Just wondering how far if at all it was off, and what I can expect to pay to have my camber corrected.

I had mine done and it was almost dead on before the allignment. Camber was adjusted but not much else needed. I just went to Schwab to have it done. Drives really smooth with the Forester steering linkage dampner.

i got an allignment for $54 bucks a few months ago... that'll correct your camber if you're worried about it.

the alignment really shouldn't be affected being that everything from the engine, transmission, and suspention all drop down and withstain their stock formation

I think they're talking about camber problems. Our subarus dont have adjustable camber, and unless AA's lift incorporates an adjustment for the camber I doubt an alignment shop will be able to help...

 

Now if your car is pulling to the left then thats something an alignment shop can fix.

 

-Brian

Now if your car is pulling to the left then thats something an alignment shop can fix.

 

-Brian

 

 

 

not necessarily, some can and some can't. it all depends on what is making it pull. Example: tires ( these alone can cause a pull), yes camber, caster difference from side to side (this can be cause from a set back-one side is more forward then the other side, which requires an engine cradle shift, which some shops won't do or know how) and a sticking brake caliper. also sometimes loose bearings can too. oh almost forgot a bent unibody, alignment shops can tell you there is something wrong even though they might not be able to fix it.

 

also want to add that if you do any offroading, i don't mean just bombing through the nearest mud hole, like over big rocks bouncing into ruts or trying to climb that big rutted hill. i mean some serious 4 wheeling, don't worry about your alignment and that pulling to one side, you'll just knock it right back out and by that i mean your caster and camber if you manage to get them set right. your the toe is the most important to keep your tires from wearing inproperly.

Yes.. I do mean camber issues... Just looking at my car you think you can see it, but if I drive in the wet or snow its a for sure thing... the tires dont pick up water/snow on the inner 1/2" of the tread..... These tires were cheap, but I dont wanna have to buy new ones all the time.. what do I do?

1. Assuming you're talking the front...

 

okay. you need to take your struts back out and do a little grinding on the lift block. (I believe the strut tops are like the BYB ones)...

 

anyway, to fix your camber, you need to grind away as much of the inner edge of the lift block, to push the lift block as far towards the engine as it can go. you may need to slot your strut tower holes just a bit to handle a bit more movement. a little helps a lot.

 

this where to grind the ea81 strut tops, but it should help you get the idea....

 

the other option would be to slot the holes where the strut mounts to the lift block, and slide the top of the strut towards the engine. after some bfh-ing to make a little room

 

__|___

 

----|--

 

looking from the front, this is how the pass. side lift block should look. the bottom strut mounting spots should be closer to the engine.... (flip for drivers side )

Yes.. I do mean camber issues... Just looking at my car you think you can see it, but if I drive in the wet or snow its a for sure thing... the tires dont pick up water/snow on the inner 1/2" of the tread..... These tires were cheap, but I dont wanna have to buy new ones all the time.. what do I do?

 

Camber is not significantly adjustable on EA subies....not without modifications anyway (see McBrat's post)

 

an alignment shop can only adjust toe