Howdy, I had another thread going but it lost momentum and I have a new line of questions regarding my rear disk brake swap on an EA81.

 

1: I can't remove my left-side drum brake:

A. I removed the axle castle nut & flat washer, but cannot remove the cone washer from the axle; I just bought a brass punch and it did me no good (I went to 5 stores to find one).

B. It was really hard to remove the right-side drum/hub (I had to turn the adjuster screw all the way to release it). I sheared off the adjuster screw on this side with it fully turned in; does anyone have a suggestion of how to remove the drum?

 

2: On the right-side, I have the drum off and the new backing plate bolted up. I'm experiencing a bunch of problems here:

A. The new backing plate contacts the disk rotor slightly.

B. The axle won't turn when I tighten the castle nut down on the rotor.

C. The caliper doesn't seem to fit. The backing plate is spaced (1/2") back from the rotor and I can't seem to figure out how to make the caliper fit. Is there a separate piece (bracket) that I don't know about?

 

Thanks,

- Noah

USE A BIGGER HAMMER or zzz or

 

I had to use a BIG hammer to remove drums before

 

try knocking IN, ON, the drum which may spook the cone washer enough to scare it off it's seat

Howdy, I had another thread going but it lost momentum and I have a new line of questions regarding my rear disk brake swap on an EA81.

 

1: I can't remove my left-side drum brake:

A. I removed the axle castle nut & flat washer, but cannot remove the cone washer from the axle; I just bought a brass punch and it did me no good (I went to 5 stores to find one).

 

- Noah

 

To remove the cone washer, get a nice stout flathead screwdriver. Wedge it into the gap on the cone washer and hammer it in. This spreads the cone and pops it out.

 

To pull that drum off use a 3 jawed puller. You aren't going to break anything you'll still need.

There is some good adviece about removing the drums. The flathead in the washer trick has worked for me in the past, but I've also broken a few drivers doing it (Thank you Craftsman warrenty!). As for the backing plate and rotor, just bend it back out of the way.

So, my biggest question is:

 

Is there a separate bracket that goes between the caliper and the backing plate? I don't seem to be able to make the caliper bolts line up w/ the backing plate's. Plus, when I try to align them it places the brake pads too far inboard of the rotor. (!?!)

(n/m)

ok.there is a lip on your backing plate.like it is rolled for dust and dirt protection.

 

which way is that facing for you.inboard or outboard...those lips should be inboard.

The 'rolled' part 'faces' outboard.

 

Graphically represented: (passenger side)

 

O---(|-

 

differential = 'O'

axle = '----'

backing plate = '('

rotor = '|'

 

 

So, I have it backwards ?!? Thanks.

I got it, thanks for the help. I was confused about the orientation of the backing plate. Rear disk brakes rule.

did you get the drum off the other side?

 

another good way, is to loosen the castle nut a bunch (not even finger tight....but definitely leave it on) and drive the car a bit (slow speeds. up and down the alley/driveway, something like that). the weight of the car will usually pop out the cone washer pretty easily.

Yeah, I got it.

 

The brass punch was expensive and did me no good. The screwdriver trick to pop out the conical spacer worked perfectly. I read somewhere about that driving trick, but that was not an option with one side disassembled.

 

I just bled my brakes and drove around, man these brakes feel great! Time for a highway trip in the wagon!