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Wheels on the Subie Go Round But Won't Come Off~!!


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Hi Guys!!

I told you we would be great fodder for your laughing pleasures.....here goes:

 

DH (dearest husband) has started to try to work on our new 1994 Subaru Legacy LSi 4WD. Since it needs suspension work, he started with taking off the wheels to get a better look. Only thing is--he got the lugs off, but the wheel won't come off!!! (Okay, okay--once you have composed yourself I can continue..:rolleyes: :rolleyes: ......................) So!!! Anyone have any ideas??? How can he get the wheels off??? DH idea is to take to tire joint and pay them to do a "tire rotation" and let them try it have at it.....WDYT??? Is he asking for trouble, or will they do it??? They might just send him away "unrotated", but he figures it's worth a try.....

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[...]Only thing is--he got the lugs off, but the wheel won't come off!!! (Okay, okay--once you have composed yourself I can continue..:rolleyes: :rolleyes: ......................) So!!! Anyone have any ideas??? How can he get the wheels off???[...]

It would seem that the wheel centerbores are stuck on the hubs due to corrosion. One "trick" that often works is to put the lugnuts back on, but leave them a turn or two loose. With the car off the jack (tires on the ground), rock the car side to side fairly aggressively; just don't dent the bodywork in the process :) .

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It would seem that the wheel centerbores are stuck on the hubs due to corrosion. One "trick" that often works is to put the lugnuts back on, but leave them a turn or two loose. With the car off the jack (tires on the ground), rock the car side to side fairly aggressively; just don't dent the bodywork in the process :) .

 

All of the above, spray with penetrating oil. You could also try moving the car, yes even driving it in the driveway with the lugs slightly loose. HTH Don't do it if you're not comfortable with it. It's been effective for me tho.

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I'll second loosening the lugs just a bit, rolling the car and hitting the brakes, it's worked for me in the past.

 

I use a bit of antisieze and paint the hub part of the rotors to avoid this.

 

Nice, I'm not crazy! That's exactly what i did, very liberally coated the 'hat' part of the rotor and it has been working great!

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Use a large 5 lbs sledge on the back of the rim, its what we do at work.

 

If its an alloy wheel, you might use a block of wood between the wheel and the hammer.

 

+1

 

i second doing it this way.that's how i've always done it.but when putting wheels back on,clean up the center hub area.and use anti-seize in that area

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Use a large 5 lbs sledge on the back of the rim, its what we do at work.

 

If its an alloy wheel, you might use a block of wood between the wheel and the hammer.

 

Actually he did try that .....a sledge with a realllly long handle....didn't budge it...and that was after an overnight "soaking" with WD-40...I told him to get some other stuff that works better, but couldn't remember the name of product...

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It would seem that the wheel centerbores are stuck on the hubs due to corrosion. One "trick" that often works is to put the lugnuts back on, but leave them a turn or two loose. With the car off the jack (tires on the ground), rock the car side to side fairly aggressively; just don't dent the bodywork in the process :) .

 

Yuppers, he/we tried that too!! He even dragged me out in the cold, to the semi warm garage to help him rock it....didn't budge the wheels but we did scoot the car a few inches....*heheheheee*... as for denting the body--actually it already has a nice "side swipe" right on the one front fender, so no worries there!! I told DH, maybe that is why there is the "crunch" there, someone else tried to do this trick, and dented the car...:brow: :brow:

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All of the above, spray with penetrating oil. You could also try moving the car, yes even driving it in the driveway with the lugs slightly loose. HTH Don't do it if you're not comfortable with it. It's been effective for me tho.

 

I did think of that last night, but in the cold and dark, didn't want to suggest it to DH and then have it backfire on me...I will tell him today, and see if he wants to try it......Worth a shot!!! (also wasn't sure I was being uber-safe with that "idea", but if others have done it with sucess, I guess I'm not crazy after all...;) )

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I find a dam good kick to the tire wall breaks the wheel loose 9 times out of 10 (also good for releiving stress).

One time that didnt work i drove the car to the nearest shop and paid $5 for them to balance the wheel. Was worth the money to watch the mechanic person try to get the wheel off, and i learned a few new words.

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Here is one you can help with.

(Like Keltik says)

 

Mule kick it.

 

After loosening the lug nutz.

Have DH place buttox (sic sp) near fender.

 

You embrace him - gotta luv this part eh?.

(you are steadying him)

 

Have him rear up and mule kick one side wall

Go to opposite side of tire and again.

 

Give him a nice peck on the cheek when he's through.

 

Good luck, I use the loose & drive around method

when this method fails.

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You know what causes this is usally when the wheel lugs are not torqued the same.

Uneven lug nut tightening can cause certain problems, but the one discussed in this thread is more typically a consequence of the use of salt by road crews trying to keep streets clear in winter.

 

Maybe they should use flame throwers instead. :Flame:

 

(I just had to come up with an excuse for using that smiley. :grin: )

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Uneven lug nut tightening can cause certain problems, but the one discussed in this thread is more typically a consequence of the use of salt by road crews trying to keep streets clear in winter.

 

Maybe they should use flame throwers instead. :Flame:

 

(I just had to come up with an excuse for using that smiley. :grin: )

 

ya ! ill pull out my flame thrower that should get off that wheels :lol:(but im not joking it should)

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those suckers even corrode on here in CA. I block it up solidly and have used my six pound sledge on some. I've also had good luck with a large piece of 4x4 about 4 feet long. I hate when easterners bring thier rusty cars here for major maintence beofr3e driving home. At least on one Subaru we just had to fix a wiper, but the engine blew on that one.

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Yeah.. i usually just kick the crap out of it... but if that doesn't work, find a deadblow hammer, doesn't have to be huge... and smack the rim a few times... also, like everyone has said, PB Blaster is a life saver, and if you have a heat source (MAPP gas, or Aceto' ) just heat the crap out of the area, then let it rip, kicking, hammering, yelling at.. you know.. good stuff ;)

the key is, to shock it enough to break the rust bond... do the bigger the hammer... the better the blow :headbang:

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Okay, you guys rock :headbang: :headbang: !!!!....Last night DH, read the posts and said, "hey, I thought about that but wasn't sure it would work...." So he went outside and took the Subie for a "turn around the block". It took some "technique refining", but he got the front two wheels un-rusted!!! :banana::clap::banana::clap: He is out there right now, working on his "rear wheel technique".

 

For the fronts, he loosened two of the lugs, drove about 20 mph, and then did some slight turns to "jerk" it loose. I guess his plan for the back end, since he cannot get the turn method to work for them (in our sub he can't turn tight enough...), he's got to come up with some potholes or something....he says he'll let me know when he returns what worked so I can post it....:banana:

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:clap: :clap: He got one rear wheel off!!

 

:mad: :mad: The other rear wheel still refuses to come off!!

 

He said he loosed 2 lug nuts and drove it on a local potholey dirt road. It took him a few "laps" but finally the one tire broke loose. But the other tire refuses to budge!!! So here comes the :Flame: :Flame: !!!

 

But we have to get the tanks filled with gas, so that has to wait. BUT!! He ordered the new shocks/struts and springs with all the other parts necessary to do a conversion....$$???? $1,000!!! :eek: :eek: ..... This car better run for a LONG LONG TIME!!!!!

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loosen all the lugnuts ~1 full turn, drive check drive ....

 

have him take the tire tool with him.

 

 

when he sees it is free tighten the lugs (~ 75 lb/ft)

and come home

 

no heat needed, lots can go wrong if applied incorrectly

 

just an attempt at saving more grief.

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Well, I had to give DH "Acetelyne torch" lessons,:Flame: but I did the heat :Flame: while he "tapped" the wheel with a sledge hammer. It didn't take much of either (about 1-2 minutes..) and that rear wheel popped right off!! :banana::banana: :banana:

 

So now DH is working on removing rear suspension...auto parts store called yesterday, and the new parts came in!!:clap: So DH will be picking them up today!!:burnout:

 

(btw-- I just love the :Flame: :Flame: :Flame: smiley!!)

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