tuner-automotive Posted December 14, 2006 Share Posted December 14, 2006 I just did the tbelt on my 92 2.2l Legacy 5spd. All went well but now it overheats? All the belts are good and theres plenty of antifreeze in the car. at fisrt the heater wouldnt blow cold , but after awhile. 2starts of the car , it finally started to blow hot at the heater. But the gauge on the dash still keeps going up. Whats going on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayne Boncyk Posted December 14, 2006 Share Posted December 14, 2006 My first suspect would be the water pump -- and are you sure you routed the belt exactly the same way as the one you took off? If your routing is correct, and all the timing marks line up properly, then I'd wonder if the pump was still working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smpol19 Posted December 14, 2006 Share Posted December 14, 2006 Possibly some air left in the cooling system. Easiest way to fill it is though the top hose first and then the raditor, this usualy keeps the air bubbles out. Its easy to get air traped in these cars though. Other then that maybe the water pump, but I don't see how you could route the belt so the engine runs and the water pump doesn't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted December 14, 2006 Share Posted December 14, 2006 First off did you open the cooling system to do the timing belt. If you did then you have an air pocket in the cooling system. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svxpert Posted December 14, 2006 Share Posted December 14, 2006 <<All went well but now it overheats?>> let me take a wild guess... you took the radiator out to do the timing belt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowman Posted December 14, 2006 Share Posted December 14, 2006 Another vote for air in the system. Did you bleed the air out using the little bleeder screw on the passenger side of the radiator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuner-automotive Posted December 14, 2006 Author Share Posted December 14, 2006 Im sure theres air in the system as I did remove the rad. for the job. I also filled it thru the radiator and not the tube. Any suggestions on how to rectify this ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted December 14, 2006 Share Posted December 14, 2006 Im sure theres air in the system as I did remove the rad. for the job.I also filled it thru the radiator and not the tube. Any suggestions on how to rectify this ? i did mine like this, filled it through the rad, and turned on the car without the cap, then put on the cap, and then topped the resovior then loosened the air bleeding screw, and voilla! Air free system, worked perfectly with mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted December 14, 2006 Share Posted December 14, 2006 Everyone has thier own way to solve this, and they all work. My father and shop always taught me to fill the cooling system while the car is running and the thermostat has opened. Been doing it this way for many years with many differnt cars, and never had an air pocket. Another way is the same, but with the car on ramps. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayne Boncyk Posted December 14, 2006 Share Posted December 14, 2006 Duh - yeah. I forgot to suggest checking for the obvious first. Something as simple as an air pocket may not be so obvious if you haven't re-filled a Sube's coolant before. :-\ As nipper says, it is best to fill the system with the engine starting out cold, but running. Have the car parked on an upslope (or use ramps) so the radiator is higher than the block, open the radiator cap and loosen the air bleeder screw on the other side of the radiator, and then start the engine & let it idle for a while. The air bubble will purge itself out as the thermostat opens and coolant is circulated thru the system. Top off the fluid level at the radiator filler as the air is purging, and tighten down the bleeder screw once you think most of the air is out of the system (a steady stream of coolant will seep out from the bleeder once all the air is gone). One final top off of coolant at the filler, then put the rad cap back on, and you should be good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svxpert Posted December 15, 2006 Share Posted December 15, 2006 this should also be a +1 for NOT removing the radiator when doing the timing belt. Your just doing extra work and risk overheating your engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuner-automotive Posted December 15, 2006 Author Share Posted December 15, 2006 Well I think were good to go. Started the car cold w/the heater on . Slowly poured fluid into the cap w/the purge screw unscrewed. waited till it was full and then stopped. let the car idle w/cap off until it started to spill out the filler. Capped it and left the purge screw unscrewed. Let it idle for another 10 minutes and no overheat. In fact, it seems like the needle is staying abit lower than it was before the tbelt change. Ill check the rad. again once it cools down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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