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My car must love the taste of coolant


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Uhg im so dissapointed. I put brand new, DEALER gaskets, wire wheeled the surfaces, put the gaskets on, torqued them to exactly 15.9 Foot lbs each, and double check them all. Put it all back together, started it up, ran well, drove it two days no cooalnt burning or anything, ran well. Now its stumbling and stuttering at idle, seems down on power, and it get poofs of coolant smoke from a warm start and i can smell it when restarting it. I dont know what i did wrong!!! What the hell! Do i need to retorque the gaskets or what! Im seriously going to sell this thing in a few weeks, im sick and TIRED of working on it, ESPECIALLY when this is my 3rd time doing this. Me=Pissed. I want my mazda back....

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"15.9 Foot lbs each"

 

bit of tip there that he wasn't doing HG.

 

Time for a leak down test I'd say.

 

Leak down testing Link

 

Take one variable out of the equation.

 

skip

 

please connect the dots for me, and help enlighten me further..

 

why does the given data indicate a need for a leakdown test? poor valve seals leading to blown intake gasket? I am missing something in this equation.. I realize you mentioned it as a rule-out as much as anything else, but it would not have occurred to me.

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we are going to do a Carbon Monoxide test for the coolant monday too sniff out a headgasket. No i did not replace the headgaskets ever in this car.

 

OK. sorry I must have been thinkin of someone else whos done HG's and posted bout it. To me that sounds like what is goin on.

 

One other remote possibility is that your turbo has a small crack in it and coolant is leaking to exhaust side. Very unlikely but I have seen it once. It was caused I think by a failed wastegate causing over boosting and overheating.

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Having just gone through most of what you are talking about I was suspecting a cracked turbo also and having a spare good one on hand I swaped it to no avail. I had already changed intake gaskets. I decided to pull the supected head but could find nothing wrong with the HG. I happened to be looking at the exhaust side and lo adn behold the dreaded exhaust crack. I had a spare good head to replace it and that solved the problem.

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Yeah those cracks between the valves can eventually make it to the ehxaust port. Check out the "splitting Head ache" thread and take a look at the pictures. It shows just how far the crack can go before it hits the port. granted it's on a 6 cylinder but they get the same cracks.

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ha well im gonna try some of that Bar's Headgasket and Head crack repair. Its worth a shot, if it stops even for a month i dont care, as long as i get to sell it. It seems like most failures/clogs are from people not flushing the antifreeze out of the system, wich chemicly reacts with the stop leaks silicit forumula or somthing and it gels the antifreeze. ill be out 4$ + coolant if it doesnt work.

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ha well im gonna try some of that Bar's Headgasket and Head crack repair. Its worth a shot, if it stops even for a month i dont care, as long as i get to sell it. It seems like most failures/clogs are from people not flushing the antifreeze out of the system, wich chemicly reacts with the stop leaks silicit forumula or somthing and it gels the antifreeze. ill be out 4$ + coolant if it doesnt work.

 

Unwise, ESPECIALLY if you even think about trying to use the heater.. that stuff clogs things up, and its bad karma to go and sell a car like that.

 

headgaskets are not difficult, but ask me about that again this time next week..

 

but either which way, adding "stop leak" is just asking for trouble.. it means there is NO way you could ever sell it to ANYONE you know, and whoever you sell it to is gonna blow it up within a month, and come looking for you.

 

Like I said, talk to me about the headgaskets in a month. Until now the most complex job I have had to do on a car was timing belts, suspension work, lightweight type stuff.. and i am still anticipating knocking a homerun on these HGs in under 72 hours.. if I am lucky maybe even a good 24 hour session.

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That stop leak stuff doesn't work on flat-4's due to not being able to effectively drain out the coolant from the heads. Plus there's no way it's going to fix the exhaust port crack if that's your problem.

 

Just sell it as-is so at least someone has a chance of not causing more problems by thinking there's nothing wrong with it. Trying to patch it with that crap is underhanded and dishonest. Besides that it won't work - not even for long enough to sell it. It just won't work at all. I tried it for the hell of it on my sedan - I was rewarded with no heat, a mess in my driveway, a head gasket job the next weekend, and a VERY cold heater core replacement job the following month :rolleyes:...... hey - I like to do some "mythbusting" once in a while ya know? I pretty much knew it wouldn't work but I figured (wrongly) that it couldn't hurt. Well it can, and will, make a holy mess and it does seal things up but good - just not the right things.

 

After I replaced the HG's like I should have done in the first place it's 100% again. I've put 6,000 on it since, and haven't added a drop of coolant.

 

"Takes your lumps" like everyone else who is unwilling/unable to fix things properly. Don't crap in someone else's cherios.

 

GD

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That stop leak stuff doesn't work on flat-4's due to not being able to effectively drain out the coolant from the heads. Plus there's no way it's going to fix the exhaust port crack if that's your problem.

 

Just sell it as-is so at least someone has a chance of not causing more problems by thinking there's nothing wrong with it. Trying to patch it with that crap is underhanded and dishonest. Besides that it won't work - not even for long enough to sell it. It just won't work at all. I tried it for the hell of it on my sedan - I was rewarded with no heat, a mess in my driveway, a head gasket job the next weekend, and a VERY cold heater core replacement job the following month :rolleyes:...... hey - I like to do some "mythbusting" once in a while ya know? I pretty much knew it wouldn't work but I figured (wrongly) that it couldn't hurt. Well it can, and will, make a holy mess and it does seal things up but good - just not the right things.

 

After I replaced the HG's like I should have done in the first place it's 100% again. I've put 6,000 on it since, and haven't added a drop of coolant.

 

"Takes your lumps" like everyone else who is unwilling/unable to fix things properly. Don't crap in someone else's cherios.

 

GD

 

I agree with GD and everyone else. Don't use that crap, it won't work, and it will gaurantee someone else will be more screwed and the car will be junked. Sell it as is or fix the HG's. Or just scrap it yourself and sell us the parts:clap:

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Stop leak is bad stuff...

 

My buddy tried it in his Ford Taurus (I know, not a Subaru) because of a leak in the radiator. It clogged up the radiator and the heater core, and the radiator still leaked from that spot! So not only did he have to replace the radiator, but the heater core as well.

 

If you have a head gasket leak, its not going to seal it up. If you have a cracked head, its not going to seal it up. It will seal up your heater core, and possibly your radiator.

 

If you are going to sell it, offer it up to someone who will take care of it. If you were in the area, I'd take it off your hands to keep you from doing any more damage to it.

 

BTW, you buy a 20 yr old car, you have to expect not to get what you put into it back. I managed to pull it off with one car (my silver wagon), but another car I lost big on (my XT). It is just how it goes.

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yea i suppose im not gonna use the stuff, but it wont start now, so that makes it difficult to sell. The filthy piece of ************ just starts, sputters misfires backfires and shorty dies. pressing the gas makes it die faster. Ohh i hate this car, i never want a subaru again, im going to obvously have to take a loss on the car and get it the hell out of my life.

 

And excuse me, i took good care of this worthless peice of ************, i brought it back, and it has been nothing but an ungratful *************** that eats my pocket and has me walking more than driving. I washed it, never drove it really hard, never did anything bad to it, let it warm up in the mornings, made sure it had the oil topped up, if somthing broke, i fixed it.

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yea mistake #1, you dont buy a turbo 80's car as a daily driver. u rely on. Oh yea it tested negative on the headgasket test. I think it wont start cause of the CTS, the soldering job isnt holding up, its coming off, so i yanked off both wires, and now the car starts easier but dies right away with the ECS light on when its started for the breif 5 seconds. If not im thinking like that crack in the intake tube from the MAF got bigger....

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yea i suppose im not gonna use the stuff, but it wont start now, so that makes it difficult to sell. The filthy piece of ************ just starts, sputters misfires backfires and shorty dies. pressing the gas makes it die faster. Ohh i hate this car, i never want a subaru again, im going to obvously have to take a loss on the car and get it the hell out of my life.

 

And excuse me, i took good care of this worthless peice of ************, i brought it back, and it has been nothing but an ungratful *************** that eats my pocket and has me walking more than driving. I washed it, never drove it really hard, never did anything bad to it, let it warm up in the mornings, made sure it had the oil topped up, if somthing broke, i fixed it.

i'm not saying anything useful,

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