans as the block is not threaded on the lower hole.  Not a big deal, just much easier to do with the engine out.

3 hours ago, lmdew said:

Also check the starter mount studs.  I forget what combination but some require you to put a helicoil in the trans as the block is not threaded on the lower hole.  Not a big deal, just much easier to do with the engine out.

If this is a manual trans then yes that would need to happen.  helicoil and Stud set in trans bell.

 

On 1/31/2019 at 6:07 PM, 3Pin said:

change the oil separator plate from plastic to metal while you are in there too.  

I asked the mechanic who had pulled the engine what type of separator plate was installed (since the engine was a swap, maybe it had been replaced by the metal one). He said there wasn't one at all- hmmm... maybe that's where the oil leak was coming from.

24 minutes ago, Stevo F said:

I asked the mechanic who had pulled the engine what type of separator plate was installed (since the engine was a swap, maybe it had been replaced by the metal one). He said there wasn't one at all- hmmm... maybe that's where the oil leak was coming from.

Run from that mechanic.  He's either dumb or full of crap or both

Plastic oil separator plate

 

Aluminum one

 

Current version

Actually I had no idea what the separator plate looks like- I don't think the mechanic was familiar with the term either. Actually the flex plate/ flywheel is still installed on the engine, so you can't tell what type is installed right now anyway.

1 hour ago, Stevo F said:

Actually I had no idea what the separator plate looks like- I don't think the mechanic was familiar with the term either. Actually the flex plate/ flywheel is still installed on the engine, so you can't tell what type is installed right now anyway.

That’s right! So your mechanic probably didn’t check that or remove the flex plate from the donor engine. 

I’ve also seen a cream coloured plastic plate as well. 

Cheers 

Bennie