1997 Impreza OBS automatic.

 

Fuses are good. And the rear squirter works.

 

The rear wiper doesn't work - but the motor runs if i give it power directly.

When i turn it on there's no power at the plug on the motor, as far as i can tell.

 

The rear defrost doesn't work.

 

How do i test these things further?

I'd suspect the wires in the hatch itself. Maybe pull back the corrugated tube & give them a look-see

start with the grounds. There is also a wiper relay, dont knwo where on the imprezza, on a legacy its buried in the left rear quarter panel.

 

nipper

+1 for crazyhorse001

 

Had problems with my rear wiper. First, it stopped "parking". Then stopped working altogether. Finally, the high mounted stop light quit working. Checked under the boot on the right side of the hatch and 6 or 7 of the wires looked like they were cut with a pair of wire cutters. Soldered them back together and everything works again. Also had to fix the washer tubing at the left side of the hatch and the squirter works now too.

BTW, there are about 12 wires running through that boot, including the defroster wires.

Checked under the boot

you mean the boot where the wires pass from body to hatch - close to the hinges at the top?

 

the boots and wires contained in them look good.

 

a connector for the defrost was slightly melted and corroded...but didn't "look" like it was a broken circuit. i pulled it apart anyway, but there's no power to it when i turn the defrost on. i'll leave it disconnected until i figure the wiper out.

 

i should be able to check for continuity between parts and the wiring harness - the end connectors are easily accessible behind the passengers side rear tail light.

you mean the boot where the wires pass from body to hatch - close to the hinges at the top?

That's right, next to the hinge. It's been a little while, but I believe the wires were wrapped in tape and when they were unwrapped 6 or 7 wires were broken all in a line. On my car ('96 Impreza Outback) the wires flex quite sharply next to the hinge and it was just a fatigue issue over time.

 

You've got the wiring harness location right and I think there were only 2 wires of the same color going into the hatch so checking for continuity should be easy. That's how I first found the problem.

thanks guys - you were on it. looked at it further and sure enough 3 wires were cut right in half at that boot covered hinge joint.

 

now....how do i get enough wire to work with to replace it!? should i try and solder wire to wire here and then tape really good?

 

for anyone in the future, some notes:

 

there are three connectors in the plate covered access hole behind the rear passengers side tail light. it's very easy to check continuity since access to everything is simple. remove plate for access to those connectors and the cover over the wiper motor is really easy to remove - just some tabs to pop out. this gives access to the other connectors (except the brake light i suppose - i didn't have to check that).

 

the 4 pronged connector is for the wiper motor. all the wire colors match up except one is black at the motor and green/black in the access hole (or the other way around?).

 

the 2 pronged connector is for the defrost.

 

and i didn't check but i assume the 3 prong connector is for the brake lights.

harbor freight - shrink sleeve. Splice in a bit of wire, then cover the splices with some shrink and heat it with a heat gun. Shrinks right down - of course, you need to remember to put on the sleeve before you solder the wires.

 

IF YOU USE CRIMP SPLICES, KEEP THEM OUT OF THE FLEX AREA!! THEY DON'T BEND MUCH

 

I've seen some phone "cover" that wraps around the wire bundle and prevents chafing. You might also consider wire with as many strands as you can get for the gage. (more flexible) or go up a gage if you have space

I recommend you make your splices in an area away from where the flexing takes place. Add enough wire to do that. If you can get some pieces of some teflon aircraft wire to make the splice that should work well.

I need help!

 

I had the exact problem described here, wires were cut at the point they enter the body from the hatch. I fixed that with splices. NOW....I keep ruining the brake light switch (the one at the brake pedal). I have double checked all my splices and they are all good and solid. Any one have any ideas why the brake switch keeps going bad?? I've been through 2 so far and Its driving me nuts. No fuses are blowing

I need help!

 

I had the exact problem described here, wires were cut at the point they enter the body from the hatch. I fixed that with splices. NOW....I keep ruining the brake light switch (the one at the brake pedal). I have double checked all my splices and they are all good and solid. Any one have any ideas why the brake switch keeps going bad?? I've been through 2 so far and Its driving me nuts. No fuses are blowing

 

Define "going bad"

 

If your not blowing fuses, its not a short.

 

And if the wiper isnt coming on when you hit the brakes, you didnt wire anything wrong.

 

Where have you been buying brake switches?

going bad by causing the brake lights to be constant on. The first one was very warm when I replaced it. I got them at autozone. Unlikely anything was wired wrong since every wire was a unique color and everything works just fine except I keep having the brake light switch fail (well 2 times anyway). It cant be just a coincidence can it??

going bad by causing the brake lights to be constant on. The first one was very warm when I replaced it. I got them at autozone. Unlikely anything was wired wrong since every wire was a unique color and everything works just fine except I keep having the brake light switch fail (well 2 times anyway). It cant be just a coincidence can it??

 

Well next thing to do is to cough up the cash and get one from subaru. But before you do that take the bulbs out of the third brake light. Thats the only one that passes through the tailgate.

 

I am at a bit of a loss for this since it isnt in my driveway. You can use a meter to see how much current the the third light is drawing, and to see if its shorted to ground.

 

nipper

going bad by causing the brake lights to be constant on.[...]

From your description, the switch contacts are eventually "welding" together. That would indicate either excessive current is passing through the switch, or the switch isn't capable of handling the "normal" current.

 

If the brake light bulbs are all the correct ones, and you're certain that the splices are good (no intermittent shorts), then I'd agree with Nipper and suggest getting an original switch from Subaru, rather than a replacement from AutoZone.

often you're even better off with a used subaru unit than aftermarket. these fail so rarely that i'd just get a used one rather than aftermarket or new from $ubaru. could be other things but i'm with these guys, i'd want a Subaru unit in there before digging into other stuff.

It sounds like you may have crossed the 3rd brake light with the rear defrost. Defrosters carry a lot of current, that's how they work.