Jump to content

naru2

Members
  • Content count

    80
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

naru2 last won the day on January 17

naru2 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

20 Excellent

About naru2

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    kelowna bc
  • Vehicles
    84 gl

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Are you sure the float isn`t just stuck? It should at least sputter a bit with fuel from the accelerator pump even if the idle circuit is plugged.
  2. Your Brat is nice enough to spend some effort keeping it stock.You will be glad you did in the future. Every joker has a Weber.with one of those cheesy little airfilters and no carb heat. Carter/Weber kits are readily available,if a little pricey.https://www.ebay.com/itm/1982-84-CARB-KIT-CARTER-TYF-MODEL-2-BARREL-CARBURETOR-VW-RABBIT-SUBARU-1800/261466892303?hash=item3ce0a4280f:g:zYMAAOSwvg9XYZ0q Complete rebuilt carbs are about $300 from several sources. http://www.chicagocarburetor.com/carburetors-remanufactured.php?c=124 http://www.nationalcarburetors.com/lookup.aspx?partnum=sub001 The Carter/Webers run fine.I preferred mine over the Hitachi. They have some advantage over the Hitachi w/its vacuum secondary. They allow you to open the throttle completely at low engine speed(like a weber DGV) giving slightly better low to mid range response. Only trouble I recall was the throttle body coming loose from the float bowl. Here is a decent rebuild tutorial https://performancetechnician.com/1988/10/carburetor-clinic-carter-weber-one-barrel/ OEM version https://www.ebay.com/itm/1982-CARTER-WEBER-OEM-ORIGINAL-CARBURETOR-SERVICE-MANUAL-FOR-MODEL-TYF/142680349224?hash=item2138695a28:g:ky4AAOSwM91aeH0n Good luck.
  3. naru2

    Rpm needle jumping

    Probably worn distributor bushings.Pretty common. See if you can wiggle the shaft.Any more than barely perceptible movement is too much. Another tach won`t read right either as the ignition primary signal is messed up.
  4. I`m confused. Is the 5000 rpm with only the TPS change(s)? or TPS and ECU? or TPS and either ECU? Adjusting the TPS is simple.Feeler gauges are like $3 or you can sometimes use drill bits instead. It is a one man job.Move the throttle by hand. You take resistance measurements w/the TPS unplugged. My info says: 1 Measure resistance between the black and gray wires w/a .35 mm(.014") feeler gauge between the throttle stop and the lever.Should be 5000 ohms or less. 2 Change feeler gauge to .75mm.Resistance should now be infinite. 3 Remove feeler gauge.Resistace between the black/white wire and the black should be 3000-7000. 4 Measure resistance between green/black and black.Throttle closed should be 4200-15,000.Fully open 100-11,000 5 Check for a smooth variation as the throttle moves. I do not see any way the TPS could command the IACV open.It could change the fuel though. It would be worth knowing if you still get 5000 rpm w/the IACV unplugged.(better yet-hose blocked pigtail connected) I suspect the new TPS stuff added fuel to a preexisting vacuum leak thus spiking the rpm. Is there 5 volts at the CTS pigtail w/the new ECU?
  5. Not sure if they fit,but,these stock type ones are pretty nice for $13 https://www.ebay.com/itm/PEUGEOT-4-x-Plastic-Wheel-Centre-Cap-Hubs-with-Silicone-Logo-60mm-55mm-NEW/192864817016?hash=item2ce7a38f78:g:OVYAAOSwbiFZTQ4D&vxp=mtr Plenty of other choices on ebay.
  6. Find more pulleys on carpart.com by looking up other ea71 engine parts. Not many wreckers are going to list the pulley separately. I see more than a dozen doner engines when searching for a cylinder head. Other searchs will locate others. Same place might have a clutch boot-nobody will list that.
  7. cardictionary says it better than me "Four-stroke piston engines exhibit non-uniform rotation. The separate strokes (suction, compression, power, exhaust) combined with the firing order of the individual cylinders dictate that the crankshaft is continuously accelerated and decelerated. Torsional vibration dampers, or rotation vibration dampers , as they are also known, must damp these rotational irregularities and vibrations of the crankshaft so that they are not passed on to the belt drive system. Vibration and oscillation noise is damped and not transmitted to the vehicle structure, where it would be perceived by the driver and passengers as inconvenient and unpleasant. At the same time, the rotation vibration damper reduces wear of the V-ribbed belt and extends the service life of the units and belt drive components it is responsible for driving."
  8. I neither have nor know the part number for the boot. Even if you found a NOS one it would be old and cracked by now.
  9. naru2

    Subaru brats by state

    I recall a map that showed Subarus were concentrated along the west coast and in mountainous areas. Lots in colorado. California probably had the most Brats.
  10. Sounds iffy.I`d get a used one. Plenty here http://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi Make some calls or try a classified ad on this site. You are lucky in that yours is a common ea71 pulley. Any ea71 from 1976-79 or an 80 manual trans are suitable doners. You are looking for 313184300
  11. READ THE CODE There is no good reason for a rough hot idle w/the IACV inoperative.I would try to isolate and eliminate IACV symptoms by pinching a hose closed and leaving it electricly connected. Voltage at the CTS pigtail is not dependent on temperature when the sensor is disconnected. Sounds to me like the IACV sticks once hot.I would try cooling it with one of those aerosol sprays while it is doing the hot fast idle thing.
  12. naru2

    EA82 Throttle IA screw

    Counterclockwise to open the passage bypassing the throttle and raise the rpm. If it is unresponsive,there is another problem.
  13. Find an XT6 here http://car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi Search for a different part.I used a camshaft. Phone one of the wreckers and have them cut off the pigtail. Those pins will be available somewhere.I bought subaru ECU pins from a different dealer-Honda maybe? Or ask these guys https://www.iwireservices.com/3-pin-plugs You don`t need to run the car to troubleshoot the 3.2 volts.Just have the key on. You should read the codes.Easy and possibly informative. Check the 3.2 at the cts plug while both the TPS and MAF are unplugged. It is possible that a fault there could load the 5 volt supply enough to drop the voltage.I would expect a trouble code. I would get a backup ECU while they are still around.
  14. naru2

    1985 Brat carb issues

    +1 Sounds like the primary barrel only. Make sure the fuel level is in the middle of the sight glass and the accl. pump squirts strong too. The air bleed system/hoses matter too.There is a calibrated orfice in the line. Idle would be bad w/a vacuum leak.You would be lucky to find one w/a vacuum pump, Doesn`t the automatic choke work?
  15. Quite likely there is a vacuum leak as well as an IACV related issue.Would explain the rough idle and rpm variation. Corroded connections won`t affect the 3.2 volt reading w/the CTS unplugged as there is no current flowing. AFAIK,the only fault that could make the voltage too low here is a failed voltage regulator in the ECU. Pretty sure the same voltage regulator also supplies 5 volts to the TPS.You might want to check voltages there. I did not mean to suggest you had a pinched hose,I meant you could disable the IACV by pinching a hose instaed of unplugging it and possibly sending the ECU into a limp mode.
×