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Can this really be done? Will it bolt right on?


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And if you can't find it on there, Here is what he posted.

 

 

Exhaust System

The factory exhaust system fine for it's suited purpose, however it is extremely restricted. The focus of the restriction is the muffler. The exhaust pipe from the engine to the muffler is l 7/8”, which is well-suited for the EA series engines (see Flow Velocity below). The restriction is the muffler itself. Notice that the tailpipe, which is welded to the muffler, is actually smaller than the inlet pipe. The pipes inside the muffler are this small as well. At least this is the case on my 86 4WD wagon. This causes back pressure which robs the engine of efficiency and power. Some backpressure is desirable to control the temperature of the exhaust valves. But too much is not good.

 

I replaced my muffler with a ''turbo muffler'' from a local parts store. Turbo mufflers reduce back pressure, flow freely, and aren't too noisy. The muffler should have a centered inlet and offset outlet. The dimensions should be 3 7/8''x7'' oval. The shell length is 13”, and the overall length is 19”. Try to get one as close to these specs as possible for to fit properly. The inlet and outlets are 2” in diameter. You'll also need two 2'' muffler clamps and one 2 x 24” extension pipe. If your original muffler is shot, you can cut off the muffler from the pipe and reuse the pipe. If not ' get a muffler from a salvage yard and cut the front pipe off of the muffler. The pipe will tit snugly into the muffler after removing the old welds and old muffler inlet. I cut the hanger off of the old muffler and welded it to the extension pipe. You cat: do the same or use a muffler clamp to hold the extension pipe to the hanger. I paid $17.99 for the muffler $3.49 for the extension pipe, and $0.99 each for the clamps. A great deal considering the lowest price for an aftermarket ''stock'' muffler was $100!

 

The result is a noticeable power increase and better fuel economy. The throttle response is ''snappier'' and that dead spot right off idle disappears. The sound is barely louder than stock with most of the sound being very low pitched. You can ''feel' it more than you can actually hear it. It's more noticeable when decelerating, but there's no popping or cracking as associated with ''glass packs'' or straight through mufflers. I find it a pleasant sound. If you're looking for something a little louder you can use a 2 ¼” extension pipe in place of the 2” extension pipe. This pipe will slide over the outlet on the muffler (instead of inside) and will require a 2 1/4'' clamp to hold it in place. The larger pipe has a slight ''megaphone'' effect deepening the exhaust sound and adding a little more volume.

 

A word on performance exhaust systems. These systems replace the exhaust system from the catalytic converter to the tail pipe. Some systems actually replace the entire exhaust system. They also increase the size of the exhaust pipe up to 2 1/2,' These systems are fine if you plan to run the engine above 3500 RPM all the time. They actually reduce horsepower and torque at lower RPMs. The reason:

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Whats being talked about there isn't a factory ea82t muffler. Its meaning a parts store or exhaust shop brand "turbo" muffler. Less backpressure design, and will increase flow and help with the power. They usually cost from 20-40 bucks, and will give you a bit more exhaust sound that what you have now as well(read:more audible boxer note).

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More than likey the ea82t muffler is the exact same as the one you have now.

 

I would think so aswell.

 

 

I cut off the stock muffler on my blue '88 lifted wagon, and replaced it with a Thrush Glasspack. awesome sound, WAAAYYY more power (well...as much as can be expected from that simple of a mod).

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My EA82 coupe has a stock EA82 SPFI y-pipe, stock EA82T midpipe and the axle back rusted out of the original muffler from my RX so I put a cheap ebay $30 melon shooter on it. Sounds throaty but its not too annoying:-p

 

I spent $30 on the muffler (or something like that) and another $10 on piping from Schucks and welded it up.

http://rides.webshots.com/video/3057704240067339125SSoyCq?vhost=rides

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Alright thanx bro, Here's a few ideas i got from AUsubaru.com

 

1.More spark:

Use higher powered coil such as the "MSD Blaster 2" and increase the spark plug gap to 1.1-1.2mm.

Cost: MSD Blaster $120

 

2. 170 degree thermostat. I think i've got 180. See my dad said get the highest one. Because he doesent know anything about Subaru's. He's used to american vehicles.

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Alright thanx bro, Here's a few ideas i got from AUsubaru.com

 

1.More spark:

Use higher powered coil such as the "MSD Blaster 2" and increase the spark plug gap to 1.1-1.2mm.

Cost: MSD Blaster $120

 

2. 170 degree thermostat. I think i've got 180. See my dad said get the highest one. Because he doesent know anything about Subaru's. He's used to american vehicles.

 

 

1. You will see little to no gain from that coil over stock on an SPFI car.

2. You are in one of the coldest areas of the nation. If you go with a lower T-stat, its very possible (and even likely) your car will never even reach operating temp for half the year.. Your dad may not know subarus, but it sounds like he might now a little about living colder climate area.

 

I don't want to discourage learning - but you have a car that is in no way mod friendly. If it ain't broke - don't fix it. If you want something to mod , drive your subaru and enjoy the relative reliability of the SPFI EA82. All the while shopping around for something moddable.

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I'm curious about bigger plug wires. I see that 7mm are recommended, well, if bigger is better, what about 8.5mm? I don't want to buy more than I will have power for, and it looks like I will be going with a MSD coil.

 

I also have a Q about the Fwd ditsy. Does it have the same cap and rotor as the 4wd? and is there any easy way to identify the Fwd vs the 4wd ditsy? I got a "new" one from the JY and honestly don't remember if it was from one or the other.:rolleyes:

 

Thanks in advance! :burnout:

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A $30 "turbo" muffler, and some new piping will give you the best increase for the money you can spend on it. It won't be super loud, not like a glass pack or canister("ricer") muffler. And will give you a nice boxer rumble. IMHO almost anything is better than stock.

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A $30 "turbo" muffler, and some new piping will give you the best increase for the money you can spend on it. It won't be super loud, not like a glass pack or canister("ricer") muffler. And will give you a nice boxer rumble. IMHO almost anything is better than stock.

 

What?! I thought the "Fart Can" (ricer muffler) was worth at LEAST 50hp! I mean they even come with stickers right?:rolleyes::lol::lol::lol:

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I just got a MSD Blaster Coil, 7mm wires (first set of new plug wires, cap & rotor since I got the car almost 2 yrs ago) and some NGK platnum pluggs and I can notice a difference!:burnout:

 

I probubly needed new wires anyway, but here's my results. Going both directions on the highway from missoula to lolo there are several hills, and there is one long hill in particular that usually slows me down quite a bit. Normally I hit the bottom of it at around 70 so I can maintain 60 till the hill crests, now I am able to keep 65. I was able to do this in both directions, one way against the prevailing wind, and one with it behind me. I have also noticed quicker acceleration, higher speeds at lower RPM than before (guess this is added torque?) and I'm hoping it will also make for better gas mileage.:Flame:

 

Oh also forgot to note, I already have a free-flowing exhast, stock pipe size up to where the headers straighten out if I remember correctly,(scavenging purposes) and 2" from there on out (EA81 in my brat btw) with no cat spoiling the party. :cool:

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I put 9mm plug leads on my EA81dc along with new NGK plugs with 1.3mm gap and a Mallory Pro Master coil.... I felt no difference..

Your doomed unless you do some major mods if you want power.

 

My EA81dc will hopefully be getting much higher compression, webers on top of each head, big exhaust of cause, MSD full electronic ignition (I hate disty's.) Then, I hope to get some decent high end power.. Maybe with some upgraded valve springs I might be able to get her running happy at 10K RPM and maybe higher then 140hp... I can only dream right now as I can't afford the carbies and thats where my project on this starts at..

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I put 9mm plug leads on my EA81dc along with new NGK plugs with 1.3mm gap and a Mallory Pro Master coil.... I felt no difference..

Your doomed unless you do some major mods if you want power.

 

My EA81dc will hopefully be getting much higher compression, webers on top of each head, big exhaust of cause, MSD full electronic ignition (I hate disty's.) Then, I hope to get some decent high end power.. Maybe with some upgraded valve springs I might be able to get her running happy at 10K RPM and maybe higher then 140hp... I can only dream right now as I can't afford the carbies and thats where my project on this starts at..

 

Wish I had some junkers I could ship ya to rebuild.. I will keep my eyes peeled, 32/36 DGVs right?

 

For some reason the thought of that little pushrod motor with a pair of those webers dumping down into the cylinders.. it just begs to me to get blown through, and something tells me you are the man to do it :grin:

 

the short stroke and the wide bore are key. That ratio is made for power, and if you could sculpt the right shape combustion chamber into the head, I think you could have an excellent mid compression motor to aspirate into. The cylinder heads are so similar to the L-series Datsun engines (and I have a line that has suggested a STRONG possiblity of FHI being the manufacturer of those cylinder heads for Nissan) that I KNOW I can help provide vital info on CC shape and quench design..

 

dammit, I wanna build a motor.. any motor.. I am sick and tired of "turd-polishing" :-p

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