This is an 87 GL 4wd wagon with the overhead cam 1.8 motor.

 

I'm in the midst of pulling my engine to replace a clutch. How hard is it to separate the engine from the transmission? I'm having a bear of a time. I only want to shift it forward to get to the clutch, but the engine and transmission won't separate. I count 2 bolt and two nuts to remove? Is it normal to have the two lower studs bind? That appears to be the trouble. The top pulls free pretty handily but the bottom doesn't like to budge. It also looks like I will need to remove the power steering hoses, but I'm hoping to leave the AC compressor where it's at since there seems to be enough slack in the lines.

 

The motor mounts are clear of the engine cradle.

 

I've pulled my fair share of vintage Oldsmobile Rocket V8s, so I'm not completely new to this, but the little soob is tenacious.

 

Any suggestions are appreciated, thanks.

2 bolts and 2 studs is correct. You just need a bit of leverage. Use a pry bar carefully between the 2 sections.

 

As for the power steering. Unbolt the pulley from the pump, then unbolt the pump from it's bracket. Undo the 2 10mm bolt that secure the line ot the engine, and now fold the whole unit and line out of the way while removing the engine.

Theres 2 more nuts on studs on the bottom. There should be a total of 4.

If you have a jack of some sort, put it under the tranny to lift it a little.

Theres 2 more nuts on studs on the bottom. There should be a total of 4.

 

I think that's the 2 nuts he referred too. I presumed the 2 bolts mentioned included the nuts on their ends.

Yeah, I didnt catch it the first time.

I've had to get pretty agressive with them before. Shake, jerk, cuss, whatever it takes.

I think that's the 2 nuts he referred too. I presumed the 2 bolts mentioned included the nuts on their ends.

 

That sounds right. In short, there's 4 fasteners holding the engine to the transmission?

 

I've tried wiggling the tranny up and down with a jack, I still have trouble. I don't like prying too hard on the cast aluminum, maybe I need to give it a little more grunt. I'll remove the power steering pump, that may help some.

 

Thanks.

I hesitate to use a hammer/pry bar to get it started. In the past I've wrapped marine rope or a tow strap around the front of the engine, then lift the whole engine up and let it bounce down. Another guy helping you yank it from side to side works too. A few hard jolts like that are usually enough to break the seal. Then a pry bar or a big screwdriver can get you the rest of the way.

Did you remove the exhaust from the heads?

I just had this prob on an EJ, today as a matter of fact. I hammered in a brass putty knife to get it started, then progressively larger screwdrivers, until I could get a tire iron in & pry them apart. In my case, the dowel pins had rusted.

I've had trouble with this too, mine was rusted pretty badly and it took me and my dad going insane and jerking the engine as hard as we could to get it loose. Even then it took everything we had and 2-3 hours of repetative insanity. The cast aluminum should be okay as long as you don't hit it with a sledge like I did. I broke a pry-bar clean in 2 without doing a whole lot of damage to the aluminum bell housing, so you should be okay with getting pretty agressive with it.

Take a punch and smack the two alignment dowels in the bellhousing. They corrode and hold it all together.

I have a 1/8 inch crack between the engine and transmission at the top, and just a tiny little bit at the bottom. (The exhaust is removed from the car, so it's not in the way.) I think I have it started, I just expected things to slide apart more smoothly once the seal is broken. I'm used to popping the motor free and hauling away.

 

Thanks.

I have a 1/8 inch crack between the engine and transmission at the top, and just a tiny little bit at the bottom. (The exhaust is removed from the car, so it's not in the way.) I think I have it started, I just expected things to slide apart more smoothly once the seal is broken. I'm used to popping the motor free and hauling away.

 

Thanks.

 

You're probably used to Cast iron blocks.

 

Alloy block + steel dowels = corroded dowels

That sounds right. In short, there's 4 fasteners holding the engine to the transmission?

 

I've tried wiggling the tranny up and down with a jack, I still have trouble. I don't like prying too hard on the cast aluminum, maybe I need to give it a little more grunt. I'll remove the power steering pump, that may help some.

 

Thanks.

 

I would say five counting the starter bolts.

I would say five counting the starter bolts.

 

The lower starter bolt is actually a stud, mounted to the trans bellhouing. It does not connect to the engine at all.

 

The starter and that lower nut DO NOT need to be removed. Starter stay bolted in place to the trans by the lower stud.

Did you disconnect the engine mounts?

i suggest beer.

i suggest lots of beer.

 

Fixed your post

Fixed your post

The engine was out by Saturday afternoon. It just needed more persuasion. Installed the clutch kit, and moved on to timing belts, cam seals, tensioners and an idler. Waiting for the last of the parts to come in tomorrow.

 

Thanks for the helpful suggestions.