chilly b Posted September 22, 2005 Share Posted September 22, 2005 Hi all - Hoping you can help me figure out whether I have a problem with my alternator. This morning, on my way into work, the battery charge light and brake light came on. This happened after I'd been on the road about 30 minutes. I did a quick search of the board and it seems that this is a good indication of imminent alternator failure. But... Yesterday I installed a new stereo head unit, amplifier and new car alarm system. Also had the guys replace a broken driver's side door pin switch. Any possibility that any of this electrical work has led to the warning lights coming on? I need to know asap because if it's something the audio guys did, I want them to fix it pronto but if its got nothing to do with them, obviously I don't want to be an rump roast, blaming them for something unrelated to their work. Assuming that it is the alternator, am I still eligible for the alternator recall (and, if so, what are the logistics)?: 1997 SUBARU LEGACY ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:ALTERNATOR/GENERATOR/REGULATOR Recall Date: MAY 15, 2000 Summary: THIS IS NOT A SAFETY RECALL IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE SAFETY ACT. HOWEVER, IT IS DEEMED A SAFETY IMPROVEMENT CAMPAIGN BY THE AGENCY. VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: PASSENGER VEHICLES. SOME OF THESE VEHICLES HAVE AN ALTERNATOR PROBLEM THAT CAN RESULT IN A LOSS OF CHARGING CAPABILITY. Consequence: IF THE ALTERNATOR FAILS, THE ALTERNATOR WARNING TELLTALE WILL ALERT THE DRIVER TO THE PROBLEM, GIVING AMPLE OPPORTUNITY TO SEEK REPAIR BEFORE A LOSS OF BATTERY POWER, WHICH, IF THE WARNING WERE IGNORED, COULD ULTIMATELY RESULT IN A LOSS OF VEHICLE POWER (ENGINE STALL). Remedy: DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE ALTERNATOR WITH A MODIFIED ALTERNATOR. OWNERS WILL ALSO BE CAUTIONED THAT, SHOULD THE ALTERNATOR TELLTALE WARNING LAMP ILLUMINATE, THEY MUST SEEK IMMEDIATE REPAIR TO AVOID THE EVENTUAL LOSS OF ELECTRICAL POWER, WHICH COULD RESULT IN AN ENGINE STALL. Potential Units Affected: 223520 Notes: SUBARU OF AMERICA, INC. Thanks! Maybe I just need a new battery? (this was flagged by the mechanic when he did the pre-purchase inspection three weeks ago.) Also, what risks am I running by driving the car while the battery charge light is on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortlid Posted September 22, 2005 Share Posted September 22, 2005 You did not post what year and model Roo you had. The recall on the alternator was replace BEFORE you have a problem!! So, that stuff you installed but more STRAIN on a faulty alternator. Gte it replaced for free either way! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chilly b Posted September 22, 2005 Author Share Posted September 22, 2005 I have a '97 Legacy Outback. So, how exactly to I go about getting this replaced "for free" under the protection of the recall? Does it matter that I only bought the car two weeks ago and was not the owner of the car when the recall was announced? (I have no idea what the "rules" of recalls are) Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted September 22, 2005 Share Posted September 22, 2005 I doubt that the installers had anything to do with this unless there is a loose connection somewhere to the alternator. Here is something that may help you though I see you have most the info already. Check in with your local dealer. http://auto-recalls.justia.com/content/00I002000-SUBARU-LEGACY-1997.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chilly b Posted September 22, 2005 Author Share Posted September 22, 2005 Checked with the dealer. Turns out the alternator had already been replaced "sometime in the past" by the previous owner. Speaking with the dealer, he suspects that all the new electrical equipment (head unit, amp, alarm system) is putting a strain on an old battery and he recommends I just buy a new battery. As I mentioned early, a mechanic recommended the same thing three weeks, when doing the pre-purchase inspection. So here's my question this afternoon. Spoke with the audio folks. They sell a battery called the Optima Yellowtop for $150. That's a pricey battery! Did an internet check and that's actually a good price for it. Anyone here know about this battery? It's supposed to be good for cars that have a lot of electrical draw on the system. But is this overkill for me? Need to know quickly, as I want to have a new battery in the car while the sun's still shining out here in California. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted September 22, 2005 Share Posted September 22, 2005 I would just by a plain ol 60 month battery, not one of the top of the line batteries. I have yet to see any differnce between a 150.00 battery and a 70.00 battery. I also think its just all coincidence that everything went poof at the same time. Sometimes stuff happens. How old is the battery in the car. Does the battery still look square, or is it bulging slightly. Unless the amplifier is running 100's of watts ... i wouldnt be convinced. Also wattage on output of amplifiers is purly subjective of the mfg. I'ld just get a battery from someplace else . Last place to buy a battery or altenator is a stero store. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chilly b Posted September 23, 2005 Author Share Posted September 23, 2005 Too late. While driving down the highway on the way to the audio shop to have them check the electrical connections, the car essentially died on the highway. No, it didn't completely stall but in quick succession most of the instrument panel warning lights came on, the instrument gauges stopped working, the stereo conked out, the A/C stopped, even the hazards and turn signals stopped working, and the car wouldn't go more than 5 miles an hour. Needless to say, I was alarmed. I limped along to the audio shop, they confirmed that the problem seemed to be a ************ty battery (with a Jan 04 manufactured date!) and I decided, screw it, just put in the Optima and be done with it. So they slapped it in and 20 minutes later (and $150 lighter), everything was working again and I was back in business. Could I have just gone to a local auto shop and bought a $70 battery that was just as good. Maybe. But, given that I found out yesterday that the $600 DIY job I was about to do had already been done a year ago (but forgotten by the previous owner), I don't mind potentially wasting an extra $70-$80 for piece of mind. Yes, the Optima may be overkill for my car right now but at least I know I can depend on it. And Tahoe ski season is just around the corner. And I'm not concerned about having bought the battery at an audio shop. As I said earlier, I checked the internet and $150 is actually a good price for the battery. Especially given that I needed the damned thing right now. Plus, the audio shop folks won't forget this when I come back for a subwoofer...and another amp. That's my news for the day. Thanks everyone for the input! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted September 23, 2005 Share Posted September 23, 2005 Now what will you do if you still get tell tale lights when you get the battery replaced? Glowing idiot lights are usually the sign of a faulty alternator. Have the system checked by an honest shop before you buy a battery or alternator or both. Most autoparts stores will check your charging system and battery for free. Of course they all want to sell you something, so I'd consider having it done by two or three places and going with the place that appears the most honest. If the idiot lights are glowing, it is almost always the alternator that's at fault. Next, the only purpose for your battery is to start the car. Once the car is started, everything runs off the alternator. If the alternator is not charging, the battery carries the load until everything electrical stops. So, frankly, I don't believe your battery is at fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chilly b Posted September 23, 2005 Author Share Posted September 23, 2005 Now what will you do if you still get tell tale lights when you get the battery replaced? But that's my point. I replaced the battery and the "glowing idiot lights" are gone. Are you saying that it's possible that there remains an alternator problem that is being "masked" by now having a fully charged (but slowly draining) battery in the car? Let's assume for the moment that that's the case. How would I check out the truth of that? In any event, the battery needed to be replaced anyway so, even if there is a larger problem lurking elsewhere, as far as this afternoon goes, worst case is that I spent $70-$80 more on a battery than I needed. That's not a small amount of money, no, but I'm also not going to get completely bent out of shape about it. Because, like I said, a new battery of some kind needed to be put in there anyway. But let's say you're right and there actually is an undiagnosed alternator problem. Given that there's a new high-powered battery in the car, when and how will the problem show up? What should I be on the alert for in terms of first signs? In short, other than waiting for the idiot lights to begin blinking again, how do I tell whether my alternator is working? Thanks for the input! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted September 23, 2005 Share Posted September 23, 2005 Go to an autopart store and let them do a free load test. You can stand right next to them and watch the meter yourself to see what it says, so you wont feel like your getting snowed. yes it is still possible you have an altnator issue. The meter on the load testor is easy to read, its pass/fail. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chilly b Posted September 23, 2005 Author Share Posted September 23, 2005 Go to an autopart store and let them do a free load test. Alright, I'll go do it right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted September 23, 2005 Share Posted September 23, 2005 I can't argue with success. I'm glad you're up and running. If you do a search of "glowing idiot lights" you'll find a number of threads that point to a faulty alternator. Right now, I wouldn't worry about it unless the lights started glowing again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted September 23, 2005 Share Posted September 23, 2005 Is it possible the audio work was begun before the battery was disconnected and they shorted something - maybe taking out a diode pack? I will say batteries can fail in some odd ways - at least here in Texas they rarely last for more than 3-4 years due to the heat. I did have a battery last almost 5 years once - a Yuasa in my Civic wagon. Now I try to buy the Autozone 'Gold'/whatever, already had one full replacement on a daughter's car doing that. Died 3 months before the 3 year full replacement was up. Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted September 23, 2005 Share Posted September 23, 2005 I think an intermittent shorted cell could have caused this problem. Now that he has the new battery it will be good to have the alternator checked out also so there won't be future trouble. There are some folks here that have the Optima in their car. They are good batteries no doubt. The only thing is the price. You can buy at least 2 excellent batteries for the same price and they will probably last you a total of 12 years or more depending on the situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted September 23, 2005 Share Posted September 23, 2005 The only place i can see the advantage to the Optima Yellowtop is if you are are always driving over rough Roads. They seem to be immune from vibration, which will kill a battery as faster then texas heat (granted its slow death). Otherwise they are extreem overkill for normal car use. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chilly b Posted September 23, 2005 Author Share Posted September 23, 2005 Thanks for all the input. Took the car to a local auto parts store (Kragen). They did the load test and the alternator came up "normal". So, it looks like the trouble was, in fact, with the battery. Whew. Did I buy more battery than I need? Yeah, probably. But, at some point in the near future, I may install another amp to power a subwoofer and will be thankful for the extra juice. Plus, call me crazy, but the stereo now seems louder than before, as if the amp was being pushed with more power. Might be my imagination but if it's true, that's a sweet little bonus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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