They make larger elbows, you just can't get them from home depot. You need to check places like grainger or a shop that makes hydraulic hoses. May not have it as 1 piece, but it can be assembled with threaded fittings for sure. If you can't find anything, I can mitre a piece of pipe and weld it back up.

 

Mark

How bout this... Can you make a 1.25" piping 90 degree elbow? I mean like a SHARP 90 degrees for my radiator hose.

 

I've been trying to figure out what to do about my lower radiator hose, and I can't come up with a good solution. If there were a brass 1.25" elbow I'd buy that immediately, but the largest size they come in is 1"

 

I have found a black plastic elbow, but I'm not sure I should put that in with my radiator hoses.

 

Copper.

 

You need a copper 90 degree elbow.

 

1" with female ends should be 1.25 outside diameter.

 

Like this:

 

 

 

Any good plumbing shop should have them. Big box stores, maybe.

Copper.

 

You need a copper 90 degree elbow.

 

1" with female ends should be 1.25 outside diameter.

 

Like this:

 

 

 

Any good plumbing shop should have them. Big box stores, maybe.

 

yep, I used a piece like this when I put a standard EA82 radiator in my XT6 last year. worked perfectly.

 

Radiator hose doesn't have to hold up to much pressure, so it doesn't really need to be barbed.

Paint is dry on my bits, so I installed them:

 

 

I installed the front valence hopefully permanently now, so here is the front end in all its finished glory. I'll probably have to adjust the grill a little more, and obviously it needs a bumper:

 

 

The first of my two SPAL fans showed up today as well. Its the perfect size (9" fan) and I still have the 7.5" fan for the other side coming. I'll get them installed as soon as the second one arrives:

 

Starting to stain my pants ... keep up the good work!

 

Danny's ff-1 Supply House doesn't have a front bumper?

Not going to use a stock bumper.

Found a simple solution to my radiator hose issue.

 

 

Still needs a little work to get it to fit a little better, but it should work fine.

been watching this on jnc great build man

Wow, lots of progress since I last checked this thread. It's starting to all come together.

 

And I second the http://www.bcae1.com/ website for some weekend reading to get caught up on electrical stuff. I used the calculators doing some bigger sound systems to get the wiring sizes right.

Got my second fan today, gonna figure out how to mount them.

 

While I was waiting, I put some fuel in the car to test for leaks (found two: Fuel sender seal and carb diaphragm, fixed both I hope).

 

Also tried to fire it up... No luck of course. Turns over fine with the starter, but I didn't spend much time trying to figure out the fuel/spark/timing situation. Fuel is getting into the motor though, I checked the carb to see if it was squirting.

Just checked, not getting any spark :-\

ok. not sure where you are at with the wiring of the alt/tach/coil-msd stuff, since you aren't getting spark...

 

here's how my MSD is wired...

 

Heavy Red and Black to battery POS and NEG.

 

Encased Red and Black (outer black shield)

---Red to "+" on coil

---Black to "-" on coil

- nothing else attached to coil

 

Loose Red and Black

---Red to Disty Blk/White

---Black to Disty Yellow

 

Tach Signal Terminal to Yellow w/red bands which was originally a wire that connected to the coil, but no longer does. This does not apply to you since you have the seperated tach... if possible, you need to trace the circuit board to see which path goes to the needle and hook your signal wire to that... (I can't tell enough in the pics...

 

 

Alternator wiring T connector.

---Top of T is IGN powered 12V

---Bottom of T is Dummy Light Signal

This is pretty much how I have the MSD wired:

 

 

Big black and big red straight to the battery terminals.

Small red to blue wire that connects to the ignition (switched source I hope...)

Coil wires attached as the diagram shows, same with the disty wires.

This is pretty much how I have the MSD wired:

 

 

Big black and big red straight to the battery terminals.

Small red to blue wire that connects to the ignition (switched source I hope...)

Coil wires attached as the diagram shows, same with the disty wires.

 

I had the same no-start situation with with mine when I used the magnetic disty wire section.... I don't use that terminal/harness at all...

I can't tell if the disty OR coil are getting any power...

well, the diagram you posted is for a magnetic pickup distributor, and that's not what you are using. it may have magnets in it, but since it's the ea81 electronic disty, the module that converts it is inside, so it's not a magnetic pulse coming out the wire... it will not start if you use the green and violet connector harness...

well, the diagram you posted is for a magnetic pickup distributor, and that's not what you are using. it may have magnets in it, but since it's the ea81 electronic disty, the module that converts it is inside, so it's not a magnetic pulse coming out the wire... it will not start if you use the green and violet connector harness...

Ug... :-\

 

Well if thats the case, where does the second wire go from the distributor?

 

 

Oh, and now my starter isn't doing anything anymore

Ug... :-\

 

Well if thats the case, where does the second wire go from the distributor?

 

 

Oh, and now my starter isn't doing anything anymore

 

should end up like my wiring....

should end up like my wiring....

You listed 3 sets of red and black. The only red and black I have are for the battery.

 

Orange and black for the coil which I have connected correctly.

 

And then there is one white wire left which is in with the red wire that goes to the switched source. And lastly, the green/violet for the magnetic pickup.

Looks like the white wire is the one that goes to the disty from what I can tell...

Looks like the white wire is the one that goes to the disty from what I can tell...

But the disty itself has TWO wires...

Hmmm... IDK. I wish I knew more about this stuff. :-\ I know FI stuff pretty well, but not the carb stuff, so I will do some reading tonight and see if I can learn anything that might help ya.

sorry guys I was beat last night, and slept all night.... I'll see if I can find the other actual MSD diagram for non-magnetic ditributors...

Well, if I am reading this right... The white wire should go to the negative side of the ORIGINAL coil. So that means find the negative wire where the coil should be in the stock wiring, and wire the white wire up to that. This is just reading what you diagram says, so don't know if that will actually work or not with your setup though.

 

Does that make any sense?

After doing some reading and thinking, I believe I am correct, that somehow you need to tell the msd to read the negative side of the stock coil. The msd needs some way to tell when to actually send a spark, and the negative side of the original, stock coil would be the best place to get that. It's the same idea of adding an external tach to a stock car with points, you use the negative side of the coil to get that rpm reading. Same with adding in cruise control, you use the negative side of the coil to get the rpm signal. Basically you need to find the wire the triggers the original, stock coil, and use that wire to trigger the new msd.

 

So I would find that wire and hookup the white wire to it, and see where that gets you.

Edited September 2, 201114 yr by eulogious