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Ok, that makes sense. 

Being how little room i have in there to put it back together, would lock tight be a good idea on the rod nuts?

Any other "might as wells" while i have everything apart? I already did all the head work following other posts mostly posts from GD, and others 

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4 hours ago, nicksubaru said:

For the heads, this is how everyone does it? 

Screenshot_2020-10-23-21-05-28.png

Yep. Clean all mating surfaces first (except the HGs - they come straight from the bag onto the prepped block deck face).

Follow that procedure and you can’t go wrong. 

Cheers 

Bennie

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  • 5 weeks later...

I personally dont like it when a post never cames to a conclusion, so... For anyone who reads this in the future.

 

The car runs great and i followed what i was told on here except for one thing. I very lightly polished the crank surface and put in a new stock size bearing for the one rod. I used a shoe lace wrapped around and cut to size 800 grit then 1000 grit sandpaper, and wd-40 for lub. I did not go down to where all the groves were gone. And it was a complete gamble and a half. Also im running full sync oil. But as of a about 2000+ miles the car runs better then i have seen any of my cars before. So i am very happy. Not sure if i said fully all that i did. But i hot water pressure washed the inside and out of the block resealed every single thing other then spit the block halfs. Polish the combustion camber to 1000 grit. Same of the piston tops and valves. Lap the valves. Port and polish intake and exhaust to 320 grit. Full gasket, seals, and rtv ulta black where needed. Resurfaced the heads with the glass top and sandpaper to 320.Put it all back together.

 

Thank you all for your help in making decisions. And all the great info. 

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Yes. Only because it was on #4(left, back if looking at the front)(see previous post for pictures) the hardest part was removing the rod without fully removing the piston, and the rod nuts. The 1st nut was easy. The 2nd one... Well i used a small ratchet 1/2 a click turn and had to reset it each time. That took a while on and off. But the buff part was easy. I just took off the high parts but didn't go all the way down the lows on the crank surface. No way of measuring roundness or anything. Completely shot in the dark. I do not recommend anyone trying this. I only did because its on a 2nd car that i dont depend on and i have AAA towing if the wrost should happen. But as of now it's been a great running car. 

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This little project was more time then money. Being that i did all the work myself in the front driveway under a shade tree, And a tailgate of a pickup. Motor sat on a tire and 2 4x4 wood blocks. (wish i had a motor stand, but covid-19 made the stores around me not stock them for some reason) 

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31 minutes ago, nicksubaru said:

This little project was more time then money. Being that i did all the work myself in the front driveway under a shade tree, And a tailgate of a pickup. Motor sat on a tire and 2 4x4 wood blocks. (wish i had a motor stand, but covid-19 made the stores around me not stock them for some reason) 

Beast.  Those make for good stories and learning experiences. If I did this it would be the same - an extra car for me and no one else. 

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31 minutes ago, nicksubaru said:

This little project was more time then money. Being that i did all the work myself in the front driveway under a shade tree, And a tailgate of a pickup. Motor sat on a tire and 2 4x4 wood blocks. (wish i had a motor stand, but covid-19 made the stores around me not stock them for some reason) 

Beast.  Those make for good stories and learning experiences. If I did this it would be the same - an extra car for me and no one else. 

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