ok, early friday morning i'm taking my son to washington (PA) to go to my parent's for the weekend because my wife and i are going to NJ for my brother in law's graduation.

 

Since The Boy won't be home all day and i'm not leaving for the airport until late friday evening i've got some time to get things done on the Ru.

 

I plan on

- cutting off peeling paint from the rust.

- sanding/trimming off rust

- putting some kind of protectant on the metal to stop it from rusting more

- possibly plastic welding the cracks in my front bumper

 

SO:

- how should i treat the metal before i spray it?

- what should i spray it with?

- where can i get this spray from?

- what grits of sandpaper should i use?

- how do you take off the rear bumper?

- how do you take off the front bumper?

 

- what else should i try to do while i've got time??

I use phosphoric acid to treat metal before I prime it.

I have have good results with it. Not 100%, but still good results.

I got the acid at an auto body supply store.

I bought some stuff from walmart years ago to fix a 90 legacy front fender and all I had to do was smooth it out and paint this stuff on it and it sealed the rust up. The stuff worked awesome. It came in a white bottle if I remember correctly.

 

Body work tips: don't look at me...I work OT to pay people to do it for me. I suck at it.

I bought some stuff from walmart years ago to fix a 90 legacy front fender and all I had to do was smooth it out and paint this stuff on it and it sealed the rust up. The stuff worked awesome. It came in a white bottle if I remember correctly.

 

Body work tips: don't look at me...I work OT to pay people to do it for me. I suck at it.

 

You dont remember what the brand name was?

Aluminum Petrolium Jelly is the way to go for neutralizing rust

did up like.. the ENTIRE rear end of my bmw w/ it

get some sort of wire brush too, to get in there & get the flaky stuff off 1st. Once you let the stuff set & neutralize (it may be a long time.. dont' remember) you can prime it w/ some anti-rust stuffs... ACE rust stop works great, and it's cheap Then go ahead and do it up w/ your pretty colored paint

 

As for the bumper cover (i don't think you want the metal part off), you've got to pop the hood, take off the head lights & front grill (a few bolts & stuff), then there will be like.. 1000 of those pesky black plastic pin things, where you have to pop the top, and then the whole thing comes out... get those out of the way, then behind the liscence plate i believe there is 1 bolt, and possibly one lower than that (at least for the obs..) There may also be some of those annoying plastic things over in the fender wells... but i'm not sure about those.. since i broke all of them (zip-ties are your friend)

The cover should slide right off after that, there'll be some 'shock absorbing foam' under it, and be careful of wires (if you have directionals on the bumper.. i think only the OBS was that stupid though).

The plastic is black under the paint, go easy w/ the plastic welding, and give her some loving w/ some nice paint when you're done

To put the cover back on.. pretty much the reverse of taking it off.. unless you're me.. and then you shear the one bolt remaining, and break all the plastic tabs, and hold the cover on w/ some rachet straps

good luck!

You dont remember what the brand name was?

 

called "rust converter" by Klean strip. Bottle is white with a red label on it. I bought this stuff years ago so the packageing might have changed since then.

called "rust converter" by Klean strip. Bottle is white with a red label on it. I bought this stuff years ago so the packageing might have changed since then.

 

Thanks! Is it not also phosporic acid ?

http://www.por15.com/

 

This is very good stuff. Also a rust convertor. "POR-15"

 

When using this type stuff, pour out a little bit into a separate clean container like a disposable paper cup and use it out of that, and don't return the used portion to the original container, because getting rust crud in the product can ruin it. Activates it or something like that, I don't know, I'm no paint scientist.

http://www.por15.com/

 

This is very good stuff. Also a rust convertor. "POR-15"

 

When using this type stuff, pour out a little bit into a separate clean container like a disposable paper cup and use it out of that, and don't return the used portion to the original container, because getting rust crud in the product can ruin it. Activates it or something like that, I don't know, I'm no paint scientist.

 

how do you apply it

those wooden brush things, with the spongy thing on the end... yeah..

Righto, paintbrush, spray, whatever.

 

Just for fun I checked out the price of a 55 gallon drum of this stuff: $3881. I'll pass, not like I'm restoring railroad boxcars or anything.

Righto, paintbrush, spray, whatever.

 

Just for fun I checked out the price of a 55 gallon drum of this stuff: $3881. I'll pass, not like I'm restoring railroad boxcars or anything.

 

um....so how much is just enough???

por 15 is great stuff from what i hear........try checking out some jeep forums (older rusty ones, o wait they all rust:rolleyes: ), they tend to like the stuff.

I use phosphoric acid to treat metal before I prime it.

I have have good results with it. Not 100%, but still good results.

I got the acid at an auto body supply store.

 

You can buy Duro Extend or a similar product from Loctite at Homed Depot or any auto store. Spray can, $5. I use it on my snow thrower.

um....so how much is just enough???

 

POR 15 lists a "starter kit" for around $16 plus shipping--which is what I've been planning to get for about a year now!!! Check out their website, interesting stuff including how-to-do-it instructions.

POR 15 lists a "starter kit" for around $16 plus shipping--which is what I've been planning to get for about a year now!!! Check out their website, interesting stuff including how-to-do-it instructions.

 

Couple of hints on POR-15:

 

WEAR GLOVES! It does not come off of skin - you'll wear it for days. Try not to get it on your face.

 

When resealing the can, put a piece of plastic wrap between the lid and the can. Othewise, you cannot re-open the can.

 

Don't get it anywhere you don't want it. It won't come off.

 

Follow the prep directions to the letter. The stuff needs some "tooth" on the surface to stick. It won't stay on shiney, smooth, bare metal - it just peals off. So, do the prep work as directed.

 

Moisture causes the stuff to cure - it hardens faster on humid days than on dry days.

well....today's friday, so i'm hard at work....

 

 

i'm NOT taking off my front bumper today. taking off the rear proved to be a big enough pain in the rump roast for one day.

 

i was having a hard time getting it off of the "sliders" evidently.

 

so i got the rear bumper off and saw that there was MORE rust forming under those little metal pieces between the bumper cover and the rear lights

 

i bougtht some rush crap that i'm not sure really did a whole lot. i spent some time grinding off rust and paint to get to the metal, and then put the rust crap on.

 

while doing this i realized that what i'm doing is going to be temporary until i can get it professionally fixed.

 

there's one spot that's eaten through the metal that i'm trying to cover with primer, but i'm not sure how thats going to go. there's also another spot that is rotted a bit, but it's not through the metal yet.

 

i'm using duplicolor grey filler/sandable primer (even though i found that the primer that is evidently from the factory is brownish/orange). i'm going to have to put SOME kind of paint on it before i leave here (my inlaw's garage) because it's raining and i'm concerned with porousness of the primer, so i'm going to use what's in stock (in the garage cabnet) which is Rustolium Professional Quick Dry Enamel. what color you may ask? FIRE ENGINE RED BABY!!!

 

it's gonna look rediculous, but i'm sure that i'll feel better about that than the rust spot.

 

red is more purrty than gross rust!

 

i'll get some pictures up of the final product eventually. hopefully i can get that bumper back on!!