1982 EA-81 BRAT with Carter/Weber

[Vanson1200R]

I picked up a 82 Brat from a field in northern California and towed it to northern Washington.  It was parked in 1996 with a full tank of gas so I'm pretty sure I will just go the fuel cell route. The original T81W transmission was stuck in 4th gear so I pulled one out of another Brat at the local Pick N Pull (lucky find!). I have it all put together (along with a working center/cyclops light) but I think my original Carter/Weber carb is to gummed up to function properly.  Until I install the fuel cell I'm sucking fuel from a 5 gallon can (new fuel pump and fuel lines) and gas is getting to the carb and also returning to the can via the fuel return line but it wont fire.  If I dump gas in the carb it will run as long as I'm dumping it in.  Hmmm.  I have the wrong intake for the Weber 32/36 and a rebuild kit is non existent for the original Carter/Weber. Any ideas? 

[GeneralDisorder]

Get a Hitachi intake so you can Weber swap it. The carter single barrel was $hit on its best day. The Hitachi was considerably better and even those were honestly pretty gutless and horrible to work on.  

GD

[naru2]

Your Brat is nice enough to spend some effort keeping it stock.You will be glad you did in the future.

Every joker has a Weber.with one of those cheesy little airfilters and no carb heat.

Carter/Weber kits are readily available,if a little pricey.https://www.ebay.com/itm/1982-84-CARB-KIT-CARTER-TYF-MODEL-2-BARREL-CARBURETOR-VW-RABBIT-SUBARU-1800/261466892303?hash=item3ce0a4280f:g:zYMAAOSwvg9XYZ0q

Complete rebuilt carbs are about $300 from several sources.

http://www.chicagocarburetor.com/carburetors-remanufactured.php?c=124

http://www.nationalcarburetors.com/lookup.aspx?partnum=sub001

The Carter/Webers run fine.I preferred mine over the Hitachi.

They have some advantage over the Hitachi w/its vacuum secondary.

They allow you to open the throttle  completely at low engine speed(like a weber DGV)  giving slightly better low to mid range response.

Only trouble I recall was the throttle body coming loose from the float bowl.

Here is a decent rebuild tutorial  https://performancetechnician.com/1988/10/carburetor-clinic-carter-weber-one-barrel/

OEM version https://www.ebay.com/itm/1982-CARTER-WEBER-OEM-ORIGINAL-CARBURETOR-SERVICE-MANUAL-FOR-MODEL-TYF/142680349224?hash=item2138695a28:g:ky4AAOSwM91aeH0n

Good luck.

Edited April 24, 2019 by naru2

[naru2]

Are you sure the float isn`t just stuck?

It should at least sputter a bit with fuel from the accelerator pump even if the idle circuit is plugged.

[Mack Truck]

 

http://www.redlineweber.com/carb-kits/auto/subaru/

Redline will have the carb rebuild kits.   I have a 38/38 webber syncro on my 86 GL adn love it.  u might want to get the 38/38 as it alows much more air for low end power.  my fuel milage stayed the same as the stock Hitachi Carb but is soooo much better.

 

 

[GeneralDisorder]

I doubt that keeping it stock has any merit. Brat's peaked in value a while ago and then people realized there were no parts available and weren't ever going to be. Prices went back down and have been static now for years - adjusting for inflation they have decreased in value substantially. 

Regardless, a rebuild kit will not alleviate worn throttle shafts, or the tendency for these to rattle themselves apart. Nor will it give the low end torque of a 32/36 Weber with progressive linkage. Carb heat? Really? That can be arranged rather easily on the Weber. 

A 32/36 will give the vehicle a new lease on life. It's simple and reliable and parts are available to keep it in proper tune. Take pictures, save all the old parts in a box if you must - for some future where Brat parts are available at every Walmart. 

GD

[FerGloyale]

13 hours ago, GeneralDisorder said:

I doubt that keeping it stock has any merit. Brat's peaked in value a while ago and then people realized there were no parts available and weren't ever going to be. Prices went back down and have been static now for years - adjusting for inflation they have decreased in value substantially. 

Regardless, a rebuild kit will not alleviate worn throttle shafts, or the tendency for these to rattle themselves apart. Nor will it give the low end torque of a 32/36 Weber with progressive linkage. Carb heat? Really? That can be arranged rather easily on the Weber. 

A 32/36 will give the vehicle a new lease on life. It's simple and reliable and parts are available to keep it in proper tune. Take pictures, save all the old parts in a box if you must - for some future where Brat parts are available at every Walmart. 

GD

Though I think some Brats are still holding and gaining value,I gotta agree here.

 A good running Weber is a better bet than the Carter single barrel any day.  It's a nice Brat but not a candidate for an "all Original",  "concours" restoration 

[GeneralDisorder]

Exactly. Considerable body damage to drivers rear quarter, paint is shot, front bumper dents.... the man is trying to get his hooptie on the road not restore it to showroom. Not that it couldn't be nice with a ton of work, but no inclination toward that end is on exhibit here. Screw that Carter single barrel worn out trash. Stuff it in the attic and get on the road and on with life. 

GD

[naru2]

If your after the simplest, cheapest,fastest "get on with life" solution  a complete carter/weber beats a weber swap.

I don`t think you will need concours condition for originality to add value in the future.

[sparkyboy]

Single barrel eh? Will a rochester monojet fit? The little one for the corvair might be right up your alley. 

I bet it does fit because Carter made the carbs for the turbo corvair.

Edited April 27, 2019 by sparkyboy

[Vanson1200R]

On 4/25/2019 at 9:17 PM, GeneralDisorder said:

Exactly. Considerable body damage to drivers rear quarter, paint is shot, front bumper dents.... the man is trying to get his hooptie on the road not restore it to showroom. Not that it couldn't be nice with a ton of work, but no inclination toward that end is on exhibit here. Screw that Carter single barrel worn out trash. Stuff it in the attic and get on the road and on with life. 

GD

Yeah, I would like to have a reliable driver. I'll replace glass and window seals and such. Going to mostly be a in town car and fire service road explorer. 

[Vanson1200R]

On 4/24/2019 at 4:42 AM, naru2 said:

Your Brat is nice enough to spend some effort keeping it stock.You will be glad you did in the future.

Every joker has a Weber.with one of those cheesy little airfilters and no carb heat.

Carter/Weber kits are readily available,if a little pricey.https://www.ebay.com/itm/1982-84-CARB-KIT-CARTER-TYF-MODEL-2-BARREL-CARBURETOR-VW-RABBIT-SUBARU-1800/261466892303?hash=item3ce0a4280f:g:zYMAAOSwvg9XYZ0q

Complete rebuilt carbs are about $300 from several sources.

http://www.chicagocarburetor.com/carburetors-remanufactured.php?c=124

http://www.nationalcarburetors.com/lookup.aspx?partnum=sub001

The Carter/Webers run fine.I preferred mine over the Hitachi.

They have some advantage over the Hitachi w/its vacuum secondary.

They allow you to open the throttle  completely at low engine speed(like a weber DGV)  giving slightly better low to mid range response.

Only trouble I recall was the throttle body coming loose from the float bowl.

Here is a decent rebuild tutorial  https://performancetechnician.com/1988/10/carburetor-clinic-carter-weber-one-barrel/

OEM version https://www.ebay.com/itm/1982-CARTER-WEBER-OEM-ORIGINAL-CARBURETOR-SERVICE-MANUAL-FOR-MODEL-TYF/142680349224?hash=item2138695a28:g:ky4AAOSwM91aeH0n

Good luck.

Fantastic information thank you. I think I will pop for the complete rebuilt unit to eliminate any issues and then keep my old carb as a extra.

[Vanson1200R]

The data tag on my Carter Weber reads TYF7419SA. Most of the catalogs I'm looking at gives me two choices of carburetors and I'm not sure which one to go with for my application. One asks for two vaccum lines on the pulse solenoid (what's that?)

[naru2]

You should be good w/the complete number.I would make some phone calls to be sure.

I know there were 2 versions w/minor differences.I thought 82/3 were the same and 84s differed.

The pulse solenoid is also known as the duty solenoid.

All of the solenoids are ID`d in #s 1&2 here https://www.mastertechmag.com/pdf/1988/10oct/198810IS_CarterWeber1Barrel.pdf

[naru2]

For $3,I would get the book too.https://www.ebay.com/itm/1982-CARTER-WEBER-OEM-ORIGINAL-CARBURETOR-SERVICE-MANUAL-FOR-MODEL-TYF/142680349224?hash=item2138695a28:g:ky4AAOSwM91aeH0n

[Vanson1200R]

4 hours ago, naru2 said:

For $3,I would get the book too.https://www.ebay.com/itm/1982-CARTER-WEBER-OEM-ORIGINAL-CARBURETOR-SERVICE-MANUAL-FOR-MODEL-TYF/142680349224?hash=item2138695a28:g:ky4AAOSwM91aeH0n

I think I will do just that.

[turfman454]

On 4/24/2019 at 7:42 AM, naru2 said:

Your Brat is nice enough to spend some effort keeping it stock.You will be glad you did in the future.

Every joker has a Weber.with one of those cheesy little airfilters and no carb heat.

Carter/Weber kits are readily available,if a little pricey.https://www.ebay.com/itm/1982-84-CARB-KIT-CARTER-TYF-MODEL-2-BARREL-CARBURETOR-VW-RABBIT-SUBARU-1800/261466892303?hash=item3ce0a4280f:g:zYMAAOSwvg9XYZ0q

Complete rebuilt carbs are about $300 from several sources.

http://www.chicagocarburetor.com/carburetors-remanufactured.php?c=124

http://www.nationalcarburetors.com/lookup.aspx?partnum=sub001

The Carter/Webers run fine.I preferred mine over the Hitachi.

They have some advantage over the Hitachi w/its vacuum secondary.

They allow you to open the throttle  completely at low engine speed(like a weber DGV)  giving slightly better low to mid range response.

Only trouble I recall was the throttle body coming loose from the float bowl.

Here is a decent rebuild tutorial  https://performancetechnician.com/1988/10/carburetor-clinic-carter-weber-one-barrel/

OEM version https://www.ebay.com/itm/1982-CARTER-WEBER-OEM-ORIGINAL-CARBURETOR-SERVICE-MANUAL-FOR-MODEL-TYF/142680349224?hash=item2138695a28:g:ky4AAOSwM91aeH0n

Good luck.

 

[Vanson1200R]

I installed a new fuel pump and replaced all the fuel lines and filters. I turn the key and the pump starts, filters fill up and I get fuel out of the return line but no fuel to the motor. I dump gas down the carb and it runs for a few moments or as long as I'm dumping gas in it. Any ideas? 

[naru2]

The float might be stuck.

Does fuel make it INTO the carb?Does the accelerator pump squirt?

[sparkyboy]

@Vanson1200R

The research is up to you my friend, you seem to be doing a fine job thus far on your Carter.

But if a corvair carb will work well I have two. They are smaller than the monojet which came with the 4.1 inline six.

The GM flat six was 2.3 liters, so im guessing one carb can easily make a 1.8 happy.

And probably easier to find parts! Lol

Who knows? might make her scream!

[Vanson1200R]

16 hours ago, naru2 said:

The float might be stuck.

Does fuel make it INTO the carb?Does the accelerator pump squirt?

It does not appear to. The strange thing is that it ran about 8 months ago before I swapped in my Pick and Pull transmission. It has been warm and dry inside my garage but now the accelerator pump won't squirt. 

[naru2]

Good news that it was running so recently.

It does appear that the carb may be empty because of a stuck float.

First thing to try is tapping the float bowl with a soft hammer type device preferably with the fuel pump running.

That almost always works.It might stick again though.

You may have to take the top off to see what is going on if that does not work.Nothing to lose.

You don`t have to have a new gasket from a carb kit.I didn`t have one.

As long as the old gasket does not break at a strategic location,it is reusable.

Worst case,you would need to make a gasket w/some punches and a xacto knife.

The carter weber gasket looks simple enough,I`ve made more intricate ones.

Base gaskets are a piece of cake.

[Vanson1200R]

10 hours ago, naru2 said:

Good news that it was running so recently.

It does appear that the carb may be empty because of a stuck float.

First thing to try is tapping the float bowl with a soft hammer type device preferably with the fuel pump running.

That almost always works.It might stick again though.

You may have to take the top off to see what is going on if that does not work.Nothing to lose.

You don`t have to have a new gasket from a carb kit.I didn`t have one.

As long as the old gasket does not break at a strategic location,it is reusable.

Worst case,you would need to make a gasket w/some punches and a xacto knife.

The carter weber gasket looks simple enough,I`ve made more intricate ones.

Base gaskets are a piece of cake.

Thanks for the info. I took the carb off and took it to my shop I work at and flushed it with warm solvent and gave it a good shaking to get all the solvent out but once I reinstalled it I had the same issue. I'll tap it with a soft hammer then like you said I have nothing to loose by taking the top off.  

[naru2]

Check the fuel inlet filter under the banjo bolt.

Check that the throttle body is tight.There is a screw underneath that comes loose.

Edited May 1, 2019 by naru2

[naru2]

On 4/28/2019 at 9:41 AM, Vanson1200R said:

The data tag on my Carter Weber reads TYF7419SA. Most of the catalogs I'm looking at gives me two choices of carburetors and I'm not sure which one to go with for my application. One asks for two vaccum lines on the pulse solenoid (what's that?)

I think the vacuum lines from the altitude compensator attach to the spacer under the duty solenoid,if so equipped.

Edited May 2, 2019 by naru2
+ altitude compensator