hey all im just wonering what was better in your opinion because i can get shocks for my 87 wagon the will lift it about 7 inches for 70 bucks a peice and have better travle or i could spend 300 on a 6 inch lift that sounds like a wast of money to me so any iput would be great thanks ~~~~ subaruguru

Go with the body lift, if you don't you're gonna over extend your axles and be breaking them really frequently.

 

theres a reason everyone here goes with the 300 dollar kit, and doesn't go the cheap half rump roast route. go with the SJR or the PK Ozified, and i ensure you won't be dissapointed.

and shocks by themselves won't give any lift...

 

springs will...

 

and after you buy all 4 corners for 70 bucks, you're at 300 bucks...:-\

and after you buy all 4 corners for 70 bucks, you're at 300 bucks...:-\

 

Good call on your math being better than mine

hey all im just wonering what was better in your opinion because i can get shocks for my 87 wagon the will lift it about 7 inches for 70 bucks a peice and have better travle

 

Impossible.

 

GD

Impossible.

 

GD

 

+1

 

7" suspension lift for a subie? yes, yes, while you're there, NASA would love it if you could find proof of water on mars.

As everyone is saying, just go the lift block route.

 

You have to do the lift block b/c it's got independent axles. A suspension lift will only work so much before you tear apart your boots. Usually suspension lifts done by cranking up the front height adjustment and putting Honda Accord springs in the rear or something like that.

 

If you want real lift, go with the lift blocks.

 

good luck.

 

BW

well i thought of al that im not going to just put the springs and shoks in it i have a friend who works at a fabrication shop and he is going to help me lower my diff. so i can put the shocks in wihtought taring my boots but i do have a slight question about how i would lower the t-case and engine ive seen it done any input would be great thanks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

subaruguru:headbang:

i have a friend who works at a fabrication shop but i do have a slight question about how i would lower the t-case and engine ive seen it done any input would be great thanks.subaruguru:headbang:

 

This is "roughly" how it is done:

Front:

http://www.subarubrat.com/liftday2.htm

Rear:

http://www.subarubrat.com/liftday.htm

 

I am in the middle of doing my Loyale (6")

how i would lower the t-case and engine ive seen it done any input would be great thanks.

 

a body lift. that's what we're referring to. dropping the entire suspension and drivetrain.

thanks the pics are a huge help do you think that would work on a 87 gl wagon and how long would it take to mae and intall that withought taking the engine out??? thanks loads guys

Take a look underneath your car.

 

You need to put lift blocks under the engine crossmember, the radius rod mount, the carrier bearing, the torsion bar in the rear and then make something to lower the rear diff. There also needs to be a spacer for the front struts. You can either get longer shocks in the rear or make a spacer there too.

 

basically you are creating a spacer between all of the major components and the body. It's possible to do the lift w/o removing the engine. You do have to unbolt the crossmembers.

 

BW

and how long would it take to mae and intall that withought taking the engine out?

Lots of blocks, jacks, and hands is all that is needed.

By the sounds of how much you know about the underneth of your car, I suggest you buy a lift kit, not make on.

oh i know plenty about the underneath of my car its i was just wondering how long it would take plus i havent got the money for a lift and they dont have one that is tall enough for me like i said 7 inch is what im going for and it will happen

The higher you go, the more work it will be.

 

For 3-4 inches, you could get away with a minimum number of lift blocks and a little bit more angles on your axles.

 

For 6 inches and more you will need to put lift blocks on every attachment point.

 

For greater then 6 inches, you may want to add cross bracing between some of the lift blocks to maintain structural integrity.

 

For 8 inches and higher, the cross bracing may get so invloved that what you end up with will resemble a complete subframe between the body and suspension parts.

 

Good luck

Rollie

yeah, and when you go to a 6" and a above with a subframe and a second tcase... your talking a lot of fabwork. but then you go to the argument. your never lifting the body away from the frame (unibody!) and the engine and tranny stay in place... :-p which is what suspension lift is. they also use blocks to do suspension lifts on hum-vees and death blocks on the rear of regular lifts.... just fuel to fire...

 

 

but in all essence do the lift kit. you'll save yourself time and money in the long run. if your going to do something like the 8" lift i have. there's a lot of custom fabwork, subframe and since your at... it be a smart idea to tie a second tcase in. and maybe some solid axles.... :-p