The orange one on the top

 

wheel berring for a 87 brat

the part number looks right.

and the unsealed ones show a carter pin.. what is that for.

I wheel be getting the "how to keep your subar alive book"

http://catalog.drivewire.com/drivewire/baseline/quote.jsp?partner=drivewire&year=1987&product=K8000-21621&application=000168444

any one??

The cotter pin in the wheel bearing kit is used to keep the castle nut (36mm) from loosening after it has been properly torqued.

 

any one??

The bottom one looks like a bearing set and the cotter pin is for the wheel nut. Never know if what you see is what you get until you get it.

well here is the tech info on it and the home web page for it.

http://ntnamerica.com/products/datasheet.asp?CO_PARTNOSEARCHTYPE=EXACT&CO_PARTNO=6207lu&MANUFACTURER=NTN&CL_PARTNO=6207LU&BEARINGCATEGORY=RBSRD

 

http://ntnamerica.com

 

I am going to order 4 of them and give it a go to replace my front end.

 

61.20 free shipping.

good data sheet. so they're not a sealed bearing, but just has a shield on one side. that's a good idea. I've had to pick stuff out of the grease, when changing an axle before...

you might consider putting the stock seals on in addition to the sheilded bearings, Its the sand water and salt that kills the bearings. The grease in between the seal and the bearing can act to suspend any foreign material off the bearing.

You have to use the stock seals as well - shields are not seals. I always use bearings with on side shielded, if you have a little grease between the seal and the shield, anything that gets past the seals should stick there instead of getting in the bearing.

I can not quite see it in my head but I am sure it will make more sense once I pull them out. (I am a berring virgin) Oh I will being using the htkysa book.. to bad I bought one off ebay last night 4 mins after finding the pdf version here.

That book is useless for the front bearing job as it will tell you exactly what the FSM does - press them out with a bearing press. Don't have to do that, but it *is* the reccomended procedure. Just use a drift and work your way around the bearing outer race to drive them into the knuckle and you'll be fine. I've replaced them without even pulling the knuckle off the car. Don't forget the spacer between the bearings - got a little ahead of ourselves once and had to pull the bearing back out to put the spacer in.

 

GD

if you have access to a grinder, once you get the old bearings out you can grind the outside of one of the old ones until it fits easily in and out of the knuckle assy - then use it as an install tool for your new bearings - a LOT easier/quicker than a drift - just be sure you put a block of wood between the ground bearing and your hammer as a cushion putting the new bearings in the freezer after they have been packed, and about an hour before you install them will help too

if you have access to a grinder, once you get the old bearings out you can grind the outside of one of the old ones until it fits easily in and out of the knuckle assy - then use it as an install tool for your new bearings - a LOT easier/quicker than a drift - just be sure you put a block of wood between the ground bearing and your hammer as a cushion putting the new bearings in the freezer after they have been packed, and about an hour before you install them will help too

 

I've considered doing that too - just never got around to it. Could even weld a bit of a handle to it and make a proper tool!

 

GD

85Sub4WD vbmenu_register("postmenu_418681", true);

EA82 Junkie

 

 

holly heck that info was very use full. I guess I could weld a arm on the inside and then I would have a tool. Then I could sale them on ebay... aaah naaw .. I am to lazzy.