Hi everyone - I'm new to this forum and Subaru service, and scared myself with an oil change.

 

I decided to start doing some of the servicing of my wife's 2001 Outback VDC H6 wagon (160k), and the first thing I did was change the oil and filter. I subscribed to Alldata and followed the directions, but I'm afraid I may have done it incorrectly.

 

I've performed 2-300 oil changes (I'm 60) on numerous models, none Subaru, and am generally familiar with noises as the engine oil pressure slowly comes up. As the oil pressure slowly rose on the Subaru, a loud clacking started. Really scared me. Once pressure came up full, everything sounded and behaved normally, so I believe this is normal. Am I correct?

 

I'm guessing the noise was caused by lack of pressure in the timing chain tensioners. Is there a proceudure to disable fuel or spark so I could crank the engine for a while before starting? Is there something else I should be doing?

 

I didn't prefill the oil filter, as I usually do, because the filter is mounted horizontally, and I figured there was no point. Next time I will try and get as much oil in filter as possible.

 

Thanks for any and all help.

ALWAYS fill the filter with oil - it takes time for the oil to saturate the dry paper element. If you install it dry then the holes in the paper are large, and don't filter properly - plus it sucks air into the oiling system.

 

GD

Frankly, I don't have any direct experience with the H6. However, if they are anything like the H4, the oil pressure builds very rapidly after an oil change. I suspect that you may have a problem with the engine or your oil changing procedure. I prefill the oil filter myself, but I consider it to be almost an unnecessary affectation in most cases. I doubt that a dry filter alone would normally cause a dry bearing type noise. And you're right, one of the big pluses of the boxer engine should be an extremely short "dry" run time after an oil fill or sitting all night.

2001 Outback VDC H6 wagon (160k)

 

There is a lot of, well, "discussion" as to the service interval/life of the timing chain assemblies on these motors.

The folks at my local dealer are not too free with info, it is costly, and they talk about 140,000k.

We had some discussions here, I'm sure someone will step up with the info, but I can say for certain:

1) you may be discussing a timing chain service with your banker

2) the thing you do not want is for this chain to take flight

 

If it was mine (I do not own, and probably never will own one) I would try to get a grip on the info and come to a decision soon.

2001 Outback VDC H6 wagon (160k)

 

If it was mine (I do not own, and probably never will own one) I would try to get a grip on the info and come to a decision soon.

 

The timing chain assembly makes no noise currently. I was simply speculating that the noise I heard the first start after an oil change was due to no oil and no oil pressure in the chain tensioner. I usually only hear bearing noise during the first start after an oil change.

 

Has anyone here performed an oil and filter change on the H6?

If you disconnect the cam-angle sensor on the front center of the engine, it will not fire up and you can dry crank as long as you like - just don't overheat the starter motor

 

Just don't panic if you do a ECU code readout later and find code 11 - that's the code for a faulty crank angle sensor.

 

I agree that priming the filter is tricky when it's horizontal, but pour some oil in there next time to at least wet the paper element.

I didn't realize that some Subaru engines, e.g. H6, have horizontal filters (fortunately my Forester has a vertical filter).

 

I've had other cars with a horizontal filter, and I curse the engineers who designed such an awful arrangement.

 

Each time that I have done a filter change with a horiz filter, and got covered/splashed with hot dirty oil, I have wanted to drag that design engineer under my car and insist that he change my filter in front of me, so that I could laugh in his (oily) face. Ha! Ha! Ha!

Each time that I have done a filter change with a horiz filter, and got covered/splashed with hot dirty oil, I have wanted to drag that design engineer under my car and insist that he change my filter in front of me, so that I could laugh in his (oily) face. Ha! Ha! Ha!

 

It's a matter of skill - I can change a horizontal filter and never get a drop on me. Personally I don't care what the orientation is as long as it's easy to access.

 

GD

Amazingly, I prefer horizontal OFs because they don't cover themselves in used oil when you start to take them off.

 

To the OP: I've changed the oil and filter a bunch on a Subaru H6, but not the EZ-30. I had an ER-27 in my XT-6. It doesn't have timing chains and has a vertical filter. Nevertheless I did experience quite a loud noise (sort of knocking) at least a couple times on startup of that engine. A couple times was cold start after sitting outside overnight in the late fall with 15W40 oil. At least a time or two otherwise was after an oil change. I can't tell you why it did it because it usually didn't.

 

You can fill the oil filter can or not-- it won't make but half a second's difference to the oiling system. I'm afraid I also disagree with the quick OP rise of a flat engine thing, too. I watched my ER-27's cam through the oil fill hole on startup (after sitting in the garage overnight in the summer) because I was curious as to how long it takes to get full flow to the followers. It's AMAZING how long it takes; 20-30 seconds before it got there. It's easy to tell because there's some oil splash going on immediately on start-up, but if you're patient enough to wait for full flow, there's a big difference in how much splashing is going on once the oil gets there from the pump.

Thanks everyone. Next time I'm going to get as much oil as I can into the filter. If that doesn't work, I'll go for the cam sensor, and I guess that means buying a code reader to clear the fault.

I have changed the oil in the pretty half's VDC many times.

 

(the splash gaurd it a pain)

 

When you fill the filter as I always do, fill it about three times.

 

The filter element absorbs the oil.

 

I start this proceedure before I pull the drain plug.

 

Second fill when I come up for air after removing the splash

pan and drain plug.

 

Third right before I remove /instal the filter.

 

I believe you will be amazed at the "we'd the oil go I just put in there" look to the filter.

 

I have never had any noise on the first start.

 

It is a good idea to change the oil after warming the car

for several reasons, one being

the fast idle period is prevented.

I've changed the oil twice now on my GF's Outback with the EZ30. I did not put any oil in the filter since it's horizontal.

 

To be quite honest, I was surprised at how fast the oil light went out.....it went out just as quick as it normally does. Compare that to the other 4 cyl. subie motors I've changed oil on, even went putting oil in the filter....the oil pressure light on the EZ30 went out faster.....that could be due to the placement of the sensor....but I haven't had any issues/noises.

It's a matter of skill - I can change a horizontal filter and never get a drop on me. Personally I don't care what the orientation is as long as it's easy to access.

GD

Have you ever done a Chrysler slant-six? The filter is vertical, with the opening AT THE BOTTOM!!!!!!

I change oil on tons of EZ30's (and even the new 3.6L in the Tribeca), and occasionally in the lack of oil pressure the timing chain tensioner does make clattering noise for a brief second. As long as the noise goes away pretty quickly and doesn't come back at all except for when you've drained the oil, you're ok.

adding as much oil as the filter will hold while horizontal certainly isn't a bad idea (I like to), but like stated, it only takes a split second to fill it anyways.

when you first start the motor, just don't rev it up...let it idle for about 10 seconds, then check the oil at least 30 seconds (or more) after shut-off, since the boxer layout of the motor takes longer to drain into the sump than a taller motor.

One more thing: forget fishing through the little swing-away access door and hoping all the oil makes it out past the poorly-placed hole for the drainplug... the oil change makes WAY less mess on the inside of the splashguard if you just take it off entirely for the service (probably easier if you've got the car in the air a little bit), plus this gives you a chance to inspect the rest of the motor, which can be hard to see with it on.

You seem like someone who cares about your cars (a rarity in this world), I'm sure you'll do fine...

~Erik~

Have you ever done a Chrysler slant-six? The filter is vertical, with the opening AT THE BOTTOM!!!!!!

 

So put it on the lift updide down

 

Thanks everyone - I feel a lot better, and next time will definitely fill my oil filter. One thing I failed to mention is that I'm in the habit of letting the oil drain for a long time - 45 minutes. That might give the chain tensioners time to drain completely. Just speculating.