i have used some efi system cleaner, and done some checks for vaccum leaks, but i havent found any very obvious reason for this. after it warms up, it either, idles very low, and dies after coming down from higher rpms, or it pulsates at idle, bouncing from about 250, and 750.

tps, maf?

i have used some efi system cleaner, and done some checks for vaccum leaks, but i havent found any very obvious reason for this. after it warms up, it either, idles very low, and dies after coming down from higher rpms, or it pulsates at idle, bouncing from about 250, and 750.

tps, maf?

What ECU code does your car throw after it dies? Could be vacuum, ignition timing, low fuel pressure, etc. See if the ECU is reading something.

Sounds like a vacuum leak. Probably the purge valve stuck open.

not to jack another post, my 88 dl d/r 5sp wagon does just the opposite , starts up good but will die 5sec later , after it warms up it , it will idle ok, ecu code coolant temp sensor , i replaced the coolant temp sensor , still does the same thing, new fuel filter. acell coil, ngk plugs , k-n filter, new cap, rotor , it is also a spfi motor

not to jack another post, my 88 dl d/r 5sp wagon does just the opposite , starts up good but will die 5sec later , after it warms up it , it will idle ok, ecu code coolant temp sensor , i replaced the coolant temp sensor , still does the same thing, new fuel filter. acell coil, ngk plugs , k-n filter, new cap, rotor , it is also a spfi motor

If the code is still the fuel temp sensor, be sure your coolant level is high enough for it to read coolant temperature. Also, check out the coolant temp sensor plug connection. It may be corroded. You would see a 'fuzzy, greenish' bacteria/fungus covering the metal like it was some fungus in a coral reef. Sometimes this greenish stuff will form on your wires by the connetor but you'd have to remove the wire cover to see it.

 

If you do notice this green stuff, use sandpaper to sand it down. I haven't found a spray bottle of stuff to spray on and remove it. Sand it down until it's light covering or completely gone. Then cover the metal with dielectric grease to help ease reformation or corrosion.

 

This is from my and some other's experience with the water temp sensor on the XT6.

faulty TPS? Doesnt rely fully on the TPS untill its at temp and the ECU switches modes right?

 

How does the ER27 handel air flow for ideling? Is there an IAC of some sort? Or a choke mechanizim thats staying open?

Check your air flow meter. Sounds like your running in limp home mode. It will do this. I had the very same problem a few months ago, and it turned out that the signal wire from the MAF was broken at the connector, so the computer didn't get any signal at all from it. Also, check your trouble codes, they will help you out most of the time.

oh one more symptom i just remembered, when its cruisin down the highway, and your not accelerating(wich is rare in this car) just tryin to hold a steady speed, it bucks... like almost dies, and stops making power. press on the pedal, or let off a bit, and it goes away, and runs normaly. im gonna pull some codes today, and see, but no check engine light has come on.

just fixed this this yesterday. i soldered new wires onto the coolant temp sensor, the wires were green, and the plug was shot, so soldered them on, and it works great now.

Where is the sensor located? I havent got my FSM from my Ebay win yet, so I not real familiar with my XT6 yet.

And mine has been dieing when its warm and coasting. It dies, you turn the key off then back on, and it starts agian with no problem. Sometimes when you come to a stop, the idle drops way down and wants to die then too. Pump the gas a little and it stops doing it.

 

But I tell you what I am getting real familiar with.

My original front bumper is a little rough, so I got one from the PAP. It was easy in the yard, most of it was already disconnected by somebody else But I tell you what, this thing is the biggest PITA I have ever dealt with on a Soob. The bolts on the side skirt are darn near impossible to get to.

Sorry for the HJ, had to rant :-\

man tell me about it. that bumper is the worst ever. its in front, behind and to the left of the alternator. two wires going to it. brass, about the only one up there. you can also just clean the pins, and the connector, but my connnector was very loose, and green! =]

AS far as location goes. You'll notice the car has 2 radiator caps. one drivers side on the rad, and the other pass is on the top front of the motor. If you look at the "coolant manifold", right next to the pass side rad cap, theres the temp sensor.

Hope thats not confusing.....:-\

I went out with a flashlight and looked right after his post. Its the only one there, not hard to see at all. I will pull it off and inspect everything tomorrow. I still need to finish that @#$% front bumper, headlight bucket, and hood replacement.

lookin for my issues with both my xt6s, i thought i fixed this problem, but it only left for a little bit, so i bet i never realy fixed it.