I've got a 96 obw that I just purchased from an individual. I am running 5w-30 high mileage oil (it has 136k). I love the car and would love to keep it running well as long as possible. I'm wondering if I should switch to synthetic. I've heard this could be a bad thing on high mileage cars. This car had all of the front seals (?) changed with the timing belt at 105k. Would switching to synth be a worthwhile investment. Will it cause leaks if the seals are newer? Will it lodge loose any goo that could hurt the engine? If I switch, what is a good lower cost synth oil (valvoline synth is less than mobil 1, and they even have a high mileage synth). Thanks for your input!

Im a fan of castrol GTX...its dino oil and im sure that is what has been used in the life of the car before me. The front seals have been replaced, but dont forget about the valve covers and rear seals.

Most, if not all, of the high mileage oils are actually blends of up to 30% "synthetic." Any name brands with the SL or SM ratings are good oil. Synthetic is kind of a relative term but none of them will damage your engine but won't make it young again either. Myself I would probably just keep using one of the high mileage such as Castrol, Valvoline, Pennzoil, etc. WalMart sells Mopar at something like $1.60/qt the last time I looked. It is actually a blend of 20% or so syn at a really good price. The term high mileage is mostly for marketing so don't worry if it doesn't say that in the product name.

so take my car for example...93 impreza fwd 1.8 141,000 miles im actually due for an oil change now so ill be doing that soon.....should i keep going with the 10w 30 or something a lil thicker better? synthetic? i heard soo many different things about synthetic and then theres synthetic blend....can anybody update me

Try finding a good 5W-40 instead of 10W-30.

 

Shell, Mobil, Castrol, Valvoline...

10w30 is fine, no reason to go heavier.

I've got a 96 obw that I just purchased from an individual. I am running 5w-30 high mileage oil (it has 136k). I love the car and would love to keep it running well as long as possible. I'm wondering if I should switch to synthetic. I've heard this could be a bad thing on high mileage cars. This car had all of the front seals (?) changed with the timing belt at 105k. Would switching to synth be a worthwhile investment. Will it cause leaks if the seals are newer? Will it lodge loose any goo that could hurt the engine? If I switch, what is a good lower cost synth oil (valvoline synth is less than mobil 1, and they even have a high mileage synth). Thanks for your input!

 

I just purchase a 91 Legacy Turbo sedan with 162K miles. I changed to Mobil 1 10/30 because of the turbo. I notices later a little Pennzoil sticker inside the windshield. Augh! I hate Pennziol. I wouldn't use it lubricate a rusty nail. It cakes the inside of an engine, especially bad for a Sub.

I dont care if it does start leaking due to the change. I'm going into the dealer for a clutch change and have them change the rear main seal at the same time just in case. All other seals can simply be changed at next T. belt service. I just picked up 2 mpg from the slicker synthetic.

Mike

I found Castrol High Mileage to work very well in my older Subaru. Not synthetic, though.

What would the consensus here for a 5w50 synth. I travel highway a lot, but needs good cold start capability. Is 50 weight too high?

 

Nevermind, think I'll try the 5w30 synth instead. Reading up says that the 50 is achieved through heavy polymer additions, and a lower base weight oil.

Mobil 1 5W-50 has served me very well as warm weather oil. If you get nightime temps below freezing, M1 5W-40 would be better.

 

Serious daytime frost would justify 5W-30.

 

For my high-rev driving style anyway

I just purchase a 91 Legacy Turbo sedan with 162K miles. I changed to Mobil 1 10/30 because of the turbo. I notices later a little Pennzoil sticker inside the windshield. Augh! I hate Pennziol. I wouldn't use it lubricate a rusty nail. It cakes the inside of an engine, especially bad for a Sub.

I dont care if it does start leaking due to the change. I'm going into the dealer for a clutch change and have them change the rear main seal at the same time just in case. All other seals can simply be changed at next T. belt service. I just picked up 2 mpg from the slicker synthetic.

Mike

 

You picked up 2 mpg from thinner synthetic, not a "slicker" one. The notion than oil can be "slicker" is purely an urban myth and marketing slogan.

Also your Pennzoil bashing is based on anegdotic and newer substantiated incidents in early 1980's. Now, the Pennzoil brand is owned by Shell and has nothing to do with the Pennzoil oils of the 80's. Wake up to the 21st centry.

We changed to Mobil 1 at 38K on our 97Leg 5spd. We now have 114K on it. It is relatively expensive, however, in my part of the country WalMart carry's it for $20 for 5qts. Not bad.

We put on about 14K per year and change it twice or when the oil turns color, always using a quality oil filter.

I think Mobil 1 helps start ups in the winter, here in NE and protects the engine when its really hot in the summer. My local subie mechanics think synthetics are great and sell another synthetic brands too.

We also follow the long term maint schedule and have our 120K maint coming up this year, timing belt, water pump etc.

Our mech's are Subie mech's only and have been in business for 15yrs, there honest and do the work on time.

 

If anyone know's of a better quality brake pad and rotor combo than stock could you please reply. It seems to me that replacement rotors are of poor quality. Is there an upgrade on rotor, pad combo's that would upgrade rotor life with out getting into racing or comp items. Thanks Jeff

10w30 is fine, no reason to go heavier.

 

Except that putting in 20W50 (summer) 5W40 (winter) cuts down on the amount of oil burned quite a bit.

You picked up 2 mpg from thinner synthetic, not a "slicker" one. The notion than oil can be "slicker" is purely an urban myth and marketing slogan.

Also your Pennzoil bashing is based on anegdotic and newer substantiated incidents in early 1980's. Now, the Pennzoil brand is owned by Shell and has nothing to do with the Pennzoil oils of the 80's. Wake up to the 21st centry.

 

Synthetic oil IS slicker than conventional oil. Drain the oil out of an engine with sythetic and one with conventional oil and you can "feel" the difference. If you don't feel the difference, try dropping a socket in each pan and try to pick it out of the oil and you will be surprised at the difference. I least I was.

And thank you for agreeing with me on the Pennzoil of the 80's etc; That's what I was refering to. I don't know if they improved their oil in the 21st century because I don't ever use it.

Mike

We changed to Mobil 1 at 38K on our 97Leg 5spd. We now have 114K on it. It is relatively expensive, however, in my part of the country WalMart carry's it for $20 for 5qts. Not bad.

We put on about 14K per year and change it twice or when the oil turns color, always using a quality oil filter.

I think Mobil 1 helps start ups in the winter, here in NE and protects the engine when its really hot in the summer. My local subie mechanics think synthetics are great and sell another synthetic brands too.

We also follow the long term maint schedule and have our 120K maint coming up this year, timing belt, water pump etc.

Our mech's are Subie mech's only and have been in business for 15yrs, there honest and do the work on time.

 

If anyone know's of a better quality brake pad and rotor combo than stock could you please reply. It seems to me that replacement rotors are of poor quality. Is there an upgrade on rotor, pad combo's that would upgrade rotor life with out getting into racing or comp items. Thanks Jeff

 

Others here will have direct experience with your pad/rotor question. In fact. I think you should starta new thread on the subject.

Brembo is often mentioned as a good brand - I think, from reading 'technical' 'white' papers at http://www.stoptech.com that slotted rotors are ok BUT PERHAPS DRILLED ARE NOT APPRoPRIATE FOR 'NORMAL' USE. Mintex, Axxis, EBC and others get mentioned as 'upgraded' pads. The primary enemy of rotors is clamping down on the brakes after a hard stop - it holds the heat in one spot and causes that 'warped' feeling. Again, try the stoptech site for info.

I switched to mobil1 in a dodge van because of the clatter at startup. went away when i switched to mobil 1. After that i began to put mobil1 in my chevy. at 60 k i had the valve seal replaced the guy that did it said it was spotless and when he adjusted the lifters the oil would not fling off. Now it has 184 K on it and stil nevers misses a beat and going for 200k