FYI: I figured out this morning why the RX won't run but didn't have time to fix it before work (glad I own two cars...lol ). I had previously "fixed" my air intake boot crack with a rubber boot and metal clamp setup over the turbo inlet side of the boot. Since, you have to slightly rotate the whole intake setup toward the front of the car to install a cone filter, it partly "undid" my fix and exposed the damaged part of the intake boot...d'oh...hehe

 

...we now return you to the resolution of other people's surging issues, already in progress...

I had a very similar problem with my turbo and it turned out to be the knock sensor. Try replacing that. They're fairly inexpensive from subaru.

I unplugged the knock sensor and it still did it.

 

 

One thing I forgot to mention, you know the cluster of wires that goes from the distributor over to the strut tower area on teh passenger side? Well, when I first got it running, those wires somehow ended up across the turbo and melted. It was around this time I noticed the surging. Could it have fried something that thsoe wires go to that is causing the surging?? Fuel cut off????

it could easily be the fried wires. Have you checked the computer for codes?

Also, you cannot check the knock sensor by unplugging it. That tells the computer the same thing as if the sensor is bad. You have to go thru the trouble of replacing it.

 

Sorry for the bad news.

 

First, check for codes. Next fix the wires. Last replace the knock sensor.

 

email me if you have any questions

mdjdc@direcway.com

my friend had that problem and yonked the o2 sensor out and it ran fine. but i think his sensor was causin the surging so he just unpluged it.

Okay.. I put the old motor back in and it still does it (BUT it doesn't piddle oil everywhere, and no more cracked heads!) I swapped out the ignition coil, and I unplugged the knock control unit, neither of which helped. My next step is to swap out the ECM as I have another one. I have also swapped out the fuel pump and changed the fuel filter, neither of which seemed to do any good either. I discovered that with it sitting in my driveway, if I floor it, it will hit about 4500RPM and will spit and sputter almost like a rev limiter but not quite as smooth, any ideas? Could it be the ECM? I have another one I just have to FIND the darn thing.... It IS drivable, it just surges real bad when you stand on it, but if you granny it it seems to do okay (but it is soo hard to granny a turbo car...)

Unplugging the knock sensor tells the ECM that the timing needs to be retarded and yu will get the same problem as you describe. Replace the knock sensor and then try to run it. I had the same problem on my wifes car and the connector for the sensor had gone bad. I spliced in a new plug and the problem has dissappeared. I also had this problem on my turbo and I replaced the sensor and the problem wnet away.

 

 

Good luck

Unplugging the knock sensor tells the ECM that the timing needs to be retarded and yu will get the same problem as you describe. Replace the knock sensor and then try to run it. I had the same problem on my wifes car and the connector for the sensor had gone bad. I spliced in a new plug and the problem has dissappeared. I also had this problem on my turbo and I replaced the sensor and the problem wnet away.

 

 

Good luck

 

I didnt' unplug the knock sensor, I unplugged the knock control unit. It's not the knock sensor because it did it with the old engine, which had a different knock sensor. so basically I am perty sure it is something on the CAR and not on the ENGINE, and I don't think it is the distrubutor because it did it with the other distributor as well. I suspected the knock control unit but unplugging it should have made it go away (and by knock control unit I mean the box in the fender well, not the knock sensor.)

did you check the GAS TANK yet......?????????????

hmm funny i have no surge problems now

I still am going with the idea of the wires melting hurting something... I know it sucks, but I say swap the good parts into a turbo wagon body. I know you are heading off to Wyoming, but who knows if I come across a good wagon body I may be able to stick the good parts into it for y'all. When I get some time that is and get my projects outta here.

well dingling friggin put a different battery in it cause he had a crap battery in it and it went away....the alternator is fried though, go figure

well dingling friggin put a different battery in it cause he had a crap battery in it and it went away....the alternator is fried though, go figure

I have a 87 GL Wagon Turbo Auto doing the same thing. I have long suspected Electrical Issues. I first experienced the problem and noticed the Positive Lead on the Alternator was fried. The car ran fine for ahwhile after replacing the Connector. It ran fine for ahwhile but then problems with the battery terminals were causing problems. I replaced the terminals, which helped but the car still bucks if it is moving at all. It will idle fine indefinatly, but then if I try to drive it bucks as you have described. The guy I got the car from says that the previous owner said it was the overflow wastegate valve? I have not been able to track down this guy to find out what it is. But if I do then I will be sure to followup. Hope someone solves this, so that I can get mine going.Thanks

I think the correct term is ding-a-ling.

So it was a bad battery?

Funny thing is, it NEVER did it with the old motor! And when it first did it it was quite mild, just a ligth surging that it would do after a while at like, 1/3 throttle or more, and if I changed gears or backed out of it and then got on it again it would be fine. Then I drove it around teh block like, a week ago and it was REAL bad. Can't give it any throttle at all... GRRR this is irritating! I guess I'll check the tank first and go from there...

r u a bible basher or wat man jesus died a long time ago

dos a wee ECS warning light cum on when it surgis cos mine used 2 do it it was somthing funy wif da electrix i gav the flow meter a wak and it cut it out it stil felt like it was a gas relatid problim tho

i read all his post but cant seem to find it, what was the problem in the end?

r u a bible basher or wat man jesus died a long time ago

 

HUH? What's that got to do with his engine problems?

That is what I'm trying to figure out too.

r u a bible basher or wat man jesus died a long time ago

 

BTW Good Sir, you're not as funny as you think you are. This is not the place to make fun of people's religious beliefs. If you want to do that, I'm sure there is a forum somewhere else for that. If the rest of the members on this fine automotive forum can peacefully co-exist without making fun of any members sex, race, or religious beliefs, then I believe that it applies to you too. This is your only warning. Don't behave like that here.

 

Patrick

This is another response from gravilboy to a question someone asked about differentiating between 2wd and 4wd:

 

have u ever changed a spare wheel my grand ma knows more than that and shes blind just look under the car if it has a dif at the rear its 4wd

 

My view of a message board such as this is that its purpose is to allow people to collaborate on a hobby/passion they have in common. Demeaning others because they don't know something we think we do is not in the spirit of cooperation and does not add anything positive to this very fine and useful message board.

Ok, Sorry to drag up an old thread but I have having the same problem. My altinator was know to be bad, charging to 18 volts when cold outside. Long story short changed the altinator and no more cutting out.

 

Repeat!!!!

 

changed the altinator and problem solved!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I guess the ecu doesn't like fluctuations in the voltage at all.

 

Change your altinator!!!!!!!

Actually, it ended up being a loose distrubutor cap I still have the car too, once I paint it and put a new windsheild in it it'll be for sale :-P Has a new ECU too (Dad found out the hard way his big battery charger/engine starter is not ECU friendly...)

What the