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Snowman

I love weber! (another question added)

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:D

 

I just got finished installing a weber on Roxanne, and I am more excited than I have been in quite some time. The difference in performance is nothing short of amazing, and the sound alone is worth it. I do have a couple of questions:

 

The throttle cable is currently operating at an angle because the mount is a few millimeters off from the carb. This causes it to not want to return to idle, and I have a suspicion that it reduces the total movement as well. How should I deal with this? Should I put a couple of washers on the throttle shaft to move the cable attachment point out and bring it into alignment, or should I fab a new cable mount, which would be difficult right now because I don't have a drill at this time.

 

Also, I have plugged and/or removed all of the hitachi vacuum crap, but I am wondering what to do with one line. It comes from the firewall and used to go into the air cleaner. Should I plug it, attach a piece of foam to the end to act as a filter, or just let it sit there?

 

Finally, I have seen pictures of some board members' subarus with snorkels attached, and I think that just looks sweet. It also would be a very effective cold air intake, which would help the performance even more. What kind of pipe has proven to be the best to make one out of, and what else should I either attach to the snorkel or seal in some other way?

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Kelly, Glad to hear that you've succeeded in getting it together. I'm sorry I didn't get back to you on mine but I think you're better off getting a new one; probably less expensive too considering the time you might have wasted on my used one.

 

Anyway, I have the same problem with the throttle return on mine. I think my solution will be to go to a stronger spring for the return. I did have to move the spring support up and forward of the throttle return plate to get a better angle for the return spring to work properly. That cured most of my problem, but I need a slightly stronger spring to get that last 1/16" of travel to get the idle to return to normal consistently. Qman did the installation of mine and managed to get the throttle cable lined up as needed with existing parts. I'll try to get a photo to you about how it looks along with the throttle return spring support I rigged up.

 

You will be even more amazed about the performance when you notice the change in gas mileage. Not only is my setup emissions legal (they only check the exhaust gases and if that passes never open the hood), the performance is outstanding (I love that noise when the secondary opens up around 3500 rpm), but I've found my highway gas mileage is up by 20 to 25% (on my car, 3500 rpm is about 80, so if I'm cruising at 70 to 75, the car never sees the secondary barrel open up).

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Talking on an EA-82 engine here. I used the little bracket that holds the wire for the oil pressure sender, to hold the throtle return spring. I removed the bracket from where it was, flipped it a bit, then bolted it to one of the T-belt cover bolts. This put the spring in front of the carb, and down lower than what I've seen on other swaps. I still have to drill a small hole in the throttle linkage on the carb to fit the spring, just have it hooked on it for now.

I had a time of it with the throttle cable myself. It's been shorten by previous owner. Haven't figured out why yet. Anyways, getting the cable in-line with the linkage on the carb was a slight pain. Finally just whacked the bracket with a hammer. Whala, she be in line now.

Have to get to the local yard and get me a proper lenght throttle cable soon. Where this one is attached to the mount bracket, it won't let me set the choke, and I can get full WOT with the go pedal. Everything works properly if I do it from under the hood. So that just leaves the cable length, and it's mounting point, as the culprits.

I did have a clearance problem where the Hitachi's throttle linkage fastens to the Weber carb. Wanted to hang on one of the rods for the choke. I just added washers between it until it cleared the rod.

Thinking that vacuum line you mentioned is for your heater controls. If the air won't come out of any of the other ducts besides the vent ones, You may want to hook that back up.

Really love the differance that the Weber made on mine. Snappier throttle response, better gas milage. Did take some of the bark out of the exhaust, but that will help keep the cops off my tail.

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Snowman, PM me with the details of your Weber - where did you get it, how much did it cost, how dofficult was it to install, and most importantly - is it a kick a-- running machine now? Also, let's plan a meet and greet. I posted a notice in the meet and greet forum, but no responses. yet. I think Jon in Eagle River must be out of town. Thanks

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I am now considering punching out the cats for two reasons. Any feedback would be great.

 

1.) The laws of physics. Now that more air is going in, more exhaust has to go out.

 

 

2.) I think that at least one of the cats is plugged, which was caused by the rich condition created by my hitachi as it went to its grave. I have heard that running rich will tend to melt the cat guts together, especially when running at really high speed for hours one end, which I was doing at the time. Simultaneously about two months ago, my fuel economy went down, and for no apparent reason my top speed and general highway performance decreased significantly.

 

The weber has helped this a lot, but the car still seems overly burdened by something, and I think the cats are causing it.

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This is a family forum, so we won't discuss that.

 

Originally posted by edrach

Gosh, what will you do when it's installed!

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bump

 

Could the fuel filter be another possiblity for the lame high-speed performance and fuel economy? It hasn't been changed for at least 20,000 miles.

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Change the fuel filter if it's more than 4 or 5 years old; 20K seems like it's time. It's certainly not a waste of your time or money. However, I think you may have something regarding a restricted exhaust.

 

I've recently changed fuel filters on my two sons cars that were in excess of ten years old based on the date code stamped on the filter.

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I change fuel filters on carbed cars every 10-15K miles, and keep a spare in the car along with tools to change it. Has saved my a$$ a number of times over the years.

 

My experience with gutting the cat on an EA82 carbed car was that it lost torque due to too little restriction. Suggest you drill a hole thru the cat's guts with a hole saw, rather than take it all out.

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I was thinking about just jabbing at the innards of the cat with a rod until I'm able to stick it all the way through and have a hole that is about the size of the exhaust pipe or maybe just a bit smaller. That way it would still have enough backpressure but be able to flow a lot more when required.

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Been alot of discusion on this, back and forth, yea and nay. It helps to have it, no it don't help to have it. As far as engine performance goes.

I didn't have to much choice in the decision to remove my cat, it did it itself. So, in order to remedy the "no exaust system" problem. I built my own 2" dual system, no cats, free-flowing turbo mufflers.

Don't know if I lost any torque in doing so, but I can say that she'll get up and go. Especially now that the Weber is on her.

http://www.discountconverters.com has a 2" dual inlet/outlet converter listed in their online catalog, you have to call for pricing, and I haven't yet. But there's a converter available if you feel the need, or your area requires one. They even have one listed that resembles the stock Subaru one, only with larger inlet/outlet, thinking it's 2" also.

Can say that the stock Subaru exhaust system itself is restrictive as all get out. Let the engine breath easier, and you get better performance and gas mileage. You want to relieve back-pressure, some is good, to much is bad.

And yes, Time to retire that old fuel filter.....

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Okay, from what I hear, you want a huge 3" bed catalyst three way to replace your (two) cats for best performance. What I plan on doing is 2" from the heads down, make my own Y, 2.5 from there back, big performance three way pretty much in place of the second cat (so as not to be under the stupid axles and kill the boots!!) and then back to dual 2" with two turbo mufflers.

 

Here in Oregon it's legal to replace two two ways with one three way. The idea of the first two way is to get some bad stuff out of the exhaust and the second is to filter the other stuff out... so... the three way is actually both cats end to end. More convenient package. Get one WITH the air, and then hook up my resonance tubing that I currently have on my car... makes it sound mean when the cat sucks in air.

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