del Posted July 24, 2007 Author Share Posted July 24, 2007 The cross member that is at the rear of the tranny. Does not hook at all to the tranny. Is it important, I assume it was put there for a reason? del Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted July 24, 2007 Share Posted July 24, 2007 The cross member that is at the rear of the tranny. Does not hook at all to the tranny. Is it important, I assume it was put there for a reason? del well, that is where the transmission crossmember for the auto's mount....AA calls it the shift linkage gaurd in their lift kit. that's my wagon pictured in your post with the lift in it, shortly after that was taken, I removed that crossmember, with no negative effects (but with it gone, was able to raise my exhaust a couple inches Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
del Posted July 24, 2007 Author Share Posted July 24, 2007 well, that is where the transmission crossmember for the auto's mount....AA calls it the shift linkage gaurd in their lift kit. that's my wagon pictured in your post with the lift in it, shortly after that was taken, I removed that crossmember, with no negative effects (but with it gone, was able to raise my exhaust a couple inches Numbchhux thanks for the reply, I thought it could be left off. Have considered tucking up the exhaust when finished. Enjoy the lift. del Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swedenboy Posted July 24, 2007 Share Posted July 24, 2007 Looks fine Del... Would be happy if you took some measurements of the parts you're building and post them later... I'm planning to copy your project and lift my car in the end of summer. The measurements would be great because I will have to cut/make the parts at another place than the car. With your help I hope to "get it right" the first time and save some time in my manufacturing... But great job so far! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
del Posted July 24, 2007 Author Share Posted July 24, 2007 Looks fine Del... Would be happy if you took some measurements of the parts you're building and post them later... I'm planning to copy your project and lift my car in the end of summer. The measurements would be great because I will have to cut/make the parts at another place than the car. With your help I hope to "get it right" the first time and save some time in my manufacturing... But great job so far! The two blocks I have made so far are 8" long (sorry no metric measurements, here in merka we are metrically challenged). The two bolts that hold the cross member up are hooked together by a brace. One fillips screw and it comes out through the top. Used this as a gage to drill the holes. In other words I never measured them. The strut braces I cut 4" pipe at the same angle the strut tops are mounted at. I wanted the strut tops the same distance apart, just the distance of the lift (my case 2") farther down. I have a parts car, so I used the strut caps off it (need I say be careful when taking apart struts, they will kill you if you do it wrong). I made plates (same thickness as caps) to fit the strut caps, center hole and mounting studs. When I had the three parts welded together be careful to line them up. tips; Mark the front, make a right and left (do not ask on either tip). Hope this helps. Recommendation if you at all question the strut caps, buy them (sjr comes to mind). del Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
del Posted July 25, 2007 Author Share Posted July 25, 2007 A note on drill bit size for the cross member spacer. I drilled all the way through, with a press, the same size as the original bolts. Then I drilled out the two bottom holes with the same size of bolts I can find locally (7/16"). I did not have to drill out the cross member. del Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
del Posted July 27, 2007 Author Share Posted July 27, 2007 Worked on my lift last night. Installed the six blocks, that lower the radius rods. need to work on the steering. Bought a steering shaft off a subaru legacy (not outback), it is a half inch too short. Does the steering column slide forward by chance? Need to work on the shifter. I think fwd is currently unavailable. Need to raise the back so it at least is level. I read somewhere accord springs will work. Front or back, what year? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 Late 80's early 90's. Up untill 93 when they changed the spring design on the accord. You'll want to use the front prings. In all actuallity, almost any honda civic/acura integra spring from 88-00 will be about the same as the accord ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swedenboy Posted August 3, 2007 Share Posted August 3, 2007 I read somewhere above that the linkage to transmission and 4wd shifter would be to short after lifting. Didn't even think about that. So how do you fix that? do you put extensions in the top or bottom??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted August 3, 2007 Share Posted August 3, 2007 I am doing a lift in Blu (1997 Outback) and the kit is all good from AA, except one thing. The shop called me to tell me the dogbone engine mount is now 2.5" too short. ANy suggestions on how to deal with this? nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
del Posted August 3, 2007 Author Share Posted August 3, 2007 I read somewhere above that the linkage to transmission and 4wd shifter would be to short after lifting. Didn't even think about that. So how do you fix that? do you put extensions in the top or bottom??? Will find out soon, today off to the welder to work on the steering shaft and some other welding projects. I sold my other small car yesterday, so I need to get this one on the road. So expect some progress. del Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azbret Posted August 3, 2007 Share Posted August 3, 2007 I cut mine and then sleaved on a piece of pipe and welded it. Bret Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted August 3, 2007 Share Posted August 3, 2007 I am doing a lift in Blu (1997 Outback) and the kit is all good from AA, except one thing. The shop called me to tell me the dogbone engine mount is now 2.5" too short. ANy suggestions on how to deal with this? nipper I was going to compare stock legacy with ea82. But I can't find my ea82 piece... Seems like its longer, but not sure how much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
del Posted August 3, 2007 Author Share Posted August 3, 2007 I am doing a lift in Blu (1997 Outback) and the kit is all good from AA, except one thing. The shop called me to tell me the dogbone engine mount is now 2.5" too short. ANy suggestions on how to deal with this? nipper If the piece is steel, cut it in half and weld a 2.5" spacer in the middle. I was going to compare stock legacy with ea82. But I can't find my ea82 piece... Seems like its longer, but not sure how much. The spacing on ea82 bolts I never measured them with a tape, just used the crossmember bolts to find the spacing. Sorry as long as the spacing is right, I did not care what the measurement was. Only now I wish I had, too late now.del Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted August 3, 2007 Share Posted August 3, 2007 now the next question, since i dont have the car in front of me, can the car be driven for a short period of time without this? It's an automatic nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted August 3, 2007 Share Posted August 3, 2007 It can be, just be easy on the throttle as much as possible so you do't risk tearing at the motor mounts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reveeen Posted August 3, 2007 Share Posted August 3, 2007 well, that is where the transmission crossmember for the auto's mount....AA calls it the shift linkage gaurd in their lift kit. that's my wagon pictured in your post with the lift in it, shortly after that was taken, I removed that crossmember, with no negative effects (but with it gone, was able to raise my exhaust a couple inches That, I guess you could/would call it a cross member, kind of performs a drive shaft "loop" function. In case of drive shaft front failure that, well, cross member keeps the drive shaft from hitting the ground and pole vaulting you all over the landscape. If you ever have seen the results of front drive shaft failure it might be a fair to good idea to put something back there (for what it would cost). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azbret Posted August 3, 2007 Share Posted August 3, 2007 motor mounts are quite pricey.... even a piece of flat stock with holes drilled it would be better than nothing....... Bret Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
del Posted August 9, 2007 Author Share Posted August 9, 2007 modified legacy. both stock pieces. Does anyone have a picture of this in the car? Stock preferred. There is a large end and a small end, which one goes where? My steering wheel is way off now, and yes we did mark it so it would be at least close. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted August 9, 2007 Share Posted August 9, 2007 tou may as well pul lthe steering wheel and center it. the steering with therack and tie rods has not changed, so this willbe ok when i changed my front crossmember from a fwd sedan to a 4wd wagon one, my steering wheel was upside down. this is due to where the pinch bolt fits with the notch on the shafts. i just need to flip the wheel 180 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
del Posted August 10, 2007 Author Share Posted August 10, 2007 tou may as well pul lthe steering wheel and center it. the steering with therack and tie rods has not changed, so this willbe ok when i changed my front crossmember from a fwd sedan to a 4wd wagon one, my steering wheel was upside down. this is due to where the pinch bolt fits with the notch on the shafts. i just need to flip the wheel 180 Thats to simple, I need to find a more difficult solution. Just kidding thanks for the idea, now I know how to fix it. del Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
del Posted August 11, 2007 Author Share Posted August 11, 2007 Today I worked on the shifter. Two things I have to say are, this is a two inch lift, and this is not the proper way, but is how I did it. First gear put the lever rubbing against the sheet metal. I trimmed the offending metal. All the gears now appear to work, no test drive yet. my other problem was the d/r shifter was hitting the centre consul before it went into fwd. My solution was to take out the shifter and take my b.f.h. (very big hammer) and beat it flatter, and now it will shift into all positions. Note I have not drove it yet, need lights and insurance (monday), and the little mount at the back of the shifter is not spaced down. del Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
del Posted August 12, 2007 Author Share Posted August 12, 2007 I spaced the centre bearing down. I tried turning the bearing over but then it touched the exhaust, so I found longer bolts and spacers and this is the result. sorry about angle of pic. del Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted August 14, 2007 Share Posted August 14, 2007 I dont know if you are going to have this issue but i thought i would share. Seems to be a problem with scorpian lift kits http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=94392#post94392 nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
del Posted August 15, 2007 Author Share Posted August 15, 2007 Today my nephew came over with his stock 90 something loyal, so I had to put them together and snap a few shots. Where did that tree come from. I did have to move his car, and man I hate auto seatbelts, glad mine has just regular belts. Now for a question of taste, the back originally sat very high, and I as yet have not lifted it. Do I leave it alone, or raise it one or two inches? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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