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Hi all! Just recently purchased a 1993 Subaru Loyale Wagon from a single owner. The beautiful green box is a 5 speed manual (which is very new to me). I have only had 3 hours of seat time, but have already fallen in love with the car.

There is currently a check engine light on and I cannot figure out how to the check codes! I have done a moderate amount of searching to find out that the diagnostic connectors are green and on the drivers side in the engine bay. When I plug those green connectors together the check engine light goes away and does not flash. I was under the impression the light would start flashing at me.

I have only done moderate car work on 2005 saturn ions. So I am new to most mechanical endeavors, but cant wait to put some blood, sweat and tears into this ea82. Im sure this is some simple issue, but my mind is all over the place. This OBD1 business makes my head hurt :)

Also I was wondering if anyone could tell me some average idle RPMs for the 1993 loyale manual transmission. It was stable around 1k the first week I drove it but sometimes sticks closer to 500.

Thanks!! Sorry if this is readily available information.

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Congrats on finding a 1 owner Loyale! Thats totally sweet. Mine is all rusty but I still love it and it runs great.

To read CEL codes, yes you plug in the green connectors. Then you have to take off the panel directly under the steering wheel to get a visual on the ECM. There's a little hole on the top that you can see a red LED which flashes your code. Kinda a pain in the butt to get your head in there to read it. Here's a paste of Loyale CEL codes. Not sure where I found this but it has proven accurate for my rig.

88 and later models with Single-Point Fuel Injection


Crank angle sensor or circuit


Starter switch or circuit


Crank angle sensor or circuit


Fuel injector – abnormal output


Coolant temperature or circuit


Air flow meter or circuit


Air control valve or circuit


Throttle sensor or circuit


Oxygen sensor or circuit


Vehicle Speed Sensor or circuit


EGR solenoid or circuit


Purge control solenoid or circuit


Idle switch or circuit


Kick-down control relay or circuit


Neutral switch continuously in the on position


EGR temperature sensor or circuit


Parking switch or circuit


So far, I've had codes 34, 32, and 21. All fixed now without too much trouble or cost, except wrenching the extremely stuck O2 sensor out. 

As for RPMs, those can change quite a bit depending on the engine temp. If its below freezing and I drive right away without any warm up, the first couple stop signs it will idle as high as 2k. Once it's warmed up, the spec is 700rpm for idle with the test mode connectors and no accessories. 

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When a code is currently upsetting the ECU, you don't have to mess with the connectors.  Just read the code/s.

If the idle is all over the place, the CTS may be failing.   It won't cause the CEL to light until it is really bad, but the car will run crummy long before that.  The CTS is a 2 wire sensor on the intake manifold near the thermostat. 

Plan on getting familiar with doing your own repairs, and keep an eye out for parts cars, spare parts, etc. As more go NLA every day.

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The unstable idle can be a sticky IAC (Idle Air Control).  This is the ECU controlled valve that bypasses air past the throttle to control the idle speed.  It is the cylinder in front of the throttle body.  If you can get some carb cleaner in there, through the air inlet hose,  it might help.

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DanielsHardLoyale   Maybe I have a fix for your problem if it is the same problem I had with my 1991 Loyale. If cel comes on and shows code 34 then it might be a bad IC chip inside the ECM module. I replaced that chip in my car and cel went away. Been two years now with no cel. There is a reference voltage that the egr solenoid needs from the ECM in order to give the AOK to the ECM. I checked reference voltage at egr solenoid and it was way below normal, showing 6 or 7 volts when  it should have read 11 volts. The first IC in the ECM is where the egr solenoid will trace to. Remove ECM box and open it up. It is a 10 pin IC that handles routing. It was 5 ICs for 10 buck [China] . Chip is dead easy to desolder and swap out as it is NOT SMD.  If you get intermittent cel w code 34 , don't waste 40 bucks on another eger solenoid. Contact me and I'll send you one of my extra chips for cost of mailing.   


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