I was adding some seafoam to my wagon this morning and when I turned the engine on to flush out the foam, I noticed that the front large pully, which I believe is on the same axis as the crankshaft, had a lot of movement. I got my ear a little closer and I noticed some squeeking, but I don't think thats anything abnormal. This pully that I'm talking about, has a large (25mm?) bolt holding it to the engine. I've read some posts about subi's 'crankwalking' but that seems more like front-rearward freeplay in the shaft, more than a bearing failure. Has anyone ever had this pully bearing take a crap on them?

 

Thanks...

did you try tightening the bolt?

yeah, try to tighten it. its a 22 mm bolt. the pulley doesn't have a bearing in it, it just slides on the crankshaft, lined up with a keyway.

Seems to have worked.

 

Thanks for the info and help,

 

Regards

Keep an eye on it, if you didnt use a torque wrench odds are it will come loose again

 

 

nipper

Locktite it, its a 21MM bolt head and use a lot of torque. (120 ft lbs.)

^^^^^^what he said.

Don't wait till it destroys your crank - it's been known to happen.

i'd replace it with a known good unit or remove it and check to see if the center hole is rounded out at all. usually if it's been like that, the hole through the center of the pulley is rounded.

 

i use a socket wrench with a 3 foot pipe on the end and crank the ever loving nut sack out of it. cast iron bolt and crank, it won't strip. whatever you do, make it tight. don't use that philosophy on aluminum parts (like the engine block) as the aluminum is much softer and will strip.

How do you fight the tendency of the engine to turn and move the car forward. Each time that I tried to tighten the bolt it ended up springing back and it didn't feel like I tightened it at all, although the pulley wasn't bouncing around as much after. If I were to put locktite on, I would completely remove the bolt and then install with locktite right?

 

Thanks

How do you fight the tendency of the engine to turn and move the car forward. Each time that I tried to tighten the bolt it ended up springing back and it didn't feel like I tightened it at all, although the pulley wasn't bouncing around as much after. If I were to put locktite on, I would completely remove the bolt and then install with locktite right?

 

Thanks

you might try getting somebody to hold the brake while you tighten it,and yes remove the bolt,put loctite on the threads and retighten it.

No need for locktite if it is properly torqued. Thats the reason for the torque spec.

If its a manual thats one way to do it, have somone stand on the brakes with the car in 5th gear to get rid of the mchanical advantage. There is a access hole in the bell housing for the ignition timing marks. You can lock up the engine there with a heavy screw driver or some other method. SOmone should chime in.

 

nipper