Syonyk Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 How much of a groove is too much where the rear main seal sits on the back of an EA82's crankshaft? When I replaced the rear main, there was a fairly noticeable groove where the seal rode, so I pushed the new one in just a bit further than the old one sat. Now it's leaking again (under a week later). I put it in using a screwdriver/hammer to tap it into place - it may not have been perfectly even side to side. Would this be enough to make it leak? Or is it possible that the groove on the crankshaft is deep enough that it's affecting the seal even with it being slightly deeper into the engine? *sighs* And I won't have the new oil pan gasket until Monday, so I can't even pull the engine this weekend to do it. -=Russ=- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpm Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 if there is a groove on the crank, the easiest way to repair this is to use a speedi sleeve. just measure the crank with verniers and order one from your local parts shop. very easy to fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 [quote name=Syonyk I put it in using a screwdriver/hammer to tap it into place - it may not have been perfectly even side to side. Would this be enough to make it leak? Yes. Any damage at all, any distortion, it can and will leak. -=Russ=-[/quote] Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DasWaff Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 Also remember that pushing the seal further inward than flush reduces the size of the oil passage behind it... DW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indrid cold Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 a prior post stated he used a short section of pvc/abs pipe (took old seal in and found a diameter match) as a press to push in the seal as not sure if screwdriver is the best tool for the job. I will be doing my rear seal next couple of weeks so a timely post for me... will be looking for wear on the crank shaft too... BPM, never heard of a speedi sleeve... sounds like the thing I may need also... DasWaff: excellent(update to lower post), would have given you credit but hard to keep track of all them posts: Also, me being a Plumber sounds like you are descibing a, 2" Female I.P. X Female Slip clean-out adapter, with a threaded plug as the driver. I would have confirmed this size but when I went to pick up my rear seal today from local Subaru dlr. the guy handed me a rear oil plate or what ever?..oops, he marked down wrong part number.... so, hopefully at next opportunity I will try out the, DassWaff Seal tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DasWaff Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 Yeah, one of mine... There is a PVC pipe fitting, with one end for gluing and the other end with female threads for a threaded plug. The end designed to glue onto other PVC pipe fits nicely on the rear main seal. If you screw the plug into the pipe you can tap the plug with a rubber mallet to drive the seal into place. I think it is a 2 1/2" PVC pipe, I took the old seal to Home Depot for sizing. I had to do the rear main twice because I used too much grease the first time and drove it too far into the seat. takes a little patience to get it started evenly because it will try to start to go in at an angle, for the very last few taps you can use a piece of 1x4 on edge to get it flush. DW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 Yeah, one of mine... takes a little patience to get it started evenly because it will try to start to go in at an angle, for the very last few taps you can use a piece of 1x4 on edge to get it flush. DW +1 on the flush mount seal "driver" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffast Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 i just tapped gently with a hammer to keep it straight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 You may have a bad thrust bearing in your engine. If you do it will cause your rear and front main seals to leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syonyk Posted November 4, 2006 Author Share Posted November 4, 2006 You may have a bad thrust bearing in your engine. If you do it will cause your rear and front main seals to leak. How would I go about detecting this? And I assume fixing this requires a rebuild (or, more likely, excuse for an EJ22 swap)? -=Russ=- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 grease/oil/lubricate the new seal and install it properly and hopefully that fixes it. of all the seals to leak, what a sucky one to do it for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 Try pushing in on the crank pulley. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DasWaff Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 Try pushing in on the crank pulley. As a bearing test?? DW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted November 5, 2006 Share Posted November 5, 2006 Place socket on breaker bar, take prybar and pry against socket. Watch for shifting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 5, 2006 Share Posted November 5, 2006 As a bearing test?? DW Yeah - thrust bearing prevents the crank from moving forward or back. Push/pull to check for play. It would help to push the clutch in while doing this test. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted November 5, 2006 Share Posted November 5, 2006 Yeah - thrust bearing prevents the crank from moving forward or back. Push/pull to check for play. It would help to push the clutch in while doing this test. GD Hey All, Just anecdotal stuff here...I once bought a Ford pickup from a guy on the side of the road, I pulled him to safety with my Subaru. The transmission lost fluid because of a loose fitting. Anyway, I worked on the thing, got it going and all but it would occaisionaly go into fits. The engine would run rough, spit sputter, then straighten out. This would come and go. The guy I sold it to wanted the parts on it. He pulled the engine down and the thrust bearing was severely worn causing all the comotion. The crank would visibly move if you wedged and pushed, pulled on it. New bearings and crank took care of that. Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syonyk Posted November 5, 2006 Author Share Posted November 5, 2006 I'll test that tomorrow. Clutch in, try to move the crankshaft forwards/backwards. If it moves much, look for a new motor. Check. Much fun as a rebuild on this engine would be, if it needs a rebuild or such now, at 145k miles, I don't think I'll be able to reuse much. And... if the people at the junkyard were correct, there's an EJ22 of some version with 113k miles on it sitting in a local junkyard. -=Russ=- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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