QuackAttack Posted October 5, 2005 Share Posted October 5, 2005 Ok so my '96 Outback has had this wierd electrical huming noise, the battery light is on then off and back on again, and when you depress the brakes(abs) all the dash power dies and then comes back on. From searching on this forum it looks like I need a new Alt? right? How could I do this myself? I would love to not have to take it to the dealer and pay 400.00 dollars in repairs. Any help or advice much appreciated!, or if you know of a good shop in Portland, Oregon let me know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted October 5, 2005 Share Posted October 5, 2005 Altenator is easy, just really go get a rebuitl one, and if you need to a manual, unbolt it and replace it. Just dont overtighten the fan belt. It is almost a foolproof repair. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuackAttack Posted October 5, 2005 Author Share Posted October 5, 2005 Altenator is easy, just really go get a rebuitl one, and if you need to a manual, unbolt it and replace it. Just dont overtighten the fan belt. It is almost a foolproof repair. nipper I am totaly new at this, is there a manual on-line somewhere. Also 1stsubaruparts has one for around 70 bucks. Is that a good price? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted October 5, 2005 Share Posted October 5, 2005 I am totaly new at this, is there a manual on-line somewhere. Also 1stsubaruparts has one for around 70 bucks. Is that a good price? I might be tempted to take the alt off, run it down to Autozone or elsehwere and have it tested. That way; 1. you get to experience the procedure involved and 2. you get confirmation that the problem is the alt. If its bad, and Autozone pressures you to buy their alt (but you don't want to), you could say you only get OEM parts - but buy new belts or some car wax from them or otherwise support them. If it ISN'T bad, you'll know how to put it back on and that you need better diagnostic exam for the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuackAttack Posted October 5, 2005 Author Share Posted October 5, 2005 I had the alt tested at the Subaru Dealer about 1 month ago they said it was charging fine, someone said it might be the diodes are going or went bad. What are those? Can they be replaced? I just want to fix this and be able to listen to the radio again. Would giving it a new battery make any difference? Thanks for your help everyone, this place is awsome... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted October 5, 2005 Share Posted October 5, 2005 I had the alt tested at the Subaru Dealer about 1 month ago they said it was charging fine, someone said it might be the diodes are going or went bad. What are those? Can they be replaced? I just want to fix this and be able to listen to the radio again. Would giving it a new battery make any difference? Thanks for your help everyone, this place is awsome... Yeah, I was afraid it might NOT be the alternator. Can you pinpoint the humming at all? Could it be coming from the ABS relay under the hood? Did they read the computer codes? What codes were set? Will the problem not present itself often enough for a mechanic to troubleshoot for you? It may be difficult for you to make any observations that would help us guess the problem. Perhpas, someone on the board could recommend a good mechanic near you. I dunno Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted October 5, 2005 Share Posted October 5, 2005 Go to an autozone and ask them to do a battery load test/alt test for you (its usually free). The testcant be manipultted, its a simple gizmo, and you can watch them do it. It will tell you if the alt is goin bad or not. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuackAttack Posted October 5, 2005 Author Share Posted October 5, 2005 Yeah, I was afraid it might NOT be the alternator. Can you pinpoint the humming at all? Could it be coming from the ABS relay under the hood? Did they read the computer codes? What codes were set? Will the problem not present itself often enough for a mechanic to troubleshoot for you? It may be difficult for you to make any observations that would help us guess the problem. Perhpas, someone on the board could recommend a good mechanic near you. I dunno So the humming noise started a while ago, usaully with the ac or the radio on and the lights on. The noise is louder when the radi0 is on as it comes out of the speakers(only when radio was on). It sounds more like it is in the dash, and it is directly "in-sync" with the acceleration and shifthing of the car. Then one day when I pressed the breaks all the power to the dash dies and then within 1 sec omes back to life, dash lights illuminate and gagues drop to zero!?!? I have not had this problem once since not using the radio. But the "hum" is around when lights and seat heaters and ac is on. Then a few weeks ago the 'brake' light was on when I started the car and would not turn off when I realeased the e-brake. Once the car was warm or something and I touched the brakes, the light would go away. STRANGE STRANGE STRANGE, I don't know what to do... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted October 5, 2005 Share Posted October 5, 2005 You have a diode going bad in the alternator. Thast why you are getting weird electrical issues. Yes you can replace the diode, now do you want to spend the 2-3 hrs to rebuild the alt to do it? or just get the rebuilt alt and throw it in. Also sounds like you may have a bad brush in the alt too. Did i miss year/mileage on the car? There is another way to check .... disconnect the alt belt and start the car. If the noise goes away, you found your issue. If it didnt, you now know what it isnt. This is assuming you have a stong battery. Have you checked the battery voltage (with a real volt meter) with the car off and running and while reproducing the condition? nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuackAttack Posted October 5, 2005 Author Share Posted October 5, 2005 You have a diode going bad in the alternator. Thast why you are getting weird electrical issues. Yes you can replace the diode, now do you want to spend the 2-3 hrs to rebuild the alt to do it? or just get the rebuilt alt and throw it in. Also sounds like you may have a bad brush in the alt too. Did i miss year/mileage on the car? There is another way to check .... disconnect the alt belt and start the car. If the noise goes away, you found your issue. If it didnt, you now know what it isnt. This is assuming you have a stong battery. Have you checked the battery voltage (with a real volt meter) with the car off and running and while reproducing the condition? nipper It is a '96 and has about 147,000. I am going to look tonight to see if the lt has ever had problems before. I have not used a volt meter as I would not know where to place it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted October 5, 2005 Share Posted October 5, 2005 It is a '96 and has about 147,000. I am going to look tonight to see if the lt has ever had problems before. I have not used a volt meter as I would not know where to place it. Right at the battery. Test the voltage with the car off, and the car running. 12.5 - 13.5 volts should be at idle, a little lower with everything on. If you dont have one go to your freindly autoparts store and let them do it. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted October 6, 2005 Share Posted October 6, 2005 I think there's a possibility the brake light could be a low brake fluid issue. But the other does sound like an alt. or perhaps other electrical issue as you describe it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted October 6, 2005 Share Posted October 6, 2005 To prove that this problem is coming from the alternator all you have to do is disconnect the leads to it. If you do this, it is best to disconnect the battery first because the main lead to the alternator is hot to the battery and will short to ground if it touches ground. After the leads are removed from the alternator and isolated from ground then reconnect the battery and see if the problem has cleared. I think you will find it has. There is most likely a backfeed from the 'S' lead on the alternator due to a leaky diode. The alternator can be repaired but due to its age it may be better to get a rebuilt one. If you can get a Bosch I would go with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiny Clark Posted October 6, 2005 Share Posted October 6, 2005 Is the recall dead on this? I had mine changed under the recall about 2-3 years ago. Here's a simple load test you can do. Start the car, remove the negative battery cable. Turn on the headlights, heater fan on high and flashers. While the car is running, if it still is, run the tach up to about 4 grand. If everything runs OK, your alternator is fine. If not, it's Tango Uniform. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnuman Posted October 7, 2005 Share Posted October 7, 2005 I might be tempted to take the alt off, run it down to Autozone or elsehwere and have it tested. That way; 1. you get to experience the procedure involved and 2. you get confirmation that the problem is the alt. If its bad, and Autozone pressures you to buy their alt (but you don't want to), you could say you only get OEM parts - but buy new belts or some car wax from them or otherwise support them. If it ISN'T bad, you'll know how to put it back on and that you need better diagnostic exam for the problem. Actually, teh alt tester at autozone is all but worthless. It does not show what is happening under load. I just replaced an alt for a friend that the tester passed, but the alt was in fact bad (not putting out juice). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted October 7, 2005 Share Posted October 7, 2005 the off the car test is worthless, you want it done on the car if possible, but in all honesty, a good volt meter will tell you whats going on. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted October 7, 2005 Share Posted October 7, 2005 Does this car have any of those bulbs with dual elements in them? maybe there is a brake light bulb with a broken element drooping onto a turn signal/parking light element causing some weirdness. Just a wag but that can cause some odd symptoms. When the shop tested your alt. I wonder if they have a way to do it under load or look for excessive ripple if a diode pack is bad? I dunno Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squatty Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 QuackAttack - I do know of a very good little shop in the Portland area if you need it. Just a father and son operation that only do Subarus and have always treated me very, very well. It is up on Columbia Ave. in N. Potland area and they work out of their house. Very nice guys. Let me know... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LosDiosDeVerde86 Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 Ok so my '96 Outback has had this wierd electrical huming noise, the battery light is on then off and back on again, and when you depress the brakes(abs) all the dash power dies and then comes back on. From searching on this forum it looks like I need a new Alt? right? How could I do this myself? I would love to not have to take it to the dealer and pay 400.00 dollars in repairs. Any help or advice much appreciated!, or if you know of a good shop in Portland, Oregon let me know i've got one brand new for my 96 legacy. buy it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigMattyD Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 I recently bought a rebuilt alternator from 1st subaruparts.com. It was excellent quality at a great price, even when you factor in shipping and returning the old alternator. Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuackAttack Posted November 10, 2005 Author Share Posted November 10, 2005 So just an update... I replaced my radio about 2 weeks ago and everything has been fine! Must have been a short in the radio or a bad wiring job. The Brake light did not fix itself so I took it in, they said it is also an indicator that the brake Fluide is low, and it ws(someone on here already mentioned that!). So now it has been fine now power problems or diode whinning. Thanks for your help. I will be back as they told me that one of my Cylinders (#4) is dropping to 40% when I go up hills, no wonder the car boggs down and everyone passes me, any sugestions for this? thanks y'all. Oh ya GO DUCKS! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Storydude1 Posted November 10, 2005 Share Posted November 10, 2005 So just an update... I replaced my radio about 2 weeks ago and everything has been fine! Must have been a short in the radio or a bad wiring job. The Brake light did not fix itself so I took it in, they said it is also an indicator that the brake Fluide is low, and it ws(someone on here already mentioned that!). So now it has been fine now power problems or diode whinning. Thanks for your help. I will be back as they told me that one of my Cylinders (#4) is dropping to 40% when I go up hills, no wonder the car boggs down and everyone passes me, any sugestions for this? thanks y'all. Oh ya GO DUCKS! Just saw this thread. Ignition noise(whine through speakers in time with RPM's) is usually due to bad grounds. when you replaced the radio, you probably tightened up the connection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a97obw Posted November 10, 2005 Share Posted November 10, 2005 The "unofficial shade tree mechanic" version of testing the alternator used to rely on nothing but a screwdriver. If you hold the screwdriver lightly, as in a plumb bob, behind the center of the alternator and you get a magnetic attraction to the alternator with the screwdriver that would tell you that the alternator is charging. No attraction, no charging. This of course with the engine running. Tested and proven many times on the side of Highway 61 and various iggly iggly parking lots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NOMAD327 Posted November 10, 2005 Share Posted November 10, 2005 Just as an aside, Radio Shack sells a great LED tester for battery charging system and it's less than $5. There are 6 LED lights on it, and a pair of test leads. you touch it to battery poles with motor off, and should see two or better still 3 lights lit. Start the motor and try again, should see at least one more and preferably two more lights lit while under charge. The top LED is 15 Volts and will only come on if there is an overcharging problem. It doesn't do anything a digital multimeter won't do, but it is simpler to use and cheap if you don't have a meter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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