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broken pcv valve


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ok, here's a question...has anyone on here had the pcv valve broken off inside the intake manifold? mine is broken off so i stuck a screw in it to keep it running. every mechanic to whom i told this too looked at me like i must be on crack, but it's been running fine for 2 years like that. now that i'm going to be fixing some other stuff to get it running again (idlers and such in the timing system) i figured, hey why not finally fix that too...so, if anyone else has had this problem what is the easiest solution to it? drilling and tapping? it's a tight squeaze to fit anything in that area. anyone done this befor, know what size taps i should use? and finally where can i find the hoses that connect to the pcv valve? autozone wouldn't sell me tube cut to size because mine was "pre bent" and blah blah blah and it would affect something or other. i've never heard that before but jesus, autozone never wants to sell me anything for my car. they wouldn't sell me flex pipe for my exhaust. i was at napa getting some belts for my car and i noticed allot of hoses hanging in thier back room, so i'm thinking i should just grab the one i have left and take it down there. napa is quickly becoming one of my favoured establishments as they actually sell me the things i need instead of giving me a bologna answer as to why i can't use it.

 

anyway back to the point...how long will this take, and any tips/pointers/tricks to get it done smoothly ?

 

thanks

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Weird... sounds almost as weird as breaking off a sparkplug in its hole.

 

Might be easier to just replace the manifold. Should be able to find one for cheap/free, and to get at the broken PCV valve you might end up removing your manifold anyways...

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As mentioned above, the only "correct" method is to remove the intake manifold. I wouldn't get too ambitious about getting the PCV out as it sits, as this is where you can cause additional damage in a hurry. Forget drilling or obliterating the old one.

However, penetrant and heat might be worth a shot. The idea is to get the area surrounding the valve nice and hot - then soak it with PB or WD to unseize it from the opening. Then, if you can find a way to get some "bite" on the valve, you might be able to twist it out. You might be able to notch the inside edge enough to get a flat head screw driver or thin chisel on it.

 

Good Luck, John

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...Then, if you can find a way to get some "bite" on the valve, you might be able to twist it out. You might be able to notch the inside edge enough to get a flat head screw driver or thin chisel on it.

 

Good Luck, John

Maybe use a very big easy-out/screw-extractor.

 

Plumbers use a pipe/nipple extractor that goes inside of the pipe/tube and expands to grip the inside and can be used to twist out the pipe; this may be useful, depending on how the PCV valve broke, but the one time I tried one on a mower exhaust nipple my extractor broke. :-\

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I've never had luck with "Easy outs/ reverse drills" they always break in the hole and cause a bigger problem.

Yeah, I would not normally recommend such things to people who had not already used them... but in this case we are talking about an extractor with a very large cross-section (10-13mm??). And the plumbers device isn't a conventional easy-out, but rather a cam grip sort of affair.

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i would not use an e-z out or similar type extractor, they absolutley suck. let me put it this way...if an e-z out works, the thing would have come out with something else.

 

is this an EA82? i don't know if EA81's have PCV valves or not, that's why i'm asking.

 

i think the thing will come out. is there anything left to grab or touch of the old PCV? welding a bolt to it would be the ideal way then a socket will back it right out. that's how i remove sheared off studs. works great every time. only need a little bit of metal to get it to work.

 

i like the heating method too. you want to heat the intake manifold around the PCV valve and not heat the valve at all. as a matter of fact, cool it if possible. this method works wonders on some things.

 

if there's any "hole" inside the PCV valve that you can get too, i'd wonder if you could get some thin needle nose pliers inside of it? get the tip of the pliers in the hole, open them against the PCV valve as hard as you can while turning. it may break loose. spray it down heavy with liquid wrench and PB blaster ahead of time.

 

with a dremel you can cut a large notch across what's left of the PCV and then use a flat head screwdriver to turn it out.

 

can you post a picture?

 

if you can tap the "inside" of the PCV valve..find a tap about the size of the inner passage, i would bet that you could use the strongest locktite they make, insert a bolt in the threaded hole. let the locktite set over night and harden, then extract it with a socket on the bolt.

 

i don't think it'd be too hard to get out, just need to be a little creative.

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First - REMOVE the manifold. It's not hard, and probably could use new manifold gaskets anyway. Get them from the DEALER only - about $3 each. Be careful removing the manifold bolts, clean them really good - I like to use a wire wheel on both the mating surfaces, and the bolts, and then anti-seize on the bolts. Remember - only 14 - 16 ft-lbs on the bolts or you will destroy the gaskets, and possibly break the bolts.

 

After that - any of the above will work fine, or just drill and tap the thing back to the proper size. A heli-coil or timesert will fix it good as new. A well placed and properly sized drill bit and some careful drilling + use of a tap will clean out the original threads without harming them.

 

GD

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Try not to break the intake bolts, I've broken a few. Plus, use antiseize on the threads. They didn't do that at the factory, those dumba$$es
i agree 100%. unless intake bolt breakage is isolated to certain parts of the country...i've seen it happen on at least 50% of the intakes i've removed. at least one bolt would shear off and get stuck in the head. very annoying and not worth the trouble in my oppinion. now i just weld a nut to the end of the stud that's left and use a socket to get it out. works great every time. one day i'll end up with a bolt that shears flush with nothing to weld too. grrrrr.....
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