outback96 Posted July 24, 2006 Share Posted July 24, 2006 hello to all, I am a new Subaru Outback owner with a '96 outback that when the car is in AWD mode there is a knock and noise coming from both rear tires. I have had the rear diff. checked and everything works fine. both rear axles have been replaced too, so I'm afraid to ask what else it could be. The car drives great with the fuse in FWD mode. So before i take it into the dealer wanted to see if anyone could help. thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted July 24, 2006 Share Posted July 24, 2006 With AWD it is important that all tires be the same size and make. The problem may be due to the tires not being equal between the front and the rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 24, 2006 Share Posted July 24, 2006 sounds like it's binding. make sure all your tires are the same size and the tread is similar. change your ATF. after that you're looking at replacing the clutch packs or rear extension housings or entire transmission. look up "torque bind" on the forums here, TONS of information on this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outback96 Posted July 24, 2006 Author Share Posted July 24, 2006 sounds like it's binding. make sure all your tires are the same size and the tread is similar. change your ATF. after that you're looking at replacing the clutch packs or rear extension housings or entire transmission. look up "torque bind" on the forums here, TONS of information on this. hey, thanks for the info. all of the tires are the same size and kind. also, I have already replaced the ATF but still no immprovement. haven't heard of "clutch packs" or the "rear extension housing." what do these parts do? and where are they located within the driveline? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayne Boncyk Posted July 24, 2006 Share Posted July 24, 2006 The "clutch pack" is the system of plates in the back end of your tranny that couples power to the rear driveshaft. It is hydraulically activated (via a modulator valve that is switched by something called the Duty Solenoid C) and during normal operation it is switched on and off to give variable power coupling to the rear end. Both the clutch plate assembly and the Duty Solenoid C are inside the rear extension housing of your transmission. It is the bolt-on piece of the tranny housing that the rear drive shaft sticks out from. If either the solenoid has failed, or if the clutch plates are heat-bonded or galled such that they are stuck together, then power goes to the rear end 100% of the time. When power goes both to front and rear on dry pavement, and when you turn, so the amount of rotation of front and rear tires is different, then you get "torque bind." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 24, 2006 Share Posted July 24, 2006 The "clutch pack" is the system of plates in the back end of your tranny that couples power to the rear driveshaft. It is hydraulically activated (via a modulator valve that is switched by something called the Duty Solenoid C) and during normal operation it is switched on and off to give variable power coupling to the rear end. Both the clutch plate assembly and the Duty Solenoid C are inside the rear extension housing of your transmission. It is the bolt-on piece of the tranny housing that the rear drive shaft sticks out from. If either the solenoid has failed, or if the clutch plates are heat-bonded or galled such that they are stuck together, then power goes to the rear end 100% of the time. When power goes both to front and rear on dry pavement, and when you turn, so the amount of rotation of front and rear tires is different, then you get "torque bind." darn how did i miss this one, what he said the bad news is that if the flush didnt fix it, you need to get it repaired at a steep price to have AWD. You can put the FWD fuse in under the hood to make the car driveable, but even that may not work. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outback96 Posted July 25, 2006 Author Share Posted July 25, 2006 The "clutch pack" is the system of plates in the back end of your tranny that couples power to the rear driveshaft. It is hydraulically activated (via a modulator valve that is switched by something called the Duty Solenoid C) and during normal operation it is switched on and off to give variable power coupling to the rear end. Both the clutch plate assembly and the Duty Solenoid C are inside the rear extension housing of your transmission. It is the bolt-on piece of the tranny housing that the rear drive shaft sticks out from. If either the solenoid has failed, or if the clutch plates are heat-bonded or galled such that they are stuck together, then power goes to the rear end 100% of the time. When power goes both to front and rear on dry pavement, and when you turn, so the amount of rotation of front and rear tires is different, then you get "torque bind." Wayne Boncyk...thanks for the information. that really helps me understand what's going on. talking with y'all has actually been more help than speaking to the dealership. Thanks alot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outback96 Posted July 25, 2006 Author Share Posted July 25, 2006 sounds like torque bind is what's going on with my subrau. Should i start buying parts and just jump right in with repairing the extension housing? Or should I take it into a transmission shop and let them figure it out? What's my next step. Currently the fues is in FWD and car drives great w/out problems, however, the reason why i got a subaru is for the AWD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 25, 2006 Share Posted July 25, 2006 how mechanical are you? The dealer did mine he said he had to peasure the plates to know which ones to order. With my back healing from surgery and no garage to work in i didnt argue. BTW the dealer charge for parts for my 1997 was 459.78 and labor was 510.00 just to give you a heads up. The problem with a tranny shop is that they may tell you the entire trannt is shot. i couldnt find one that wouldnt sell me an entire transmission so i went to the dealer. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pamike Posted July 25, 2006 Share Posted July 25, 2006 i got new clutches and solonoid in my 90 a while back and what i did is i took the rear housing off my self and they put the parts in at the subie garage. it cost me somewhere around $500 for the parts and them puting them it. taking it off was not brain surgery, i spent most of the time taking the exhaust apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firstwagon Posted July 25, 2006 Share Posted July 25, 2006 how mechanical are you? The dealer did mine he said he had to peasure the plates to know which ones to order. With my back healing from surgery and no garage to work in i didnt argue. BTW the dealer charge for parts for my 1997 was 459.78 and labor was 510.00 just to give you a heads up. The problem with a tranny shop is that they may tell you the entire trannt is shot. i couldnt find one that wouldnt sell me an entire transmission so i went to the dealer. nipper Off topic a bit... Hey Nipper; I notice you only need 1 more post to hit 4000. Is that a record? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 25, 2006 Share Posted July 25, 2006 Off topic a bit... Hey Nipper; I notice you only need 1 more post to hit 4000. Is that a record? see what happens when you sit on your but all day recovering (way to slowly) from surgery, is sucks. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted July 25, 2006 Share Posted July 25, 2006 my creative solution was to install used parts off a trans that i knew didn't have TB. the problem here is how do you know unless you have driven the car. even then it cost about 300 labor. i got new clutches and solonoid in my 90 a while back and what i did is i took the rear housing off my self and they put the parts in at the subie garage. it cost me somewhere around $500 for the parts and them puting them it. taking it off was not brain surgery, i spent most of the time taking the exhaust apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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