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Numbchux

Please Read! EJ swap write-up: ver. 2.0, now in .pdf form

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Current sources:

http://wordpress.suberdave.com/wp-content/files/EA82/EA2EJ.pdf

https://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/mroseusa/EA2EJ.pdf

http://thepantieswithin.com/bwindle/document/Car/EA2EJ.pdf

http://offroadingsubarus.com/downloads/EA2EJ.pdf

 

 

 

I've read, and proofread, and edited. I think I've got it pretty much how I want it. So I'd really like you guys to read it over, and make any changes you guys think are necessary. it's pretty close to being ready to be converted to .pdf form.
 

Edited by Numbchux
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OK:

Page 3:

 

XT6 transmissions are more desirable for street cars than offroad cars - a heavier flywheel is better for more torque at low RPMS.

 

 

I suggest this adjustment:

 

3. An XT6 Pressure Plate should be used to hold the extra torque/hp. (only if keeping the EA transmission)

 

If using an EA81 transmission, the important part is the pressure plate. Get one for an XT6. You'll also need to get a throw out bearing for an '85 Nissan 720 pickup to run that PP with an EA81 4spd. The stock EA81 clutch plate is more than adequate when paired with an XT6 pressure plate. 1

 

 

For money sake (specifically, I was virtually broke, and happen to have a normal EA82 clutch kit already), I used the 4-cyl disc and pressure plate, and so far it's held. Knock on wood!

 

5. You'll need a fuel pump from a Fuel Injected EA car (if yours isn't already), to supply the necessary fuel pressure.

 

 

 

 

 

 

aaaaaaaaaaand all the way to page 20: "YOUR new motor" ;)

 

This is absolutely stellar! Thanks for your time. I can't wait for it to warm up so i can get my wagon finished.....

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ok, I replaced the flywheel sentence with this:

 

"Either an XT6 or a 4-cyl EA82 flywheel can be used, however the XT6 flywheel is a bit lighter than the 4-cyl version. So for faster revs (street use), the XT6 one is preferable. And for better low rpm torque (offroad), the 4-cyl one would be more helpful."

 

as well as those other things :grin:

 

 

I'm usually pretty good about 'you're' and 'your'....good thing you caught that!

 

 

but other than that, how's the wiring section? I tried to get into plenty of detail, but without it turning into 80 pages.....I hope I found a somewhat happy medium.

 

 

how about pictures? anything else that maybe should be included? how about those of you that are looking into the swap, anything you'd like to see?

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good job... i had to point out the you're/your ESPECIALLY because it was in the last sentence of the whole thing :banana:

 

as far as the wiring goes, I haven't finished wiring my car but you seem to have presented it as simply and straightforwardly as anyone could ask for. :headbang:

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awesome read.

 

with this and the harness stripping that NoahDL88 is offering hell even i could do this. :headbang: man, what to do what to do.

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"2. The bolt pattern for the flywheel on the EA cars is a bit smaller than the EJ, and is also asymmetrical so that the timing marks are aligned correctly. The EJ series cam timing marks are on the crank pulley, and since the ignition timing is computer controlled, there's no need for the ignition timing marks. so the bolt pattern is symmetrical.

 

The ideal way to do this is have a local machine shop weld the holes shut, and then redrill them (should cost about $30). 1"

 

Just take out the "should cost about $30." Someone had a machine shop do this and they charged them like $250! Just leave it without a price estimate.

 

Only skimmed the wiring section so far but it looks awesome...:headbang:

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"2. The bolt pattern for the flywheel on the EA cars is a bit smaller than the EJ, and is also asymmetrical so that the timing marks are aligned correctly. The EJ series cam timing marks are on the crank pulley, and since the ignition timing is computer controlled, there's no need for the ignition timing marks. so the bolt pattern is symmetrical.

 

The ideal way to do this is have a local machine shop weld the holes shut, and then redrill them (should cost about $30). 1"

 

Just take out the "should cost about $30." Someone had a machine shop do this and they charged them like $250! Just leave it without a price estimate.

 

Only skimmed the wiring section so far but it looks awesome...:headbang:

 

that's right, I think you mentioned this in a previous version, and I forgot to update it. I'll be sure to get that this time.

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BALANCING the flywheel should cost about $30. It did for me, anyway.

Having my flywheel's holes milled out was $90.

I don't believe it's necessary to fill them before they're elongated. If the EJ holes were the same radius from the center but just off to the side, then lateral/rotational slippage would be a potential issue.. but their radiuses are longer which means that the flywheel isn't going anywhere.

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I offer this service (redrill the flywheel) at $80 :cool:

 

 

I will have to take you up on that one :cool:

 

I am almost ready for the DR swap... once I get the thing running better... and check the axles Ive got.. and ... do you do the driveshaft lengthen/shorten?

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Not sure of this is something that you want to add or consider, but I used my stock EA81 radiator on my EJ swap. I cut a small piece of the old hose and slipped it over the collar and the EJ hose fit nicely. The hose clamp tightened it up well. I have yet to turn on the car, so we'll see how the pressure holds.

 

For the bottom, I needed a longer hose w/a 90 degree bend to have it fit the collar. This is mainly b/c of the lift. I went to a parts shop and searched through their radiator hose section and found a hose that was close to what I needed.

 

BW

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I will have to take you up on that one :cool:

 

I am almost ready for the DR swap... once I get the thing running better... and check the axles Ive got.. and ... do you do the driveshaft lengthen/shorten?

 

driveshaft , i could maybe

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Not sure of this is something that you want to add or consider' date=' but I used my stock EA81 radiator on my EJ swap. I cut a small piece of the old hose and slipped it over the collar and the EJ hose fit nicely. The hose clamp tightened it up well. I have yet to turn on the car, so we'll see how the pressure holds.

 

For the bottom, I needed a longer hose w/a 90 degree bend to have it fit the collar. This is mainly b/c of the lift. I went to a parts shop and searched through their radiator hose section and found a hose that was close to what I needed.

 

BW[/quote']

 

I have tried the hose inside a hose trick before with limited success.

 

For your 2nd point please provide the part number you used and maybe a brand or store that you bought it from. That helps alot.

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I like the PDF alot. I have to comment on the flex hose thing though.

 

Napa sells 2 kinds of flex hose. One has coiled wire inside the center of the hose and regular rubber hose on the ends. THe other kind they sell is an RV/boat type hose that I think is suited for submersion or something special but its an absolute &$^%@ to work with. The writeup indicates that the flex hose is not flexible enough for a lifted rig but that'd only be true on the 2nd type of hose im talking about.

 

The ones that are PERFECT are the ones that are flex in the middle only and are all different lengths and they have some with different size ends.

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I like the PDF alot. I have to comment on the flex hose thing though.

 

Napa sells 2 kinds of flex hose. One has coiled wire inside the center of the hose and regular rubber hose on the ends. THe other kind they sell is an RV/boat type hose that I think is suited for submersion or something special but its an absolute &$^%@ to work with. The writeup indicates that the flex hose is not flexible enough for a lifted rig but that'd only be true on the 2nd type of hose im talking about.

 

The ones that are PERFECT are the ones that are flex in the middle only and are all different lengths and they have some with different size ends.

 

hmmm...ok, didn't know that. Thanks for the tip!!

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I wanted to take a look at this PDF but just says site maintenance.

 

Can this be downloaded somehow?

 

TIA

 

huh....I completely forgot that this post hadn't been updated with the latest version.

 

the latest version, and some other handy files can be found in the USRM here:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73676

 

 

I'll also update the original post with the same info. OOPS, never mind, it's been too long, I can't edit it....

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Can someone tell me why the ej flywheel cant stay on the ej motor,rather than redrilling the original?

 

the teeth where the starter engages the flywheel. there's been talk of re-mounting the starter to use the EJ flywheel. but nothing's become of it. I believe Phizinza was the one who's done most of the research, but he ended up just using an EJ trans, so it wasn't an issue. search for his posts....you may find the info to get you started.

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I've read, and proofread, and edited. I think I've got it pretty much how I want it. So I'd really like you guys to read it over, and make any changes you guys think are necessary. it's pretty close to being ready to be converted to .pdf form.

http://putstuff.putfile.com/34897/4444849

 

post #12 for version 2.0

anyone know where this is .I clic on the link and it says it has been removed.???

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huh....I completely forgot that this post hadn't been updated with the latest version.

 

the latest version, and some other handy files can be found in the USRM here:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73676

 

 

I'll also update the original post with the same info. OOPS, never mind, it's been too long, I can't edit it....

 

 

anyone know where this is .I clic on the link and it says it has been removed.???

 

I really, really, really wish people would read the whole thread before responding. not just the first post

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