i have gotten my hubs i need , now i need to know the way you all have found center on your lug holes when you have the hub bolted on to the rim.....anyone????

I used a drill stop that fit into the lug hole perfectly. Marked the holes and drilled away. Make sure you use a new bit and use cutting oil so that the holes will stay tight. Otherwise, the studs will be loose.

i have gotten my hubs i need , now i need to know the way you all have found center on your lug holes when you have the hub bolted on to the rim.....anyone????

I have a set of different diameter center punches that could be used for something like this, but I could suggest how to do this with a compass and protractor if you don't have those. I made an aluminum drilling guide for my rims with a CNC milling machine, but if you have a block of wood you could use that as well. Just draw a circle that is 140mm across, then draw a line straight across the center point of the circle that intersects both sides of the circle. Now use the protractor to make another line across the circle at 90 degrees to the first line. This will make the centers of the existing bolt studs on your hubs. Drill at the four intersecting points with a bit the same size as the lugs and you should have a board that will slide over the hub. At this point you want to lay out where the new holes will be centered. Use the protractor to mark 60 degrees away from a line between the center of the circle and the lugs you are going to leave attached to the hub. Drill your wooden guide with something the same diameter as your punch so it can slide into the hole and mark the center, or just use a really small drill bit and use the drill to mark the center on your hub. A drill press or drill guide to help keep the drill square to the drill guide would be a help, or stand something square next to the drill to help aid alignment.

 

Hopefully this rough drawing will help clarify.

 

 

 

- James B

i did not think in those terms, thanks,brian

I just used a punch with the rim mounted to the hub and eyeballed the center for each lug, punched it, pulled the rim off and drilled. As said earlier tapping fluid is your friend, much cheaper than buying multiple bits.

Do we use toyota 15" rims for that conversion, which ones exactly........gonna do this once i get my lift, thats after the EJ22 swap of course:brow:

Just regular Toy 6 lugs.. 15x6, 15x7 etc etc etc.. whatever you find. The lug pattern is the same as long as it has 6 holes. Look for rims like in the pic below.. they're the most common. 15x6.

 

Just pop the two lugs out, mount the rim to te hub with the two aligned studs, then use nail polish/grease pencil to mark the four other holes. Just drill into the hub till theres no paint/pencil left.

 

If you are going with 9.5" or wider I would use 80's toy rims, 4runner's or pu. For my 10.5's the earlier toy rims didn't have enough offset and had to much backspacing.

chevy six lug is what i have. new they are about 25 bones apeice.i got mine from a friend that had them lying around.nissan , mazda,toyota,mitsubishi, and isuzu 6 lugs are all the same.i know that the chevy six lugs have good backspacing and will work for this application.i also have some toyota rims that i got but i did not like the backspacing on them.the toyota rim i put on had a 235 75 15 on it , i mounted in the font and did not like the looks of it under there.the chevy rims will afford me a little better clearance on the strut towers.and they will give me a "toy" truck look which is what i wanted as far as looks are concerned.as far as functionalit , i will have to trim a little more even with 28 inchers for clearance but that is okay with me......you can get 14 or 15 inch rims from any of the vehicles i mentioned.the ifo i have stated has only been tested as far as mixing and matching lug patterns at the j.y..the backspacing is up to you to figure out.i know that pugs are something crazy like 4.5 inches of backspacing so i figure anything under that should clear.wheww.....that was a mouthful:grin:

That's what I'm talk'n about! Using the rim bolted to the hub as your jig. Try drawing those fancy lines and angles at the proper degrees on your hub :-p Dudes who made the rims already did it for you

 

I did just the oposite for my full size spare. Punched out 2 sutds. Bolted the rim to an old drum brake hub. Then drilled through the rim using the hols in the hub as my guide. Taiperd the holes in the rim slightly so the lug nuts seat well.

that has got to be the most bi**hin conversion ive heard yet. lucky thing is, ive two sets of factory chev alloys sitting at parents place that i can snag. also, think about using the backing plate for the front discs to mount your full size spare since it wont fit in the engine compartment? weld it to a frame on the back of the custom bumper youre making? ill get some pics of the bumper/body armor setup ive got on my "86. i havent seen anyone do anything like it yet.......

but then you have to look at those 2 unused holes.......ickypoo. but to each his own i guess.

 

 

 

 

~Josh~

you don't have to look at them unless in your hanging out inside sitting on your axle ....

but then you have to look at those 2 unused holes.......ickypoo. but to each his own i guess.

You'd only see extra holes if you decided to drill through the rim to make it mount of the Subie 4lug pattern.

 

Otherwise, if you do the hubs instead of the rim, it will look like it came from the factory with 6 lugs. See the attachments. The six lugs silver wheel is mine (1st pic), and the white wheel is McBrat's Chevy 5 lug wheels redrilled for the 4 lug Subie pattern (2nd pic).

thats a good idea morgan,i had an extra 6 lug lying around and i cut out the center of it.here it is mounted to a hub....

Heh.. Morgan's idea is the inverse.. using an old hub as a jig to be able to drill through the wheel. What you've done is also a great idea for those that prefer to drill hubs instead of wheels.

 

Either way, theres some excellent information being gathered in this thread.

you need an extra wheel raven?the one i cut up today has a brother that is not going to use.....should only cost a bit to ship it...