Hi there. My 2000 subaru legacy has had issues starting recently and now won't at all. I can put the key in, turn and radio comes on as well as lights but car won't start. I could hook up jumper cables and it would start right away. The other day the jumping stopped working. The car still has lights and radio though. We tried a new ignition switch but didn't help. The starter is still fine as it reads fine on a multidigital meter. The battery reads good too. My neighbor took out the neutral safety switch thinking that might be done. Going to buy one tomorrow. Would anyone have suggestions on where to go from here? Anything is appreciated. Thank you. 

When you stay starting issues, you mean the engine is NOT turning over.  At least that is how I read your post.  

You need to check voltage under load - key on, turned to start.

Read it at the starter positive terminal and starter + lead coming out of the main contacts of the starter.

Clutch pedal safety interlock switch may also be the cause.  Ensure it's being pressed in when you have the clutch pushed all the way in.

Edited July 24, 20196 yr by lmdew

Appreciate the reply. True, the engine is not turning over. The car is an automatic so no clutch. Do you think the neutral safety switch could be the issue? 

If you hear the , or feel with a helper turning the key, the starter solenoid pull-in, you have worn contacts and maybe plunger in the starter. Very common with older soobs. There are rebuild parts available. It is also very likely to be intermittent. Sometimes just whacking the starter with a piece of 2x4 a coupla times will let it start the car.

If the solenoid does not pull-in, then maybe bad N safety or even internally corroded battery cables ?

9 hours ago, MTsubyMatt0405 said:

Hi there. My 2000 subaru legacy has had issues starting recently and now won't at all. I can put the key in, turn and radio comes on as well as lights but car won't start. I could hook up jumper cables and it would start right away. The other day the jumping stopped working. The car still has lights and radio though. We tried a new ignition switch but didn't help. The starter is still fine as it reads fine on a multidigital meter. The battery reads good too. My neighbor took out the neutral safety switch thinking that might be done. Going to buy one tomorrow. Would anyone have suggestions on where to go from here? Anything is appreciated. Thank you. 

You need to verify the battery, cable, and starter first - these are the most common items by a looooooong shot:

*** Does it "click" when you turn the key to start it and it doesn't turn over?   

1. clean the battery posts where they touch the clamps
2. clean the terminal clamps on the inside
3. the starter contacts are bad.  $15 new contacts and you're done.  don't replace the starter with any aftermarket unit - they're all cheaply made and prone to failure down the road.  just replace the contacts.  if you have full battery voltage at the starter and no excessive resistance (corrosion/dirty) at the posts/terminals/cable - this is the most likely problem. 

https://smile.amazon.com/Victory-Lap-ND-34SOL-Solenoid-Repair/dp/B0031HMS7C/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=starter+contacts&pid=6xnCnSU&qid=1563977552&s=gateway&sr=1-1&vehicle=2002-13-66-162--1-6-6-204-108-1-1-2601--6&vehicleName=2002+Subaru+Outback

4.  This isn't as common as the above, but if there's tons of corrossion it can propogate up the battery cable inside the insulation where you can't see it and cause too much resistance for the starter but everything else works fine.  

Edited July 24, 20196 yr by idosubaru

Thank you for the reply. 

There is no click when you turn the key. We cleaned the posts and bought new clamps to put on. 

I will purchase starter contacts and give it a try. 

Thank you. 

49 minutes ago, MTsubyMatt0405 said:

Thank you for the reply. 

There is no click when you turn the key. We cleaned the posts and bought new clamps to put on. 

I will purchase starter contacts and give it a try. 

Thank you. 

There's probably proper ways of testing, I'm not an electrical testing guru but it's good to be able to test.  Maybe someone else will post. 

You can probably test resistance of the cable maybe?  

I've run a jumper cable right to the starter +12volt connection before for "testing" purposes - to make sure the starter is getting full amperage.  This assumes you've got a really good set of cables/connections and power supply.  It's possible to "read 12 volts" but not be able to pull enough amps for the starter if the cable/ground are the problem. 

It could be the starter itself. They have the solenoid rebuild kits you could try first. A sign it could be the starter is it it's intermittent or you have sometimes have to wait like 10 minutes and then it suddenly works.

Also a battery that is going out can cause the same symptoms. It may have have enough power for lights/accessories though not enough to turn over the starter. This can also be intermittent until it won't start at all though you'll have some power for accessories until it's completely drained. I'd get the battery tested at an auto parts store and/or try with another one that is of acceptable size for that vehicle.

Read voltage under load at the starter and going into the starter motor.

Load Pro.  Check it out on youtube.

Great tool.

while someone turns the key, whack the starter with a length of 2x4 or pipe youtube link

The classic Subaru no crank / no start.  When this conditions happens you need to perform this test.  Pull the thin black wire off the starter.  It is a spade connector.  Put your multimeter on that wire and see if you have 12 volts when you try to start the car.  I am guessing you don't.  If you do you have a bad starter.  If you don't welcome and get ready to jump into the rabbit hole.  If you wait 10 to 40 minutes do you notice the car starts up?

We just replaced the starter and no luck... Is the neutral safety switch an issue? What's next? Thanks! 

Perform the test I mentioned.  Do you have a factory security system?

When I test the hot wire it gets 12. Wire from ignition gets only 1 volt. 

No crank correct?   Where are you testing the ignition?  Describe what you are calling the hot wire.

Sorry, my buddy is the one working on the car I'm just trying to help figure out the issue. I'm not sure which wire he's referring to... He thinks it's the neutral safety switch that needs replaced next. You're saying "rabbit hole" which makes me think I should bring it to a professional. Appreciate your thoughys! 

 

you can pull the starter solenoid apart and look at the contacts - but for $15 you might as well install new ones while it's apart.  they'll be pitted and warn, not smooth and shiny copper. 

To rule out the neutral safety switch try starting the car in neutral.  Does it work?

1 hour ago, msmithmmx said:

To rule out the neutral safety switch try starting the car in neutral.  Does it work?

That does nothing if it's a Manual.  Manual starter lockout is done through the clutch pedal switch. (the bottom one, normally open until clutch depressed), and a interlocking relay.

MTsubyMATT, is the car a Manual or Auto?

Have you tried giving 12v to the small terminal on the starter?  If that makes the starter turn, then the problem is in the IG switch circuit.

To troubleshoot that, we need to know if it's a manual or an Auto?

 

***nevermind I just re-read....It's an Auto.

In that case, the problem is either in the P/N interlock switch.  ("Neutral Saftey Switch", isn't a thing on Subaru's) Or in the IG switch itself.

Test for voltage on the small spaded wire to teh starter WHILE TURNING THE KEY.  If it has less than 12v+ the switch is failing.  If it has nothing at all, may be hte P/N interlock.  Testing would need to be done at the large square connector on top of the trans the the selector/switch assembly.  There are only 2 large wires in that connector, one comes from IG switch, the olther goes out to starter.

 

Edited July 25, 20196 yr by FerGloyale