Should I buy an 04 Subaru Legacy?

[firehawk89]

Its an 2004 Subaru Legacy L 35th anniversary edition, automatic 2.4L H4 it has 108,735 miles and there asking $5,999 for it.

Ive never owned a Subaru so I need some help.

[heartless]

no such thing as a Subaru 2.4L - will be a 2.5

and for my money.. nearly $6k for a 17 yr old vehicle is a bit steep - even for a special edition model. KBB puts it more in the $3500-4000 range.

that said.. that generation was prone to headgasket issues, and at that mileage i would want definitive proof that it has had a full timing service as well - not just a belt.

If there is proof that both of those issues have been addressed, then yeah, maybe, for a lower price... considering your location, i would be very carefully checking the undercarriage for rust... the plastic lower body panels hide a lot.

 

[idosubaru]

I wouldn’t pay that premium price unless you can verify some timing belt or head gasket history  

Keep in mind - There’s no meaningful difference between the engine and trans and struts and brakes between 108k and 140k on a car that old so don’t pay a premium just for the mileage numbers to be lower.  Lower mileage matters on a collectible or newer car, like 2017, but not a nearly 20 year old car.  By that age the mileage isn’t a reliable indicator of the mechanical systems  

1. It needs a new timing belt kit - belt and pulleys (one pulley in particular). *not just the belt*.  Most shops don’t replace the (that) pulley.   

if the belt or a pulley fails you’ll need a new engine or $$$$$ valve job and you’ll end up $10,000 in the hole on this car. Not worth it.   It’s an easy job (2 hours) and $300-$700 at a shop. Use subaru parts only  

2. Also headgaskets - check condition and maintenance history or for signs of any recent coolant work that suggest they’re chasing an issue. Many have already been replaced - fit me out by who and try to determine if it was done correctly with Subaru parts. 

[idosubaru]

I wouldn’t pay that premium price unless you can verify some timing belt or head gasket history  

Keep in mind - There’s no meaningful difference between the engine and trans and struts and brakes between 108k and 140k on a car that old so don’t pay a premium just for the mileage numbers to be lower.  Lower mileage matters on a collectible or newer car, like 2017, but not a nearly 20 year old car.  By that age the mileage isn’t a reliable indicator of the mechanical systems  

1. It needs a new timing belt kit - belt and pulleys (one pulley in particular). *not just the belt*.  Most shops don’t replace the (that) pulley.   

if the belt or a pulley fails you’ll need a new engine or $$$$$ valve job and you’ll end up $10,000 in the hole on this car. Not worth it.   It’s an easy job (2 hours) and $300-$700 at a shop. Use subaru parts only  

2. Also headgaskets - check condition and maintenance history or for signs of any recent coolant work that suggest they’re chasing an issue. Many have already been replaced - fit me out by who and try to determine if it was done correctly with Subaru parts. 
 

for that price I’d see if I can find a $3,000 example and have the headgaskets and timing belt done how I want it. $2,000-$3,000 for a proper job and you end up paying the same amount (maybe a littlr less) for a more reliable vehicle

[firehawk89]

Thank you for the help, do have a Subaru you can recommend I have a budget of under 10k

[Numbchux]

Prices are crazy this year. Shop around, that's a premium price, but might not be completely out of line.

 

Inspect it, thoroughly. Low miles on an old car means it's been sitting a lot. If it was in a garage and only driven on nice days, it's probably in fantastic shape, if it was in a field in the summer and driven hard in the winter, it'll be nothing but problems. I have an '01 Forester with 97k on it that I'm rehabilitating, and the rear suspension was rusty like a 200k mile car. I had to replace all the brake lines in the rear, etc.

As mentioned, make sure the timing belt has been done, and done correctly.

 

Take a look at the tag on the LH strut tower in the engine bay, it will have the complete engine code. California emissions cars in 2004 had a unique version of the 2.5 that is a bit more trouble to find parts for (especially if you need a complete engine). The California code will start with EJ259, where the others will be EJ251. 

 

[Ferret54]

In Md, On Carfax, I see 2 2012 Impreza Automatic 5 door ( wagon) under 10K. One near Aberdeen  https://www.carfax.com/vehicle/JF1GPAL67CH229450 , the other near Annapolis https://www.carfax.com/vehicle/JF1GPAS6XCH238984 . Either one gets you  into a NEWER vehicle away from the EJ25 headgasket issues.

Just to give you other newer options in your price range. Look around yourself.

[GeneralDisorder]

12 Impreza is going to have the bad piston ring's issue (severe oil consumption), and the early CVT valve body/torque converter issues. Both of which add up to more expense than doing the HG's on the EJ's. 

Personally I wouldn't buy ANYTHING made 2005 or newer. Too much complexity and closed-source intellectual property issues. Right-to-Repair..... etc. Stay the F*CK away from all of it is my recommendation. If you are mechanically inclined just slide on over to the old school GM platforms. At least you can get schematics and repair parts. 

Have the 2004 inspected. If needed replace the HG's with 770's and use proper Japanese timing components and a new radiator. Change all the fluids. Should go another 200k with proper maintenance. 

GD

Edited September 8, 2021 by GeneralDisorder

[Lightning Racer]

12 hours ago, Numbchux said:

Prices are crazy this year. Shop around, that's a premium price, but might not be completely out of line.

Yes. I bought close to the same car, a 2003 Legacy 5MT wagon with 150K miles, a couple years ago before things went crazy, for $2100. But to get that price, I had to check ads all over the country for over a month, and then jump immediately and buy it sight unseen off internet. If I saw the same car now, if it were completely rust free and mechanically sound, I'd certainly consider paying $6K.

Now that I have the car, I personally wouldn't part with it for less than $10K (not that anyone would pay close to that... but it's not for sale). I admit that Subaru wagons are cars that I would say are my favorite cars (also have a 1996, and used to have a Loyale), so I'm more willing to pay more. But it's also objectively a better car than my previous Prius that took me $10K to sort out (after buying for around $7K). I like it's driving characteristics, appearance/style, size, and utility (everything better than my Prius except gas mileage), and I have it basically close to perfect at this point (not a spot of rust, completely dry/tight underneath, refreshed suspension, sticky tires, new clutch). I expect it will outlast me (only 52, but I don't put in a lot of driving miles).

I also avoid anything newer than 2005 (GD's influence on this forum a big part of that). For example TPMSs do no good for anyone that pays attention to things. It only annoys you with lights and then costs you a lot of extra money when you know the pressures are good and the sensors have gone bad. I'd pay to not have TPMSs on my car.