Prospeeder Posted November 2, 2006 Share Posted November 2, 2006 Ok so i did what was said and cleaned the contacs at all the switches, but it made zero difference in all the windows performance. The drivers windows fairly quick, untill it gets to the top and it squeaks and then goes slow. The rest of the windows HARDLY work and need help going back up they have such little power going to them or somthing. Somtimes if you use thier direct switch they work abit better. THink my master switch is hosed? Some kind of relay? Or are the motors shot, i thought when those went they just didnt work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted November 2, 2006 Share Posted November 2, 2006 The drivers windows fairly quick, untill it gets to the top and it squeaks and then goes slow. The rest of the windows HARDLY work and need help going back up they have such little power going to them or somthing. I re greased the gearboxes and all pivot points with synthetic wheel bearing / general purpose grease. They run better now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 2, 2006 Share Posted November 2, 2006 I re greased the gearboxes and all pivot points with synthetic wheel bearing / general purpose grease. They run better now. +1, but I like to use white lithium grease in the spray can - good for door locks, hinges, and other stuff that comes in contact with moisture a lot. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virrdog Posted November 2, 2006 Share Posted November 2, 2006 How did you clean the contacts? With some sand paper? I would go ahead and clean the contacts in your master switch, too, just to eliminate the easy stuff to do. Next would be to grease everything up I guess. I'll have to do that one of these days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DasWaff Posted November 2, 2006 Share Posted November 2, 2006 Two more inexpensive things you can try. Replace the relay, auto zone has a $4 plug in replacement (you can upgrade to the Bosch or whatever later if it proves to be the problem) and clean the ground contacts at the ground screw, often corroded by moisture. Also you can test the motors with a known good 12V source and or check the voltage after the switch to see if it is approx 12V. Love to see an electric window gremlin bite the dust. DasWaff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zed wolf Posted November 2, 2006 Share Posted November 2, 2006 I have dealt with power windows in allot of rigs. The most common problem is the factory grease collects dirt or drys up over time. The best cure for a slow window is to remove the door panel and thoroughly clean all the tracks pivots and other moving parts of the window system. It is a bit messy and a pain in the a.. but worth doing. After you get all the old grease and grime off re-lube with some form of solid grease not just some spray on stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted November 3, 2006 Author Share Posted November 3, 2006 where is the ground for them? and this relay thats avalible, any specific numbers on that, i dont have an autozone, i have Shucks, napa, and carquest. I greased the hell out of a few spots on one of the slow windows and it sped it up, but going up is still ALOT of trouble for it, but going down its fast now. When its going up, from the bottom its very very slow, it needs help alot of the time then it gets halfway then goes pretty quick on its own. Also i cleaned the contacts with sand paper and lacour to get the carbon off. they looked pretty clean and were really dirty, and i did All four switches including the master Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 not just some spray on stuff. The "just some spray on stuff" is white lithium grease, and it's actually very similar to the original grease used. The spray helps to distribute the grease evenly, and get in spots that fingers can't go. It's actually an excelent product and we use it extensively in the military on all our trucks and equipment. You can get as thick a coating as you want with the spray. Unlike "rattle can" spray paint, grease in a can is not a "cheap solution", and is not frowned upon like you seem to think. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffast Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 i second white lithum grease best tool for this kind of thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 I got the impression Zed was talkiing about WD-40 & company... Im glad to see I wasn't the first to read that and say "but white lithium grease is the best thing to use in that situation!" thats one thing NOBODY else in my family EVER buys... they like to USE it, but i am the only one who ever thinks to BUY it. Oh well, at least they keep the shop stocked up on carb cleaner and brake fluid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 I got the impression Zed was talkiing about WD-40 & company... Im glad to see I wasn't the first to read that and say "but white lithium grease is the best thing to use in that situation!" I can't even begin to explain how useful the lithium is on my muddy off-road wagon.... reminds me to grab another can actually. WD-40 is great for ignition parts, so I carry it too. Almost totally useless as a lubricant - wasn't even designed for that purpose. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted November 3, 2006 Author Share Posted November 3, 2006 sooo yea about the ground location and more info on the relay, lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DasWaff Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 sooo yea about the ground location and more info on the relay, lol The Autozone relay is a 'Pilot' brand and it isn't even behind the parts counter its just on a rack on the sales floor. The Autozone part is: PL-RY1 and it is in "after market lighting accessories". However, I did not see it at any other parts stores... :-( But their web site says they have stores in Wa. This thread has the Bosch info: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55372&highlight=power+window+bosch+relay The relay, control unit, and ground screw are all under the passenger's seat, beneath the carpet. (At least they are on my wagon, and I think they are on your rx sedan too) This location makes the grounds very vulnerable to moisture. Hope this helps, DW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted November 4, 2006 Author Share Posted November 4, 2006 ok thank you, i appreaciate it, so are these relays plug and play or not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DasWaff Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 ok thank you, i appreaciate it, so are these relays plug and play or not? Yes, same pin config and orientation. You can double check though, the digram is printed on both. DW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DasWaff Posted November 5, 2006 Share Posted November 5, 2006 I figured before I zipped this back up I ought take a pic of the power window components under the passenger's side seat. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=13335&cat=500 ...and yes, for those who are curious that is an OEM Fuji Heavy Industries carpet holding ball point pen. BTW... I just did the whole 9 yards on my windows, new relay, cleaned all 4 switches, lubed tracks, and cleaned the ground. Made a huge difference!! windows move way faster and the motors sound much less strained. DW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted November 6, 2006 Share Posted November 6, 2006 awesome, thanks for the heads up. Ive been meaning to attend to the window issue since I got the car.. Originally anticipated tearing into the doors, lubing the tracks, and giving the motors a quick clean-n-lube.. then heard about the relay. this photo makes that part, THAT much simpler because now I know i already have relays for replacement as for the mechanical aspects of the job.. ech. I'm good with windows, but that doesn't mean I like tearing into them.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted November 6, 2006 Author Share Posted November 6, 2006 i got that relay, you didnt tell me i had to rewire it or somthing, its defintly not the same, so i didnt do anything with it. But i lubed all the window tracks, they all go up and down fast and on thier own....ecept for my dirver side rear one, it goes down fine but on its way up it needs help,i think the motors probably hosed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DasWaff Posted November 6, 2006 Share Posted November 6, 2006 i got that relay, you didnt tell me i had to rewire it or somthing, its defintly not the same, so i didnt do anything with it. But i lubed all the window tracks, they all go up and down fast and on thier own....ecept for my dirver side rear one, it goes down fine but on its way up it needs help,i think the motors probably hosed Sorry about the mismatch, but that was the number on the package...(gggrrr) I went to the website and cross checked and the link is: http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=C001&UserAction=performMoreDetail&Parameters=TRUE%7C%7ERelay%7C%7ENONE%7C%7EPilot+Heavy+Duty+Relay%7C%7ENONE%7C%7EFALSE%7C%7EFALSE%7C%7E124003%7C%7E3264%7C%7EPL-RY1%7C%7ENONE%7C%7E%243.99%7C%7ENONE%7C%7ENONE%7C%7ENONE%7C%7ENONE%7C%7E0.15%7C%7EEA%7C%7EB%7C%7EPIL%7C%7Etrue I changed the original post, again sorry all. The autozone number is PL-RY1. Glad the windows are working better. DW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted November 6, 2006 Share Posted November 6, 2006 i got that relay, you didnt tell me i had to rewire it or somthing, its defintly not the same, so i didnt do anything with it. But i lubed all the window tracks, they all go up and down fast and on thier own....ecept for my dirver side rear one, it goes down fine but on its way up it needs help,i think the motors probably hosed There is a good chance you could remove the motor and "remanufRacture" it byt cleaning the armature assembly, and the bearings etc, re lubing it, and putting the whole shebang back together. I have yet to do it myself (lazy) but am planning on it. Electric motors are wonderfully simple machines. There is also a gearbox on the motor, which may also want cleaning and re lubing after 20 years of service.. thats two more points to eliminate physical resistance, which is all you have done by cleaning the rails.. of course, the switch contacts helped a great deal, im sure.. but still, you could think of it as another 1/3 of the job you have yet to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank B Posted June 12, 2008 Share Posted June 12, 2008 Is that the four spade relay? If so, it will replace the headlight relays at a fraction of the cost, and it's a higher amp relay too. I used two in an 86 hatch, worked great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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