fbh Posted February 15, 2006 Share Posted February 15, 2006 hi folks, I'm planning on pulling the engine out of my '89 GL wagon (EA82) and giving it a bit of an overhaul. It's got around 120,000 miles on it and hasn't been overhauled. ever. I'm planning on pulling it out, doing the clutch, and pulling the engine apart and giving it a good cleanup, clean up the heads especially (grumble grumble intermittent TOD), replacing some gaskets (including the oil pump's mickey mouse gasket), and probably timing belts too. This will be the first time ever I pull an engine out of a car and do this sort of thing. Does anyone have any warnings or pieces of advice? would be much appreciated. also, rather important, does anyone know if the EA82 is an interference or non-interference engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted February 15, 2006 Share Posted February 15, 2006 hi folks, I'm planning on pulling the engine out of my '89 GL wagon (EA82) and giving it a bit of an overhaul. It's got around 120,000 miles on it and hasn't been overhauled. ever. I'm planning on pulling it out, doing the clutch, and pulling the engine apart and giving it a good cleanup, clean up the heads especially (grumble grumble intermittent TOD), replacing some gaskets (including the oil pump's mickey mouse gasket), and probably timing belts too. This will be the first time ever I pull an engine out of a car and do this sort of thing. Does anyone have any warnings or pieces of advice? would be much appreciated. also, rather important, does anyone know if the EA82 is an interference or non-interference engine? EA82 is non-interference (yeah:banana: ) Also...get some PB Blaster and spray it on the exhaust studs and the motor mount bolts the night before. It is super easy to do just take your time and you should be fine...remember where all the electrical connections go and while you have it out..reseal everything..its so worth it. I had help the first time I had my EA82 pulled and now I would not be afraid to do it myself (and dont forget I am a girl). Also when you do timing belts...remember put one on then turn engine 180 degrees before putting the other on. Good Luck and have FUN! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Romero Posted February 16, 2006 Share Posted February 16, 2006 As long as someone is on this topic I'd like to ask how do you go about de-pressurizing the A/C system on the car as it would seem you need to remove the A/C components, hoses, etc. when doing an engine pull... Thanks. ./steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fbh Posted February 16, 2006 Author Share Posted February 16, 2006 I think you have to take it to a garage or a mechanic, they have the proper means to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave valiant Posted February 16, 2006 Share Posted February 16, 2006 When I pulled the engine out of my wagon I just moved all the ac suff out of the way. The only thing you should need to do is unbolt the compressor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Romero Posted February 16, 2006 Share Posted February 16, 2006 When I pulled the engine out of my wagon I just moved all the ac suff out of the way. The only thing you should need to do is unbolt the compressor. SWEET! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted February 16, 2006 Share Posted February 16, 2006 There's enough give in the hoses/lines for the A/C that you on't have to dis-connect the lines. Just un-bolt compressor from engine, and any clips/straps holding hoses. Then sit compressor off to the side. May need to tie it off with some rope, to keep it from wanting to get in your way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FirstSubaruGLwagon Posted February 16, 2006 Share Posted February 16, 2006 As long as someone is on this topic I'd like to ask how do you go about de-pressurizing the A/C system on the car as it would seem you need to remove the A/C components, hoses, etc. when doing an engine pull... Thanks. ./steve Yeah,, If however you are planning to diconnect the lines,,you have to have the gas recaptured (evacuated) by a ac teck or if you know a HVAC tech he could do it for you.. ,i mean ,, you could just release it at the charge fitting,, but that would not be enviromentaly responsible Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 16, 2006 Share Posted February 16, 2006 Also when you do timing belts...remember put one on then turn engine 180 degrees before putting the other on. Good Luck and have FUN! I know this is the reccomended procedure, but those of us that have done this a number of times just do it the easy way - drivers side cam mark UP, passenger side mark DOWN - install BOTH belts. Done. No need to be turning anything. Silly japanese repair manuals GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarian Posted February 16, 2006 Share Posted February 16, 2006 Back to your original post. It's got 120,000 and it's never been overhauled? That's because it's BARELY BROKEN IN. If you need to replace the clutch, then go ahead and pull the motor. Otherwise, I wouldn't bother. Your TOD is easier to fix with the car running, unless you plan to replace the HLAs. The timing belts and oil pump are easy, and you might want to replace your water pump while you're in there. There are three pieces you need for the oil pump, not just the MM gasket. There's also an O ring and a seal. Not that I want to discourage you from pulling your engine if that's what you want to do, but you asked for advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 16, 2006 Share Posted February 16, 2006 Not that I want to discourage you from pulling your engine if that's what you want to do, but you asked for advice. i agree, the EA82 is so easy to work on with the engine in the car that unless i was replacing the clutch i would do the head gaskets and everything else with the motor in the car. by the time you pull the engine out, i could probably already have the timing belts, cams and heads off. if you decide to pull the motor, you can unbolt the intake manifold and hold it up and out of the way and just pull the long block out without disconnecting the engine wiring harness, hoses and throttle cables. the A/C and power steering can both swing out of the way (p/s to the left and a/c to the right) without disconnecting anything. if you had to unbolt the lines for the a/c you could bolt it back on and recharge it yourself. not ideal but it does work, i've done it for friends that are too cheap or lazy to do it right. you can also buy a vacuum puller from harbor freight for 10 bucks and pull a vacuum on it first. but, no need for all of that since you can swing it out of the way. whatever you do, be sure to spray liquid wrench or PB blaster (do not use WD40) on every timing cover bolt, exhaust bolt/nut, and intake bolt, and the radiator and fan bolts if they're rusty. hit all of these a couple of times a few days before the job and you'll make your job easier, these bolts/nuts like to take as much time as the actual job if they're seized. the hardest part of this job is proper clean up. clean up the heads, clean up the block and cleaning the head bolt holes. very important and very time consuming. are the headgaskets bad? 120,000 is low mileage for an EA82 to blow a head gasket. now if it was a turbo i would'nt be as surprised. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foxgap Posted February 16, 2006 Share Posted February 16, 2006 I'm going to do mine in the spring also mainly to replace a crank seal that is dripping oil all over the place. I was going to pull the motor also. Guess I really don't have to????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 16, 2006 Share Posted February 16, 2006 I'm going to do mine in the spring also mainly to replace a crank seal that is dripping oil all over the place. I was going to pull the motor also. Guess I really don't have to????? you definitely do not have to. but you can. personal preference. i'd say depends on tools, what you're doing, etc. i pulled an EA82T yesterday, it's not that bad but i can have a lot done to the motor by the time it takes to pull it out. some people like working on the motor out of the car, and that is understandable. it is easier to work on out of the car. but the motors are so small and easy to work on that it is quicker to do it in the car. no doubt everything is easier with the engine out, i won't deny that. only trick to doing it in the car is having high quality, thick grease to hold the rocker arms in place while reinstalling the cams. maybe you can do one head with the engine in the car.....then pull the motor and do the other head. see which way you like best! ha ha.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarian Posted February 16, 2006 Share Posted February 16, 2006 Another thing I do is put anti-seize on the timing cover bolts. Some people like to run without covers, but I prefer to have them on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4 arm boxer Posted February 16, 2006 Share Posted February 16, 2006 120k and never rebuilt:confused: my ea 82 has over 210k:eek: and has never been rebuilt:headbang: :headbang: yours is still a baby take care of her and she'll go quite a bit longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted February 16, 2006 Share Posted February 16, 2006 224K and never been rebuilt just a little reseal here and there (cam seals, oil pump, pass side cam case) to slow down the oil seepage. 120K shouldnt need rebuilding - unless it has been severely abused.... ps: also an 89 GL wagon and all work done was done with engine in the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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