CV joint is starting to talk and I've never replaced one. Is there a site that would show photo's of this replacement job so even a dumb guy like me can stay out of trouble?

Thanks to all,

Collins

Well this is in the wrong forum to begin with, a 1997 is new gen.

 

You need to repalce the driveshaft. DO NOT BUY A CHEAP SHAFT. Someone will suggest where to get it, besides the dealer. A cheap one can cause driveline vibrations at idle. Replace the entire shaft, its less work then just replacing the CV joint.

 

Its an easy job to do, just rember to use a new springclip and wheel nut (I think).

 

Someone will post pics here i am sure on how to do it.

 

nipper

it's super easy, particularly after the first time. some notes:

 

first - get an MWE or Subaru only axle. do not buy anything from the autoparts store. you would be better served with a used Subaru axle. like nipper said - just replace the entire axle, don't bother replacing the joint or boot.

 

the hardest part of the job is getting the axle nut off, they are very tight. they can break 1/2" socket wrenches. best bet is to have a 3/4" set, high quality air tools, or a torch handy. even a small propane torch will work fine. most are 32mm axle nuts. heat the nut up and it will back off much easier.

 

there are two bolts that hold the bottom of the strut to the hub. the top one is a cambered bolt. you need to mark it and install it in the exact same position since it adjusts your alignment. i just knock a chisel on the edge of it so it puts a divot in the bolt head and strut. then when i put it back together i line those two back up again. very simple, just need to know to do that.

 

you'll need a punch to drive out the axle roll pin, very simple.

 

when reinstalling the axle, take note of the splines in the axle so you know which way to install the holes for the roll pin. so there's two possible ways to install it. you'll notice one hole has a "spline valley" in the middle of it, and one hole has a "spline peak" in the middle of it. take note of the axle and transmission stub it slides onto and it's super easy, you don't have to guess, pull it off, and rotate to get it right.

 

that's it, these are really easy. once the wheel is off you just unbolt the axle nut, two bolts for the strut mount and knock the axle pin out. then it pulls right out, install the new axle, knock roll pin back in - 2 strut bolts - axle nut and done.

I'm pretty sure it's possible to replace the axle without removing the strut bolts. It's been a few years since I've replaced an axle but I remember being able to do one side in 20 minutes without removing the strut bolts.

for me i just undid the pinch bolt for the ball joint and took a pry bar and pryed down on the lower control arm and it came right out.....took a little finessing because of the sway bar endlink still attached....but it was pretty easy.....

Here's some pictures. Note Subaru does not recommend using an impact wrench to remove or install the axle nut. I used an impact on my '00obw, made the job very easy.

 

On my '96, I tried it without the impact, couldn't budge it with a 3/4 breaker bar

 

.....until I added my little helper:

 

It is great if your bolts aren't rusted on. I spent 3 hours one night trying to get an axle nut off, broke all kinds of sockets. Next day after nut was off, finally made it to the camber bolt and it was rusted on so I ended up breaking another 19mm on it. I bought a stupid autozone axle and it clicks when turning sharp, should have bought a Subaru one.

 

I found a chainsaw file is good for knocking the roll pin out if you don't have access to a punch.

Yes 3/4" drive is the minimum really for the axle nut. 1/2" drive may work but may snap if the nut is rusted on. Anything smaller is at high risk of snapping. The blue or yellow torch on the nut for a bit followed by penetrating oil can help ease it.

What size punch is that?

Yes 3/4" drive is the minimum really for the axle nut. 1/2" drive may work but may snap if the nut is rusted on. Anything smaller is at high risk of snapping. The blue or yellow torch on the nut for a bit followed by penetrating oil can help ease it.

 

 

What is the torque rating for the axle nuts? I didn't realize it was so high! Or is it really just the rust you're fighting?

 

Great pics btw, (as usual!)

 

On the note of the pics, how are you holding the axle from moving besides having it in gear? I've always found the the key to braking things loose is to eliminate all flex from the system, as it just eats up the mechanical advantage of the cheater on your breaker bar. A piece of flat bar with a couple of holes drilled for the lug studs is something I've used in the past to get those off.

 

It is great if your bolts aren't rusted on. I spent 3 hours one night trying to get an axle nut off, broke all kinds of sockets. Next day after nut was off, finally made it to the camber bolt and it was rusted on so I ended up breaking another 19mm on it. I bought a stupid autozone axle and it clicks when turning sharp, should have bought a Subaru one.

 

Impact sockets are def. the way to go for this kinda stuff, I haven't broken one yet, but there's always a first!

 

Will-

 

Impact sockets are def. the way to go for this kinda stuff, I haven't broken one yet, but there's always a first!

 

Will-

 

Impact sockets were utilized, that's how bloody tight the sucker was.

Impact sockets were utilized, that's how bloody tight the sucker was.

 

 

Yikes!

What size punch is that?

That is a 7/32" Mayhew pin punch. Do not use a 1/4" pin punch, there is a good chance of getting it stuck.

Impact sockets were utilized, that's how bloody tight the sucker was.

Wow. What size drive were they (ie 1/4" 3/8" 1/2" etc)?

Jeepers, I just caught up with this post. You used everything but a Tomahawk missile!

Wow. What size drive were they (ie 1/4" 3/8" 1/2" etc)?

 

We broke 2, 1/2'' sockets. I ended up taking it to a friend of the family that owns a few semi trucks and using his 1 inch drive to break it loose.

Alright, 1" drive now we're talking!

I can't tell you guys how much this helps. I think I'm ready to hit the garage!

 

Thanks everyone.

for me i just undid the pinch bolt for the ball joint and took a pry bar and pryed down on the lower control arm and it came right out.....took a little finessing because of the sway bar endlink still attached....but it was pretty easy.....

 

 

I used to do them that way,... 'Til I had a knuckle casting break When I reclamped the pinch bolt. Plus it's harder. I think the strut top is the easiest way.

 

I would recommend that the roll pins be the very first, and very last thing removed and reinstalled. Otherwise you risk hyperextending the inboard axle joint while the knuckle is flopin round.