Huh that's good news!

i just drilled the plastic holes a little bigger, and use 1/4 20 bolts with nuts and washers on the back, works fine, wish i thaught of the zip tie thing, arrggg, so simple, my brain always overcomplicates things

wish i thaught of the zip tie thing, arrggg, so simple, my brain always overcomplicates things

 

 

Yep i'm the same way!! So your not alone:grin:

When I worked on A10 engines for the USAF, we used Milk of Magnesia for the anti-sieze on the bolts. I still use it on the Subie. Works great, and no harmful side effects like the lead based anti-sieze. I have been running my 87 without covers for almost two years, and no problems. It also stays on the road being my daily driver.

Hahahhaahaha Milk of Magnesia who would have thought..

 

Ok so you'v been cover free for almost two years. And you also live in oklahoma, Theres no snow there, So you don't have tons of salty winter water going into the front of your car.. So nothing rusts right? Maybe you do get snow?? IDK? I mean Texas get's ice storms, But i'm saying the bolts for the tensioners are going to rust/coroad and the belts are exposed to the eliments and they won't last as long. But it's a nice idea:banana:

Well, I guess I'll wake this thread up. Need to get the pass. side belt cover off to change a tensioner, and the bottom inboard bolt is spinning - I assume the insert has broken loose of the inner cover. Anyone got an easy fix, or should I just cut it away and carry on? (It's presently soaking in penetrant overnight) Zipties will be used during re-assembly

Well, I guess I'll wake this thread up. Need to get the pass. side belt cover off to change a tensioner, and the bottom inboard bolt is spinning - I assume the insert has broken loose of the inner cover. Anyone got an easy fix, or should I just cut it away and carry on? (It's presently soaking in penetrant overnight) Zipties will be used during re-assembly

 

Try prying on it with a flathead screwdriver. Thsi was the case the last time I did the belts. The cover also stayed off this time.

once i do the first nose job on any of my subies i leave out the nuts/bolst and replace with zip ties. alot faster and easier to check for leaks and such, rather then breaking the covers when you put them on or take them back off because you set the timing wrong.

When I worked on A10 engines for the USAF, we used Milk of Magnesia for the anti-sieze on the bolts. I still use it on the Subie. Works great, and no harmful side effects like the lead based anti-sieze. I have been running my 87 without covers for almost two years, and no problems. It also stays on the road being my daily driver.

Well thank you for your service. A10's are AWESOME machine. If Milk of Magnesia works on them then I just bought my last jar of anti-sieze!

Mudduck, do you mean to wedge a screwdriver down beside the bolt in order to put pressure on the insert, then try to loosen the bolt? Scoob and screwbaru, I hear you regarding either zips or no covers. First I gotta get the s.o.b. off, so I can replace the rt. side tensioner and o/haul the oil pump. Then , because of lots of sand and salt on the winter roads here, and who knows what on the logging roads, the covers will go back on, prob. with zips. Question remains - break the cover corner off if the bolt won't move??

Break the thing off with reckless abandon.

 

The capture nut is spinning - likely because the cover is cracked anyway. They usually crack when the capture nut spins anyway.

 

A lot of us don't run the EA82 belt covers. The belts are a 20 minute job without the covers and a 2 hour job with. Your call.... I'll trade having a simple, 20 minute job and having to carry a spare set for the aggravation of the covers and the 2 hour job any day. But that's a trade off you have to make for yourself.

 

If mine blow either because it was time or because of road debris.... makes little difference to me as long as the job is easy and takes only 20 minutes. And in tens of thousands of miles I have yet to have an uncovered belt break except when I dropped a shop rag in them with the engine running

 

GD