porcupine73 Posted December 6, 2007 Share Posted December 6, 2007 Hm...it's hard to say from that pic. It's the combination of crank position, each cam position, and, if available, timing belt marks, that makes up the whole config. edit to add: where is your crank angle/position sensor? It seems like it should be visible in that pic.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobyleg1 Posted December 6, 2007 Author Share Posted December 6, 2007 Hm...it's hard to say from that pic. It's the combination of crank position, each cam position, and, if available, timing belt marks, that makes up the whole config. edit to add: where is your crank angle/position sensor? It seems like it should be visible in that pic.... Thats not my motor..its just a pic of what my crank looks like ...lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted December 6, 2007 Share Posted December 6, 2007 Thats not my motor..its just a pic of what my crank looks like ...lol er....hehe ok. Do you have your timing belt covers off right now? If so maybe you could put the crank into the position per the procedure, then snap a pic of (1) the crank sprocket, and (2)the LH cam sprocket) and (3) the RH cam sprocket and post them? Then we can tell if your timing is right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobyleg1 Posted December 6, 2007 Author Share Posted December 6, 2007 I cant take any pics cause my DSLR is gettin repairs done. :-( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted December 6, 2007 Share Posted December 6, 2007 I cant take any pics cause my DSLR is gettin repairs done. :-( Doh sillly electronics! So when you lined up your timing marks on the cam sprockets, did you use the arrows, or the hash marks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobyleg1 Posted December 6, 2007 Author Share Posted December 6, 2007 not the arrows.. I used the hash marks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted December 6, 2007 Share Posted December 6, 2007 I too think it would be wise for you to remove the timing belt covers and take some pics for us. If the valve timing is off that will definately cause your problem. Even a few teeth and it won't run at all. We need pictures of: 1. Crank position. 2. Both cam posistions. Probably close up's of each would do. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobyleg1 Posted December 6, 2007 Author Share Posted December 6, 2007 I too think it would be wise for you to remove the timing belt covers and take some pics for us. If the valve timing is off that will definately cause your problem. Even a few teeth and it won't run at all. We need pictures of: 1. Crank position. 2. Both cam posistions. Probably close up's of each would do. GD I cant get close up's..First of all my camera's are too big to fit between the rad. and the front of the motor.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted December 6, 2007 Share Posted December 6, 2007 I cant get close up's..First of all my camera's are too big to fit between the rad. and the front of the motor.. Once the covers are off, take pics from under the car pointing up. You should be able to get enough to give us an idea. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobyleg1 Posted December 6, 2007 Author Share Posted December 6, 2007 My exhaust is in the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted December 6, 2007 Share Posted December 6, 2007 Hm...your best bet, if you haven't done it yet, is to double check the timing after looking at the relevant parts of the article: 2.2 Liter Single Overhead Cam Timing Belt Replacement If it still looks good, you might want to try a compression test to see what numbers you get. I believe the article tells what values are normal and if one or two teeth off how much it drops. I think it says one tooth off it should still start; two or more no start. Fortunately your engine is non-interference, so even if the timing is way off there is little risk of damage (though if you get backfiring, etc that is not relaly too good). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WAWalker Posted December 6, 2007 Share Posted December 6, 2007 Is my crank in the right place? No. The timing mark you should be using is at ~ 9:00 in that picture. It is the mark on the reluctor (with orange paint) on the back side of the crank sproket that you need to be using. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobyleg1 Posted December 6, 2007 Author Share Posted December 6, 2007 No. The timing mark you should be using is at ~ 9:00 in that picture. It is the mark on the reluctor (with orange paint) on the back side of the crank sproket that you need to be using. I relized that..lol thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobyleg1 Posted December 6, 2007 Author Share Posted December 6, 2007 My SubieROO lives again!! I had the fuel lines mixed up.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted December 6, 2007 Share Posted December 6, 2007 Wow glad you got it sorted! Good find....the fuel lines....hm.....AH HA! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobyleg1 Posted December 7, 2007 Author Share Posted December 7, 2007 So she broke again.. Now she wont let me go past 3500RPMs and when I try to put her in gear..she Dies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted December 7, 2007 Share Posted December 7, 2007 Hm....how does it seem to be idling/running up to 3500 rpm? Normal or rough or... You're sure the fuel lines are correct? Here's the best pics I have of some fuel line hookups... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobyleg1 Posted December 7, 2007 Author Share Posted December 7, 2007 Code 11,12,13,23,33 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted December 7, 2007 Share Posted December 7, 2007 Code 11,12,13,23,33 Alrighty, I'll start looking these up. I assume these are all ECU/engine (not transmission codes....) I'll edit as I look up each one. I'm getting this from alldatadiy.com 11 - A faulty crank angle sensor will set code 11 in the on-board diagnostic system. Refer to the schematic diagram and test the sensor with the diagnostic chart. 12 - A faulty starter switch will set code 12 in the on-board diagnostic system. Refer to the schematic diagram and test the switch with the diagnostic chart. 13 - A faulty cam angle sensor will set code 13 in the on-board diagnostic system. Refer to the schematic diagram and test the sensor with the diagnostic chart. 23 - A faulty air flow sensor will set code 23 in the on-board diagnostic system. Refer to the schematic diagram and test the sensor with the diagnostic chart. If an air flow sensor that is incorrect for the vehicle model is installed, code 49 will set (whether the sensor itself is faulty or not). Automatic transmission models use a hot film type air flow sensor and manual transmission models use a hot wire type. These are not interchangeable. 33 - A faulty vehicle speed sensor will set code 33 in the on-board diagnostic system. Refer to the schematic diagram and test the sensor with the diagnostic chart. With all these codes sounds like some connector/ground/etc type issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobyleg1 Posted December 8, 2007 Author Share Posted December 8, 2007 Hm....how does it seem to be idling/running up to 3500 rpm? Normal or rough or... You're sure the fuel lines are correct? Here's the best pics I have of some fuel line hookups... It runs like ************...excuse my language. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted December 8, 2007 Share Posted December 8, 2007 Ok. You need to look into all those code's she's throwing. Triple check connectors, grounds, even if you're sure the connectors are seated, maybe pull them and make sure no pins got bent or anything. Battery connections are clean and tight? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WAWalker Posted December 8, 2007 Share Posted December 8, 2007 On an OBD I car most of those could be false codes. Try clearing the codes and see what happens. If you have a hard failure then the memory won't clear. I've seen the cam, crank, and starter switch code on many of these cars after a crank but no start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjo Posted December 8, 2007 Share Posted December 8, 2007 i blame a leaking vaccum line... .doesn't matter what's wrong with it really, it's that line under the airbox... always is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobyleg1 Posted December 8, 2007 Author Share Posted December 8, 2007 i blame a leaking vaccum line... .doesn't matter what's wrong with it really, it's that line under the airbox... always is. This is a Pic of my engine bay.. What air Box? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted December 8, 2007 Share Posted December 8, 2007 This is a Pic of my engine bay..[...]So many thoughts go through my mind when looking at that, but the most prominent one is "What's wrong with this picture?". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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