On my 92 Loyale

 

1) The rotor is held by a tiny screw which is a major b1tch to replace. You cannot see the hole, and it is hard to align the rotor with the hole to drive the screw threw it. The whole procedure is done without seeing it. I turned the ignition key a few times to turn the distributor and could not get it in a good position.

 

Eventually I lost that tiny screw, looked for it for half an hour, could not find it and ended up going to an auto parts store, which of course did not have that exact same OEM screw, just something pretty close. Somehow got it in there after another 20 minutes, and I felt lucky. Even though I ruined the thread for OEM-sized screws. What a poor design On everything else I have, the rotor just slides out.

 

2) Headlights. They are not adjustible height-wise without removal. You have to unbolt the whole freaking thing, adjust the screw, put it back, see where it points, and repeat it if not right. I got a screwdriver in there below the headlight and above the trim and I could almost adjust it but the angle is wrong enough for this to be impossible. Tried different screwdrivers, even the OEM screwdriver which came with Loyale. I started stripping the screw and said, this isn't going to work, I have to remove it *sigh*. Another "feature".

 

Well, that's all I can think at the moment.

 

On the upside, it runs excellently with the "newer" EA82 from a parts car I got. Only 95K miles. Revs very nicely to 3500 or 4000 and no problem driving in it on curvy twisty unpredictable Virginia roads. See lots of deer lately, so I am thinking, if I total it, I am going to be slightly disappointed.

 

And, get a consistent 29 mpg.

I agree with the rotor thing. I have found that using a 1/2" ratchet to turn the crank helps get the screw more accessible. I have also marked the distributor and pulled it out to change the rotor. It was actually easier than fighting the screw blindly.

 

But as for the headlight adjustment it is really quite easy with the right screw driver. I have a14" or so long phillips screwdriver I use for adjusting headlights. I adjusted the ones in the kids '88 3dr last night. They were so far out of adjustment that they were crossed. Just slide the srcew driver under the metal trim above the bumper. It can be a little tight but it will go without damaging anything.

Good point on pulling the distributor - how do you do that? I don't have the FSM for this car.

 

Secondly, I am contemplating if I should get that screwdriver. Probably will. Is there a designation for the phillips head I can use? They are all not all the same size. Downside is, now I have a single-purpose screwdriver which has no use for anything else. Still, removing the headlights is kind of b1tchy. (3 screws are no problem, but the one in the upper corner is not real easy to access even with a 1/4" ratchet).

line up the flywheel to 0 degrees so the rotor points to #1 cyl, it will point to theleft of the screw that holds thew cap on towards theback . remove the 2 bolts that hold the distributor, and pull it out! the rotor will turn slightly as it didsngages the gear, so remember that when putting it back on.

 

you will see the "shadow" of where the bolts fit on the distributor, so you can use that to get your timing lined up

wanna hear a wierd one... the disty in my 85' rx didn't have a screw to hold the rotor on. it was a grooves slip on kind.. the disty in my 86' wagon has the stupid screw.... go figure..

Inspection mirror and a stubby screw driver.

 

Very easy job.

A good magnet on a stick never hurt either. Makes finding that tiny little screw much easier.

In addition, there is also the quality of the rotor to take into account. The hole for the Subaru rotor fits just find. While the aftermarket ones sometime do not line up as well.

Just another note on pulling any distributor.

There is no "magic" in having it at 0 degs or top dead center.

Just do not rotate the engine while the dist. is removed.

The trick I like to use is wrapping a piece of wire and pointing it at the rotor before pulling it.

(picture shows a pipe cleaner being used)

The object is to put the dirstributor back in with the rotor pointing in the same direction.

I also like to mark with a magic marker or "Sharpie" where the bolt hole is lined up as there maybe multiple "shadows" or they maybe hard to discern.

Hope this helps

I use a magnetized stubby philips head. When the little bastard is unscrewed, it sticks to the screwdriver. Works well.

If you have a dead speaker (or any large magnet) around, you can magnetize any screwdriver. Just stick the magnet to it, and pull it the leng of the shaft the way you would if you were sharpening a knife. Do it a dozen times or so, and the screwdriver should be plenty magnetized for awhile. One you drop the screwdriver or bang things, it'll get unmagnetized, but it should be more than enough for removing the rotor screw.

J

any of the screws on the distributor body itself are the same screws for the rotor